Couple questions about servicing my Yamaha

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by JPritch, Jun 8, 2007.

  1. JPritch

    JPritch New Member

    Messages:
    1,852
    State:
    Lynchburg, VA
    I have a 2006 Yamaha F60TLR.

    Did my 10hr motor oil and gear oil change yesterday. It went pretty smooth.

    First question is regarding the gasket for the oil drain plug. The service manual states to replace the gasket each time you change the oil. So I ordered a bunch of them @$3/ea. I was expecting them to be rubber, and hence change 'em each time. But they're metal. Just wondering why with metal gaskets you still need to change them out each time, or do you? I don't mind doing it, just wondering why.

    Also, I put the earmuffs on my motor and let her idle to get the oils up to temp a little. I noticed no water was coming out of the pee hole during this procedure. Is this normal, or did I have it setup wrong? I shut down the motor because I didn't want to mess anything up.
     
  2. SubnetZero

    SubnetZero New Member

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    1,619
    State:
    Sherman IL
    Had that happen one time.. Finally figured out I didnt have the hose on full blast.. Turned up the hose, worked fine....
     

  3. JPritch

    JPritch New Member

    Messages:
    1,852
    State:
    Lynchburg, VA
    I had the hose on full blast, but I think my problem was I couldn't get a good seal on the muffs. Water was shooting out from the sides. I bought the Yamaha muffs too.

    Related question, the muffs I bought only supply water to one side. Is it better to maybe get an aftermarket set that supplies water to both sides of the intake?
     
  4. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    If you look down there you'll see straight through to the other side, and yes there was something wrong with the way you had your muffs on. If you get a "Y" for your hose, you can also use the motor flush attachment, but don't use it alone without the muffs on and run your engine.

    As far as the gasket goes it's a copper ring that crtushes, similar to a spark plug seal. I used to just turn them over. if you'll look at the one you took off, you'll see it's crushed in one way.

    Yamaha said to replace them long after I started doing the oil changes. The change order came about for whatever reason only Yamaha knows. I never had a problem before I started changing those metal gaskets.

    I'd do what the manuls says to do. We changed oil filters too at the initial oil change, It's not specified in the manual to do that. They should be good for 100 hrs or changed every season, just like lower unit and crank case oil.

    Get an hour meter installed at your ignition key area. Power to it will plug into a yellow wire under the dash coming from the ignition. Yellow wire from the ignition is key on 12V power. The meter will run if you leave your key in the on position, or when the motor's running.Good way to keep records for maintenance.
     
  5. Bigun

    Bigun New Member

    Messages:
    234
    State:
    Burnet, TX
    I was told that the hose connection on the newer Yamaha's was usable for running the motor. I have used mine but just for short periods. This is from the head mechanic at a dealer. Is there something that I missed or is there a problem here?
     
  6. Mr.T

    Mr.T New Member

    Messages:
    2,553
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    MO
    At $3 each, I think I know why... :roll_eyes:

    The seals on my F115TLR are some sort of composite material, not metal. I have some replacements that are metal but the originals aren't. Changed the lower unit oil twice so far, still using the originals. No worrys.
     
  7. Gordhawk

    Gordhawk New Member

    Messages:
    1,378
    State:
    Iowa
    Byron,
    I guess I'm a little confused too,because I was told that I could hook my garden hose up to the fresh water connection on the motor,and run it without any problems. I hope I haven't shortened the life of my motor by running it with the hose connected only.
    Glenn
     
  8. Mr.T

    Mr.T New Member

    Messages:
    2,553
    State:
    MO
    The manual seems pretty clear to me. In the section on "Flushing power unit", which talks about using the garden hose connector to flush the engine, there's a caution in bold that reads:

    Do not perform this procedure while the engine is running. The water pump may be damaged and severe damage from overheating can result
     
  9. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    It bypasses the impeller and may cause the impeller to run while its dry doing damage to the water pump hense when reimerged no water being pumped.