Evinrude 25 "gear rod"

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by birddog, Mar 30, 2006.

  1. birddog

    birddog New Member

    Messages:
    4
    State:
    Texas
    Hey guys,
    I have a "Brand new to me" 1971 Evinrude 25 hp Sportster. I cleaned the carb, replaced the plugs, and I also ran sea foam through it and let it set over night. I then ran a good, clean mix of gas/oil into it. At this point it will start and run only for a short time(30-45 secs) before it cuts out. It will run lomger if I really put the throttle to it, but eventually dies. My air valve is open on my gas tank and it sounds like it is trying to stay running. I know it stilll needs some fine tuning and I think it will stay running. Any ideas?
    Now for my main problem, I replaced the impeller and as I reassembled the unit, somehow I turned the gear rod and now it will not switch into reverse without turning the propeller 1/4 turn. I hope this makes sense to someone. I attached the water line correctly and everthying else. I do not have a book on this motor, yet. Is there a way to align the gear rod so it will shift into gear? Any help and /or ideas will be greatly appreciated.
    By the way, I am putting this onto an aluminum 13.5' starcraft seafarer. I am in the process of redoing everything to it. I wish I had taken before pictures.
     
  2. Nobody Special

    Nobody Special New Member

    Messages:
    614
    State:
    TN
    I'm not an expert, but it's been my experience that a lot of motors don't want to shift between forward and reverse without moving the prop a little when the motor isn't running. Now if it won't shift when the motor is running, that may be a problem.
     

  3. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    Without being there, it sounds like you need to clean the carb again. You seem to be running on choked up gas and not gas metered through the carb.

    Explain in detail what you did to clean the carb and I'll point out what you might not have done right.

    I would like to see your reply before anyone other than Bubba jumps in here.
     
  4. birddog

    birddog New Member

    Messages:
    4
    State:
    Texas
    Thank You for your replys.

    I completely removed the carb from the motor. I disassembled the carb and removed all the parts. I cleaned each part with carb cleaner and also cleaned out any openings. I also used high pressure air to blow out all the pieces. I am sorry, I do not know the correct terms for all the parts, but I am learning. The needle that "floats" freely was completely gunked and would not slide. The "rich and lean" needle was fairly clean. The gasket was still in very good shape. After cleaning out every part I reassembled and attached it to the motor. Before all of this I could not get the motor to start without spraying fluid into the carb. After the cleaning it would start and run for 30-45 secs on fuel alone, and usually on first or second pull. It will then die off if you do not keep throttling it. Also, I tried pressing the fuel bulb to try and force the fuel into it but this did not help. I thought it might be dying out from lack of fuel. Again, thanks in advance.
     
  5. birddog

    birddog New Member

    Messages:
    4
    State:
    Texas
    I also left out that this is probably the perfect example of why we should all own the manual for our motors. I was not expecting to buy a boat but came across one of those "too good to pass up" deals, and spent just enough $$$ on the main things, trailor maintenance and getting the boat water ready, that I am now doing all I can without spending any money. And here we are now.
     
  6. TIGER44

    TIGER44 New Member

    Messages:
    25
    State:
    MANSFIELD. TEXAS
    I Have A 1964 Jhonson That Did That And I Changed The Fuel Pump, The Bulb And The Filter Scren
     
  7. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    In the bowl is the main jet. It has to be absolutely clean.

    Coming down from the top half of the carb into the bowl is a pick up tube that draws fuel up into the idle circuit. A fine wire needs to be run through it to be sure it's fully opened.

    There's 3 small holes in the rear throat/venturi of the carb that the throttle plate passes as it's opened. They should be in the top of the throat. Be sure that they're fully opened by running that fine wire in them. You'll probaly need to slightly bend the tip of the wire to do it. That's where the gas from the pick up tube goes to get it to idle.

    This fine wire can be obtained by peeling off the coating of a twist tie, or several twist ties.

    I never trust used gaskets or anything old if I'm not sure how old they are. Looks can be decieving. A new carb kit for that motor doesn't cost that much.

    After putting in the float, did you make sure it was sitting level, to just slightly higher than level?
     
  8. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Let me add a little something here bob. On the pick up tube that bob is refering to there is a gasket under it and if you put and old gasket back in it will most likely not throttle all the way up.
    Now do as bob said and then before assembly go to and napa store and order you a new needle and seat with all new gaskets. That needle if it has been sitting in a dry seat will have a ring impression around it and it will not feed fuel to the bowel like it should.
    This will not cost you a lot.
     
  9. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    Good point Bubba. I was thinking about that bowl gasket and the possability of a poor seal.

    When he mention the needle being all sludged up, I'm thinking the pick up tube would be the same way.

    I was going to refer you to a set of pics on carb cleaning, but I couldn't find them. a former mod set it up so you could just look at them with explanations.

    Anybody out there know where it's at?
     
  10. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    I read in the post that you said you could only get it to run on spray in fluid.
    If you were refering to starter fluid? Please don't use that on it because it will trash that motor. Mix you some pre mix in a squirt bottle and spray it in it.
     
  11. Jesse168

    Jesse168 Member

    Messages:
    247
    State:
    Memphis, Tennessee
    Another thing to check Bubba & BobPaul is if the old main gasket is black instead of the new brown type. If the old gasket is black type the gas we now get will deteriate it and stop up the carb. The brown type gasket is make of a special material that will work with all types of fuel.

    Jesse
     
  12. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    Thanks Jesse for the reminder.

    Another reason an older engine needs a new carb kit.
     
  13. birddog

    birddog New Member

    Messages:
    4
    State:
    Texas
    Thanks again guys,
    I am pretty sure I cleaned everytrhing properly. I use hvlp paint sprayers and have all the cleaning tools to get into the hard-to-reach spaces (wires and brushes and solvents). I am going to try the new carb kit ass soon as I get enough change in the change bowl. I believe the gasket is one of the newer ones, but I will replace it "just in case". The two times we had to use the starter fluid to get it started. Thank you for letting me know about the hazards. I will use the premix in the future. Hopefully I may get this done over the weekend. Any ideas on the gear rod? The gentlemen at the boat shop said the rod has turned, but he could not give any more advice than that. He was not the owner of the shop and did not give out a lot of free advice. Undestandably so, everyone needs to make a living. I would like to get this problem fixed as I redo the carb, so it is ready to be started. Thank You.