Fixing leaky rivets?

Discussion in 'Boat Tips' started by dinkbuster1, Jun 6, 2007.

  1. dinkbuster1

    dinkbuster1 New Member

    Messages:
    2,272
    State:
    Ohio
    i recently acquired a 35 year old aluminum canoe that has a couple VERY minor leaks at the rivets. how hard is it to replace the rivets? also, the marina where i got the sticker for it today tried to sell me this "stuff" that comes in two tubes that you mix together that will supposedly seal the leaks and is permanent. apparently you can sand it, drill through it, and even tap threads into it once its dried. any suggestions?
     
  2. Katmandeux

    Katmandeux New Member

    Messages:
    1,618
    State:
    Checotah, Oklahoma
    If the rivets are still there, no need to replace them.

    Use a dolly or shop hammer to buck the rivets in the inside, and tap the outside with a ball peen hammer...it shouldn't take much.

    The "stuff" they sold you sounds like Marine-Tex, or something like it. I've used it on fiberglass, and it's awesome, but not-so-awesome on aluminum.

    Plastic roofing cement works as well as anything for small leaks on small, non-planing boats. It's cheap, wicked sticky, and stays where you put it.
     

  3. CATBUSTER

    CATBUSTER New Member

    Messages:
    27
    State:
    GEORGIA
    I PUT MY JON BOAT ON SAW HORSE'S AND PUT ABOUT 3" OF WATER IN IT THEN LOOKED FOR LEAKS FROM THE BOTTOM SIDE.......MAKES FINDING THEM EASY
     
  4. riverdawg-1

    riverdawg-1 New Member

    Messages:
    738
    State:
    salem, va
    I have a jon boat that is also about 30 some years old. It started to leak just a little, I fixed it for 99 cents. turn it upside down and put a drop or 2 of super glue on each rivet. I did this 2 years ago and it still doesn't leak.
    chip
     
  5. jim

    jim New Member

    Messages:
    2,579
    State:
    Jacksonville NC
    The best way to fix a leaking rivet is to first determine precisely which rivet is leaking.Then carefully locate a point exactly opposite of this rivet.Laser pointers are useful for this.When you have the exact spot marked ,drill a small hole that will let out exactly as much water as is leaking in.This has never failed me!!!!!:big_smile::lol::smile2::eek:oooh::cool2::wink:Of course I have a fiberglass boat so what do I know?????
     
  6. schuetz

    schuetz New Member

    Messages:
    19
    State:
    kansas
    i have a 35 year old 16' lowe flat bottom. i completley removed the middle seat to make more room. i replaced all the rivets that i drilled out with an air hammer/chisel, rivets and a hammer. ask around wherever you buy pneumatic tools and they should be able to tell you about a rivet kit for the air hammer. you can not tell the difference between mine and the factory ones honestly. sounds like too much trouble? jb weld makes a product called waterweld. worth its weight in gold. i hooked up a stainless steel transducer bracket to my aluminum transom and you couldnt rip it off if you had to. patched every hole i had in my 12' aluminum boat, too.
     
  7. beeheck

    beeheck New Member

    Messages:
    631
    State:
    Iowa / Missouri
  8. slipbobber

    slipbobber New Member

    Messages:
    240
    State:
    Kentucky
    this is what i did to my old jon boat years ago. Rhino lining. just paint it on the inside. if it works for truck beds why not your boat?