Flooring a john boat - Help!

Discussion in 'Boat Tips' started by Salmonid, Jun 21, 2006.

  1. Salmonid

    Salmonid New Member

    Messages:
    1,833
    State:
    SW Ohio
    Ok, I am looking at putting a floor into the new to me 14' flat bottomed John boat and have gotten a few conflicting ideas, just looking for opinions here.
    Some folks told me to just use 1/2" treated plywood since marine grade wood is soooo expensive and as Im finding out, not available anywhere close by ( only found 1 place about 70 miles away in Cincinnatti so far)
    Others say to use 3/4" and no less, but ribs are 12" apart ( guessing here) and another idea I had was to carpet it but others told me to use the non slip marine pait over the plywood and it would be fine,

    Questions are:
    should I use treated lumber or marine grade plywood?
    is 1/2" enough or should I go to the 3/4"
    Paint or carpet for the floor?

    Oh yeah, cost and effort should be considered here...because Im lazy:roll_eyes:

    Now Im confused.. any thoughts, ideas, opinions, whatever, let em fly, Im all ears...:lol:

    BTW, a special thanks go out to Dinkbuster for coming over last night and rewiring the lights on the trailer. I really appreciate it!! Hey guys help me out with some rep points for Dink, he has helped me out many times and the system wont allow me to keep sending points his way when I want to.

    Salmonid
     
  2. katcatchingfool

    katcatchingfool New Member

    Messages:
    2,032
    State:
    illinois
    i just put a floor in my boat i used 3/4 inch treated plywood let it set out in the sun and dry out if its still green once its dried out cut it out to fit the bottom of your boat before you screw it down get about a gallon of fiberglass resien apply with a paint brush and do about 3 coats both sides after it dries use self tapping stainless steel screws to attach to the ribes of the boat good luck hope this helps

    ps its still not all that cheap to do it this way but it should last a very long time
     

  3. Salmonid

    Salmonid New Member

    Messages:
    1,833
    State:
    SW Ohio
    Thanks, that s a good idea, so that reseals the wood so it wont absorb water right? now did you carpet or paint over the top or just leave it as the resin for the flooring?
    Along those same lines, what about deck sealer like the thompsons stuff?? just thinking outside the box here:wink:

    Salmonid
     
  4. Big Eli

    Big Eli New Member

    Messages:
    185
    State:
    Ohio, Clifton
    I have a friend that has a house boat at Cumberland and on his floating dock he uses "Bear" sealent. All the guys in the Sumerset boat club swear by it. They have a lot of $ invested in there docks and they want them to last!
     
  5. katcatchingfool

    katcatchingfool New Member

    Messages:
    2,032
    State:
    illinois
    trust me there isnt a water treatment on the market that will work better than the fiberglass resien and it will last forever i mean forever and salmon yes i did carpet over the resien but i did think about putting that rino tough bed liner on it but my wife and kids like to go barefooted and i thought it might get a little hot
     
  6. katcatchingfool

    katcatchingfool New Member

    Messages:
    2,032
    State:
    illinois
    hey you should brobably for sure cover it with something after you fiberglass it becomes like clear glass and when wet it could get verry slick
     
  7. PeZ

    PeZ New Member

    Messages:
    757
    State:
    Oklahoma
    I built a deck in the front of my v bottom 15 ft aluminium last year I used 3/4 non treated plywood and coated the deck with resin then carpet over that. my question is why would u deck the bottom of the boat i find it easier to clean the aluminuim bottom.
     
  8. PeZ

    PeZ New Member

    Messages:
    757
    State:
    Oklahoma
    You can also mix sand with the resin to make it like a sand paper finish Ive seen that too
     
  9. shortbus

    shortbus New Member

    Messages:
    459
    State:
    indiana
    I use 3/16 alluminum plate on the boats I do. You can cut it with a circular saw with a fine tooth blade but wear eye,ear and hand protection. I pop rivet the plate down and glue the carpet on. No rot,sealer and less wieght.
     
  10. paleocaver

    paleocaver New Member

    Messages:
    391
    State:
    USA
    Many reasons why I did it.

    Mine had ribs that stick up about 2" and is hazardous for my 86 year-old grandmother and 66 year old mother to walk around in. Also easier for my son to get around in.

    Quiter when you drop a 3 oz. bank sinker on carpeted wood than bare aluminum.

    Helped even the load when fishing alone. Had one heck of a bow rise prior to installing the floor.

    Also cooler on the feet.
     
  11. metalfisher

    metalfisher New Member

    Messages:
    188
    State:
    Arkansas
    Marine plywood is exterior grade plywood gauranteed not to have any "voids" in it. For flooring it wood be fine.

