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Cracks in hull?

3K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  Hurst11 
#1 ·
I've been using the boat a lot lately and noticed that I was having to pump out my bilge a lot so I went hole hunting and found cracks where the strakes? are welded to the front of the hull. I've tried 5200 and something more meant for metal and both of them were mostly knocked off in a trip apiece. Any advice on how to fix it? Welding would be a worse case scenario cause I've heard how hard it is to get someone who can actually weld aluminum. As of right now, my plan is to try using JB Weld in the next day or two. Thanks for any help.


I'll attach some pictures if I can get it to work.
 
#3 ·
David,
Your main task now is to get all of that goop off so the JB Weld will stick. Your next job (even harder but critical) after that will be getting the JB Weld off so it can be welded properly.
There really is only one way to fix it right and you know what that is. It sucks but that's the bottom line. That said, you might just get lucky with the JBW.

...W
 
#5 ·
David,
A good weld starts with good preparation. Aluminum is particularly sensitive to any contaminants left on the area you are welding.
Any welder worth his salt will want the area around and inside the cracks clean and should want to do the final prep themselves to ensure it's done right but you can save yourself money by doing the majority of the prep (getting as much of the old sealant off) before taking it to get a quote. Stainless steel wire brushes are your friend.
Don't be surprised if they want to put a patch over the cracks to ensure that any inaccessible contamination inside the cracks do not compromise the weld.

W
 
#6 ·
David, I found a good aluminum welder up here and learned he does a lot of aircraft repair. You might check with some local airports with private aircraft and see who they use when aluminum repairs are needed. Don't figure on it being super cheap. Here it runs fifty dollars an hour which really isn't bad. And he will stand behind his work. It is nice that he has his own workshop and will schedule the work, often while you wait. Winston is also right that you can save some money by doing some of the prep work before the welder starts.

Just a thought.
 
#7 ·
I agree that a very good aluminum welder is the right way to fix it, having said that I JB welded a basic 1648 riveted jon years that was still holding when I traded her off. I was able to get to the crack from the inside and "press" the JB through the crack to the outside then smooth if off on the outside. I don't know but would suspect most marine dealers who carry a line of aluminum boats could recommend a good welder but it has been my experience good and cheap seldom comes out of the same shop. Good luck with it.
 
#8 ·
Hey David I will have to agree with everybody else. I know the "boat" you're in here, but you gotta weld that or it is just gonna get worse over time. As the boat flexes so does that crack and it's just gonna get worse. The airport idea is a good one if you don't have a local welding shop. Also check in with some local mechanic shops or muffler shops. If they can't do it there, they probably will know someone good. Make sure that when whoever does it they drill a small hole at both ends of the crack before they repair it. This will stop the chances of it re-appearing again. I'm willing to bet this is gonna be a lot cheaper than you are afraid it's gonna be. Please keep us informed!!
 
#9 ·
Unfortunately, I went to 3 different shops and talked to a navy guy who could weld aluminum and the verdict was that the boat was, if I was lucky/didn't push it, good for one more season then sell it for scrap and buy a new hull. So guess I have to see how much an old aluminum boat will bring in for scrap. Not liking the glance at prices I'm seeing for a new hull.....

Thanks for the help and I guess if you have any more advice I'll take it
 
#10 ·
I guess it is what it is but I would think even after disclosing the defects it would sell for more than scrap aluminum prices. Guess everything has a life expectancy, sounds as your boat has reached it's. Hope you can find a replacement in your range.
 
#11 ·
I agree with ya on the pricing! I'm not buying an overpriced aluminum boat when I don't have to have one. My used fiberglass bass boats have done us just fine and they are WAY MORE comfortable and nice than a tin can boat. We bowfish primarily with ours and we beat the hell out of it every time we fish and it still works. Best part about a fiberglass boat is fiberglass repair kits are CHEAP compared to welding and you can do it yourself.
 
#15 ·
Update. Talked to a guy who builds aluminum boats for a living and he basically said he can do it. Estimated 300-400 and told me what caused the issue originally is because the bow of the boat isnt supported by the trailer so when I am trailering around, the bow is bouncing like crazy and putting a whole lot of stress on it. So good news. Ill hopefully be back on the water soon
 
#17 ·
Something about JB Weld. I drove OTR trucks for many years. One time in Nebraska I had a hole wear through the bottom of an aluminum fuel tank. Went in the truck stop and found some aluminum JB Weld. The hole was about 1/2" dia and I got it filled with JB weld. Re-filled the tank and it worked fine. When I got in off that trip I ground the patch down smooth with the tank and you couldn't see the patch anymore. That was years ago and I like to think that tank is still working without leaking today. JB Weld is some great stuff. I use JB steel to bed rifles!
 
#18 ·
Know this a older post. Alum is it’s own problem. Glad you found a welder who knows what he is doing.
I learned a lot of things in the army about stressed alum and how to repair it. Stuff they do not teach in tech schools. Like alloy-fill matching, destressing, drilling past the crack, chill plating, tig vs mig, and other things.
 
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