Extra (ADD-ON) seat pedestal placement

Discussion in 'Boat Modification Journal' started by SkipEye, Feb 27, 2008.

  1. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl
    Folks, I know more than a few of you have fabbed up stiffener plates and added extra seat pedestal bases to your Big Jons. You know, somewhere other than the one fore and one aft standard "Ba$$-Fisherman style" locations.

    I fish the river mostly and am considering one on each side over the livewell area. Am concerned about them being in the way though when fighting river-fish off the back of the boat.

    I am also considering forward on the floor, one each side, like Big Dave has pictured in his current boat Mod thread. Also worried about floor space issues there. With coolers, buckets, tackle boxes, kids etc.....

    I am working with a 3 degree hull, 2072 SeaArk and have a big rear deck area, plus a ton of room on the floor too.

    Kinda nervous about drilling a hole in the floor panels without knowing how much clearance is under there to accomodate the pin?????

    What have others done?

    Post pics if you can and tell me the pros and cons of your location after you used it in the real world.

    Guess I could just put 4 additional pedestal bases in and move them where and when I want to!:smile2::smile2::smile2:
     
  2. Big Dav

    Big Dav New Member

    Messages:
    1,016
    State:
    Southwest
    What I did to check for depth for the pedestal was drill a hole 3/16 (size for a pop rivet. Then used a metal wire close hanger to push through the flotation foam and find the depth. It it doesn't have the depth the worse that happens is you have an out of place pop rivet. Better than a 3 inch hole to figure out how to plug. I plain on using the front deck for coolers and such. I will be installing several pad eyes in different locations to secure things into place while running. Where i put my seat just adds a couple of small steps to being at the rod rack in the back when a fish hits. If there is a take down with circle hooks i figure the fish isn't going anywhere. i placed my seat bases for more that just river style fishing out the back. I can use them for fishing all around the boat. That is what I do most of the time since i fish lakes more than anything. Plus i also like to get a bunch of fillets when the crappie are bitting. More of a multi purpose seating position that the front and rear deck "bass boat" style you mentioned.
    You have seen the pics and know the story. Good luck with figuring out where to place your new seat locations. I fought with that choice for several days before i placed mine.:eek:oooh:

    Thanks
    David
     

  3. smhmc6

    smhmc6 Member

    Messages:
    744
    State:
    Kansas
    I've been considering doing the same thing. I'm concerned about the clearance between the floor and hull too. Actually, I'm not so much concerned, I'm pretty certain that I don't have the clearance required. What kind of things can be done if you don't have the clearance... any body tried to "pad it up?" What I mean is to put a block between the base and the floor to give it a few inches. That is what I'm thinking about doing, but I'm concerned that it would get in the way when walking around. Might trip on it when its dark or something. How have others remedied this problem?
     
  4. smhmc6

    smhmc6 Member

    Messages:
    744
    State:
    Kansas
    I just had another thought, Darryl. I was looking online tonight and ran across some bases that are above the floor so that you don't have to drill a hole in the floor for the pedestal to fit in. That does present the problem of being above the floor and a possible tripping hazard. It seems to me that you can either have it flush with the deck and have to drill a hole, or no hole but its in the way of walking or coolers like you said.
     
  5. ShilohRed

    ShilohRed New Member

    Messages:
    4,339
    State:
    West Tn
    I Ordered my War-Eagle with 6 seat bases. Three on the front and three on the back deck.
    It has plenty of room under them. As I have storage under there.
    Can you see how the company did the one there now?
    If it were me, Just get in touch with Sea-Ark. I bet they will tell you were would be the best spot to mount them. And how much room would be under them.
    I can take a shot of the way mine is set up if that will help out?
    Also Ordered the New Lund it has 5 seat bases on the front deck and three in the floor.:big_smile:For they its better to just order the boat with the extras that way if they tear out its the company's fault.
    Pete
     
  6. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl
    Hey Pete, pics would be cool!:big_smile:
     
  7. Big Sam

    Big Sam Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,385
    State:
    Booneville AR
    Name:
    Sam
    Well since your allergic to cordless drills:eek:oooh::tounge_out::smile2: Looks like ya need to sit pearced on the ice-chest:wink: Can't believe that 2072 dont have extra slots for pedistals....Mine does but i dont use them:smile2::eek:oooh::tounge_out: Hows the fishing there in OKC?:wink:
     
  8. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl
    Well, it has two, in the bass fishing style fore and aft but that doesn't do much for my style of fishing.
     
