Charging problem

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by edward361, Feb 21, 2007.

  1. edward361

    edward361 New Member

    Messages:
    117
    State:
    Shiner Tex
    I have sater problem I think. Before cranking 12.2 volt's same idle and throttle. If that is it how hard is it to repair, and is it under the fly wheel.
    Or on the side the block.It's a 1986 Johnson 150GT it has three two barrel carb's. They charge $85.00 an hour down here if I could do it myself I
    could save alot of money.
    THANK FOR ANY INFORATION!!!!!:lol: :sad2:
     
  2. miichael

    miichael New Member

    Messages:
    380
    State:
    North Carolina
    its not hard to change. You gotta pull the flywheel and its basically very simple. unbolt it and unhook the wires and bolt new one on. i replaced the stator on my 70hp evinrude and it didn't take no more than 2 hours. the hardest thing was holding the flywheel to break the nut loose :big_smile:
     

  3. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    That is a costly part to be putting on and it not cureing the problem. The stator may not be at fault. There are some test to do to dertimine if it is in fact your problem. I don't have the manuel for that model. Do you have one if not I will see if I can find the test procedure for it. I can't remember if it has a recetfier or not but that could be the problem and that is a whole lot cheaper then the stator.

    Post the model number of it and I'll run down some test to do before changing anything.
     
  4. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    It's got a rectifier/regulator. It sits on top rear and is water cooled from the underside that's in contact with the water jacket.

    Get a manual and you'll be able to identify all the stator connections and find the test proceedures.
     
  5. edward361

    edward361 New Member

    Messages:
    117
    State:
    Shiner Tex
    I don't have a manual do you know were i can get one.
     
  6. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
  7. edward361

    edward361 New Member

    Messages:
    117
    State:
    Shiner Tex
    Yes Bubbacat I have one like that but it's white and on top paritally under
    flywheel. My serial# is R-7610006 model# is J150STLCDC
     
  8. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Did your tach quit working also. I,ll see if I can locate the procedure to check that recitfier and if its bad then there lies the problem. I'll also get you the link to the book you need because it will come in handy 10 times over.

    That picture I sent you is of the thirty amp one and those are the higher priced ones. I have a link to about the cheapest place to order one from.
     
  9. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
  10. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Edward this is what your model number will tell you.


    J 150 ST L CD C
    J is for johnson
    150 is the horse power
    ST says it has tilt and trim with special styling
    L it is a 20 inch transome.
    CD it is a 1986 year

    C is a production run letter only the builder knows what for.​
     
  11. edward361

    edward361 New Member

    Messages:
    117
    State:
    Shiner Tex
    Thank you very much Bubbakat, my tach does not work right at idle it's 1000
    RPM's at throttle it goes 1600 then drop's to 0. I would like to take itout saturday with an extra battery would it be wise.
     
  12. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    It ain't gonna hurt a thing Edward. I will go and find that procedure so you can test it when you get back or do it sunday either one. Its a short simple test with an ohm meter.
     
  13. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Please note an analog meter must be used for the test. A digital one may give false readings.

    Alternator
    Produces alternating current.

    Rectifier
    Changes the alternating current AC to direct current
    DC. The rectifier uses diodes (one way gates to
    accomplish this task)

    Voltage Regulator
    Used to limit the amount of current delivered to the
    battery. The Rectifier accomplishes this by shorting
    on yellow stator lead to ground.

    Voltage Regulator/Rectifier
    Performs both jobs of the separate components
    combined.

    Battery
    Stores DC current, the current stored in the battery
    is used to start the engine and operate lights and
    accessories.


    If you have a Johnson or Evinrude, Yellow wires
    will be the equivalent of the AC Terminal and the red will be the +
    They are tested the same way as the tests written here.


    Remove leads from Rectifier.
    With an Ohm meter, place the Red lead on the
    + Terminal on the Rectifier.
    Place the Black lead on the AC Terminal
    Repeat the above steps for both the AC Terminals.
    The Ohm meter should show continuity.


    Remove leads from the Rectifier.
    With an Ohm Meter, place the Red lead on the
    AC Terminal on the Rectifier.
    Place the Black lead on the - Terminal
    Repeat the above steps for both the AC Terminals.
    Continuity should only be read 1 way.
    If it reads both ways, the Rectifier is BAD
     
  14. edward361

    edward361 New Member

    Messages:
    117
    State:
    Shiner Tex
    Thanks Bubbakat were going catfiching in the morning we'll ckeck it sunday.
     
  15. edward361

    edward361 New Member

    Messages:
    117
    State:
    Shiner Tex
    Sorry Bubbakat for not following up on this matter, but got called out of the state for four week's. Didn't get to go fishing either' but will check it out when i get back. THANK YOU
     
  16. edward361

    edward361 New Member

    Messages:
    117
    State:
    Shiner Tex
    Bubbakat I got back in sat. took boat out today ran good for about half mile
    then trolltle down and it dyed.would turn over but not crank. Trolling motor
    all the way back loaded on trailer got home and motor ran good on muff's.
    WHAT THE H!!! is going on thank you for any help.
     
  17. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    That would be entirely different problem then your charging problem. The charging system won't shut one off like that.

    The shutting down could have been a lot of things. Did you trying pumping your fuel primer bulb when trying to recrank. I have seen loos key switches do this and also the kill wire on the junction box be loose do that.
    Lets start with you fuel system and see if there is anything wrong there. Also peep up under the fly wheel with a good light and see if you can see any goo melted and running out of the stator.
     
  18. edward361

    edward361 New Member

    Messages:
    117
    State:
    Shiner Tex
    thank you bubbakat but i'm tire'd of messing with this boat and motor
    i'm going to sell it as is and bye me a smaller alum. boat and motor. so
    i can handle it by myself. This boat is just to big for me and the water i fish.
    BUT THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR ALL THE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  19. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    You are very welcome edward and ask away anytime.