How long is too long to let Sea Foam sit in the cylinders? Also I just odered the rebuild kits for my 1989 88hp Johnson and none of the kits came with new floats. Is that normal o do I need to oder those sepeately?
I have let seafoam set in the cylinders up to 48 hrs before and it won't hurt it to set longer. The floats hardly ever come with the kits amd if your floats aren't cork or the hollow plastic type I wouldn't worry to much about them. If they are the hollow type just shake them to see if anygas is inside them to make sure they don't have any holes in them.
I have used a spray called creep. It it sprayed in the motor while running. It gets the carbon out! Then I have been putting ring free in my gas and between the 2 the motor seems to run better. Bill
Get you a bottle of sea foam or engine tuner. Sea foam is my choice. Put you a gal of fuel mix in a portable tank and mix about 3 or 4 oz of sea foam in it. Put the muffs on in the yard and run about 1/3 or 1/2 of mixture at idle and then remove plugs and squirt some inside plug holes while engine is warm and let it set foe an hour. Take it to the water and run it at wot for a few min and then let it cool for about fifteen min then put some more in the plug holes and run it for about 15 min at WOT. Then go back to your regular mix and add about 2 oz of sea foam to the mix and run like you normally do. This should clean all the carbon out. After doing all this then change plugs. I would add 2 oz of sea foam every time I filled up the fuel. this is a good stabilizer and cleaner to. If the plugs are a year old then go ahead and change them out after the decarb. If you run a gap type plug then gap them at 40 and it will make it burn better at low idle speed.
Bill that Deep-creep is good but it doesn't get it all around the rings like squirting it inside the piston holes do. Guys a little word of warning here now , never ever, put automotive type of fuel treatment in a two stroke engine.
Bubba, Should a person replace the plugs as soon as they get done doing the decarb procedure? I'm going to do this to my boat sometime this week or next weekend and I was wondering. I replaced my plugs last summer and they don't have a lot of time on them really.
Seth clean them good and keep an eye on them to make sure they don't get anything hung inbetween them like loose carbon. They should be good. I would go on Northern tool web site and invest in me a spark tester to keep an eye on my spark any way. The tester is about 5 or 6 bucks.
Thanks. I might just replace them anyways since they don't cost too much. Even if it's just for peace of mind, it can't hurt.
Well guess what? I rebuilt the carbs and the fuel pump and it it still will not idle!!!:confused2: I did the link and sync per the repair manuel and still the same problem. My compression is off some between each cylinder and I'm wondering if the could be part of the problem? Is there something else I could try, Help!
How big of a difference do you have in the compression and is that a 3 cylinder motor Go back to square one and explain to me exactly what all you have done.
Well I went out to do the compression test. When I pulled the top left plug out there appeared to be water all over the plug. After having me wife give it the smell test she said that it didn't smell like gas and she thought it was water also. The rest looked the same but not as bad and and the plugs were heavily corroded. I just put them in this fall and I know I can't have 10 hours on them. With a flash light I could see the top of the piston and they looked very pitted. I went ahead and did the compression test and it was TL 90, TR 103, BL 84, BR 75. This is a 1989 88hp Johnson. Hard to make an engine run on water!
Pull the head cover and it with a little luck may be just a head gasket. While in there look over the pistons real well. With any futeure problems the two basics things you want to do is do a compression test and spark test.
I pulled the heads off and I deffeniatly have water in the cylinders. That familiar chocalete milk was everywhere. I am surprised it ran at all. The good thing is, I just ordered the new gaskets and it will only set me back $35. I thought you guys were obsessed with the compression test. Now I know why. Thanks so much!
AQ compression test will tell you how good of a health your engine is in and a spark test will do the same. I would say that engine of yours was smoking white smoke when it was running.. While you wr wating for those gaskets it wouldn't be a bad idea to spray the inside of that enging down with some PB blaster to keep it from rusting. And turn it over and let it suck some down the carb throats. They can start rusting withen a matter of hours. If you got nothing else just spray it down inside with TCW-3 oil. You should have some of that on hand. Check those heads for levelness.
You'd be correct about the white smoke. When I install the new head and water jacket gaskets do I use a RTV or just the gaskets.
If the gaskets are the shinney kind I use only the gasket and if its not I only use a very thin coat of grease to help it seal. You need to torque them in three stages.
Well I replaced the head gaskets and gained about 10 psi on each cylinder but, the compession still varies a good bit between each. I pulled the boat down to the ramp and it seemed to run alot better than before on the trailer. Didn't get to take it for a run. Maybe tomorrow. Thanks for all the help! Another thing I will add is to really know what your are buying. I was told this was a local boat( I'm 400 miles fom the ocean), the insde of the heads and water jackets were full of corrosion from being ran in salt water. I affraid what the inside of the engine looks like. If your going to buy an old motor better trust who you get it from!
