Checking a trigger assembly HELP!!!

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by maxcain, Aug 5, 2007.

  1. maxcain

    maxcain New Member

    Messages:
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    State:
    Indiana
    Hey Willard

    This is shawn again had the thread on the m800 thunderbolt. could you tell me how to check the trigger assembly. its a 1978 m800 thunderbolt. I also need a part number for it I can't seem to locate one on the assembly anywhere. Thanks again Shawn
     
  2. maxcain

    maxcain New Member

    Messages:
    10
    State:
    Indiana
    Think the m800 thunderbolt might be a 1980 becuase the trigger assembly it has a hooked arm not a striaght arm is there a difference
     

  3. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
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    McMinnvill
    Shawn Post me a serial number for that motor as They installed two or three different types of triggers during the years and I'll get you the trigger test and the stator test.
     
  4. maxcain

    maxcain New Member

    Messages:
    10
    State:
    Indiana
    Willard the only serial # I can find is this one. 4833145
    I also have a mercury part nymber that I found from a boat dealer here
    in Indiana. its for the Trigger Assebly if that will help. Its as follows 96453A2 Thanks Again for all your help!!!!

    Shawn
     
  5. maxcain

    maxcain New Member

    Messages:
    10
    State:
    Indiana
    Willard

    I am a little more confused after doing research of my own. I found that the serial # that I gave you falls between 4831999 & 5582561 which a web sight said is a 78-79 motor and that the trigger assembly has a straight arm. not a hooked arm. But the trigger assembly that I took off my mercury has a hooked arm which would mean that its a 1980 to 1983 serial number 5582562 and above. Can both trigger assemblies work??? I just dont want to bye the wrong one. Thanks

    Shawn
     
  6. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

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    4,532
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    McMinnvill
    Don't go and buy any thing until we check each component or you will spend a bunch of money for nothing.
    When you post about this motor keep it all in the same thread. It gets confusing chasing different questions in sever different threads
     
  7. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    disregard this post I read the serial number wrong
     
  8. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    You have a 1978 model. This is a four cylinder isn't it.

    Its nothing uncommon to see changes lie that on triggers and stators to shawn.
     
  9. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
  10. maxcain

    maxcain New Member

    Messages:
    10
    State:
    Indiana
    Thanks Willard
    That is the one. I will be glad to get the test from you. I wont be able to test it till this week end but i am looking forward to it. You have been a great help and I am not just sayiong that. I dont think i could have gotten this far without youir expertise.

    Shawn
     
  11. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Oh BTW that trigger assy in the picture is I think 78 bucks.

    Here is a site that has some good reading for a person starting to do his own repairs.

    http://www.homestead.com/dolphinmarineservice/Tech.html


    Alright here is the trigger test. This was written by a fellow I use to read all his stuff he wrote and man was he good on mercs. I think he has a good size shop down in or over in north carolina. Dang shame I can't remember his name.
    Awh shoot this is another test You need to do any way. I'll find the trigger test. My filing system leaves a lotto be desired.

    This test is for the 332-2986 switchbox used from 1967-1978 on all the
    inlines.

    This test assumes your coil is good (most all are).


    Disconnect the mercury switch (kill switch)

    DISCONNECT BATTERY

    1. Turn off ignion
    2. Disconnect all 3 wires on the distributor side of the switchbox.
    3. Remove the HV lead from the coil to the center cap (remember it unscrews
    from cap)
    4. Reconnect that HV center lead to the COIL side only.
    5. Position that HV lead about about 3/8" from ground (block, shrouds etc)
    and find a way to hold it there.
    6. Jumper the brown and white terminals on the dist. side of the switchbox
    together.

    RECONNECT BATTERRY

    7. Check that you have +12 V at red terminal.
    8. Turn on ignition and verify +12V at white terminal (on red terminal side)
    9. Touch the black terminal to ground - unit should cause spark each time
    you touch ground.

    If that passes and it won't fire at all, suspect the trigger
     
  12. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    with your type of switch box, you shouyld have a constant +12V to the red terminal at all times, even with the key in the "off" position.with the key in the " on " position, you should have +12V at the white terminal( just below the red).some times, the wire harness will corrode and deteriorate and you may not even notic this. i know, ive had it happen to my 1975 850.try running a small jumper wire from the red terminal to the white terminal, so that it has +12V to the white too, but if it starts when you do this, you wont have a kill switch via the key, youll have to choke it to kill it.

    Oh BTW that other post is the trigger test,
     
  13. maxcain

    maxcain New Member

    Messages:
    10
    State:
    Indiana
    thanks Willard you have been a great help Shawn