  9. Todd Strong

    Todd Strong Active Member

    Messages:
    1,023
    State:
    Cambridge, Ne
    Darryl, My experience you need to add a 12"x12" aluminum plate at around .25 thickness then you can add your seat ballister. The floor in some of these boat are not very thick and chances of cracking the floor, or mount pull out is possible. Try not to drill were your cross runner are either.
     
  10. Big Dav

    Big Dav New Member

    Messages:
    1,016
    State:
    Southwest
    Darryl,
    One thing about adding a plate. Check how far your boats ribs area apart. Mine were about 16 inches on center, so I made my tread plate approx 16 x 16 inches and anchored it into the boats ribs for added strength. Then put my seat pedestal in the center of the thread plate. I would bet you boats floor is thicker that what i was dealing with so you may not need it to spread out the load. You may need it like hunter said for depth, not sure.What type of seat bases are you going to use? 3/4" pin, 1.77" or larger? You have valid concerns about anything you mount in the floor being in the way. I would hate to think I hat a "Large hump" seat base int he floor to watch out for every time I crossed it. I would get use to it over time but what about guest on the boat?
    Plus I have kids on my boat and wanted to limit sharp corners and possible objects to trip over, or at least as much as possible.:big_smile:
     
  11. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl
    Using 3/4" pin bases with the threaded bottoms. I want the bases as flush as possible. Was tearing into my console to fix a dropped baitwell and it appears that I will probably have the clearance I need, it'll be close though. Gonna have to drill that 'test' hole and get an accurate depth.
     
  12. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl

    The floor is .125 treadplate. I am making the stiffener out of .125 plate also. That ought to do it. The potential floor location is between two ribs 16" on center so that ought to beef it up plenty in my opinion. The 'factory' stiffeners you can buy are .125, but they cost like $175.00:eek:oooh:, I am making my own!:wink:
     
  13. Big Dav

    Big Dav New Member

    Messages:
    1,016
    State:
    Southwest
    :crazy::eek:oooh::crazy::eek:oooh:

    My God, what are they thinking. I bought a 16" x 32" piece of .125 aluminum thread plate for mine and it cost me a whole $35 for the piece.:crazy: I know what business I need to start.
    Was that each or for a set? Really doesn't matter, it's robbery either way.:angry:
    Sounds like Lowe when they asked me almost $300 for a gallon of factory paint. :crazy: Called the the other day for some small plastic 3M dual lock fasteners that help secure the lids down. They are about the size of a quarter. They asked me $3 each for them and I wanted 16 of them. That is $48 to replace there cheesy design in the first place. I called the factory and they replaced them under warranty at no cost. Dealer was just looking for me to buy his lunch.:angry::smile2:
     
  14. Seth

    Seth Active Member

    Messages:
    1,807
    State:
    Owensville, MO
    What about buying some bases that situp but don't require a hole in the floor and installing those pop nuts into the floor? You can just unscrew the bases whenever you want so you don't have to worry about tripping over bases, but you also don't have to drill a big hole in the floor if you are worried about depth?

    Just an idea and I may be way out in left field. :smile2:
     
  15. Wiskerstickerr

    Wiskerstickerr New Member

    Messages:
    67
    State:
    North Caro
    I ordered my River Cat with extra bases mounted in the floor. I will try to take some pictures today and post them. I am also going to put in 2 more one on each side of my livewell lid for pasengers to sit on while running. Right now my pasengers have to sit on metal which can be pretty rough in choppy water while running 40 mph. SeaArk uses .125 so it is real sturdy. That is one reason that turned me to SeaArk.