    Some say that the added weight is larger than using aluminum sheeting and I have to agree. But, I can get ply wood at several stores.

    Don't know where to fine a 4' x 8' sheet of .100" aluminum.

    Robert
     
  12. Arkie55

    Arkie55 New Member

    Messages:
    669
    State:
    Mississippi
    Over the last 30 years or so I have decked several different boats. I have used 1/2" exterior plywood and 3/4 inch exterior plywood. My thoughts?

    If installing a raised casting deck that is not supported every 18" or so, use 3/4 inch.

    Installing on the floor over the ribs for support 1/2 is more than enough. I have always carpeted mine with grass type carpet.

    Now, my fishing partern has his 15' jon floored with 1/2" plywood and painted with deck paint in light grey. I know it's been down for five years and still in real good condition. The paint makes it cool, easy to clean and doesn't trap water between the carpet and wood. My next floor job will be with 1/2" exeterior or maybe even 7/16". I still like the grass carpet and will probably opt for that over paint.
     
  13. davesoutfishing

    davesoutfishing New Member

    Messages:
    479
    State:
    Menominee Michigan
    I used 3/8 treated for my floor one other thing I did was bought some 2 inch foam board and cut them to fit inbetween the ribs of the floor add to the floatation of the boat and also deadens alot of sound
     
  14. Trapper-steve

    Trapper-steve New Member

    Messages:
    1,095
    State:
    Bicknell, IN
    Witch ever way you go just keep in mind the over all weight of every thing in boat it can sneak up on you.
    Good luck with your new boat.:smile2:
     
  15. shortshank

    shortshank New Member

    Messages:
    389
    State:
    Oregon
    I put 3/4 inch down on my little john and I also put spray foam/sealer down first. The sealer is pretty cheap, about a buck and a quarter a can and it was worth every penny. No squeaks anywhere. I also put in-door out-door carpet down with 3/4in. staples with my hammer tacker. I just take the garden hose and wash the boat out....no problems in over 15yrs. The plywood was treated and sealed before I put it down. The weight vs the life of your work sure made my choice easy. The guys might be on to something with that aluminum if you can get it.
    My boat is extra wide & deep, you can get up and walk around without tipping and the carpet makes it nice JMO.
    Don
     
  16. Salmonid

    Salmonid New Member

    Messages:
    1,833
    State:
    SW Ohio
    Thanks guys, lots more good info here, my jon boat is extra wide and extra deep so im not too concerned about the weight but it is something to keep in the back of my mind, its got a 35 Johnson on it so there is plenty of power to push it around there.
    If all goes well this afternoon and this guy buys my other boat, then Ill have the funds to get this done in the next week or two :wink: otherwise Ill not be floorring until the winter most likely.

    Thanks again my brothers!
    Salmonid
     
  17. fishinpals

    fishinpals New Member

    Messages:
    547
    State:
    Virginia, Illinois
    Good luck on your project. Thinking of doing it as well on an old john boat.
     
  18. Fishgeek

    Fishgeek Active Member

    Messages:
    1,149
    State:
    Indiana
    Our work boats are 16' john boats. We put down 1/2" treated plywood (not marine grade...$$$) and then painted them with gray non-slip paint as someone else suggested. We notched the edges to fit around the ribs going up the sides & therefore were able to get the floor as close to the sides as possible. These floors have stood-up very well. I bet the floors in my two boats are close to 10 years old (definately over 5 years old) and are still in really good shape. OUr boats take alot more abuse than the average fisherman's boat. Our net boats are outside 24/7 356 days/year and uncovered. In the summer they're constantly soaked having nets pulled in & out and fish being processed. A couple hundred pounds of nets, anchors bounced off the floor constantly, they get abused and still hold up great. Easy to clean (like that ever happens) & cheap to make.

    BUT, carpet sure would be nice in a fishing boat for those long nights inbetween bites...ZZZZZZZZZZZZ.......
     
  19. Iowa_Josh

    Iowa_Josh New Member

    Messages:
    1,463
    State:
    Central Iowa
    Sometimes this stuff makes a guy curious. I'm not sure they are all facts 100% but maybe you guys know more here.

    Aluminum sheet at some random place online. 1/8" was 56.6 pounds per 4x8 sheet and over $200

    1/2" ply they say is 45.44 pounds per 4x8 sheet.

    3/8" ply 33.92 pounds per 4x8 sheet

    3/4" ply 68.16 pounds per 4x8 sheet
     
  20. laidbck111

    laidbck111 New Member

    one thing I would like to add to plywood flooring is when I floored my boat I also placed styrofoam between the ribs why I don't know but it seems to help muffel the sounds of dropped anything when it hits the floor. By the way the styrofoam was 2" thick