Carl's Worm Making Process

Discussion in 'Catfishing Library' started by Stubby, Aug 22, 2008.

  1. Stubby

    Stubby New Member

    Messages:
    208
    State:
    Kansas, Ar
    July 2008

    I’ve posted a few times about Stink/Dip bait and how I use someone else’s bait and just add ground shad to it to make it richer. Over the years I used mostly Ben Harths & Sonnys. There have been a few others but it don’t take long to eliminate the commercial ones that get on the market for profit sales at places like Wal-Mart.

    I’ve been making my own Stink/Dip bait worms for at least 25 years and after talking to Whistler, we decided that an article on mold making and worm pouring might have some interest on the BOC. I’m going to try to show you how to make a couple of the block type molds. A block mold is a mold that has a cavity in it for which you pour a material into the cavity and make a part or in this case a dip worm. In other words we make a hole in something that has the shape of a worm that we can fill over and over with plastic material to make our own warms. The commercial dip worms are much prettier than the ones we will make but pretty is for fishermen and worms are for fish. There is no doubt that the Bait makes the worm so all we gotta do is make a worm that will hold bait.

    FIRST ITEM: The material in a dip worm is: Liquid Plastic a String & a Hook. The only reason we need the ridges in the worm is to hold the dip bait. The string is to hold the hook and the hook is to catch the fish. Shape of the worm don’t matter, if it will hold the bait. Shape of the hook don’t matter, if it will catch the fish. Color can be added to the liquid plastic to catch fishermen. The string and the hook can be added to the worm later by using a long needle but I have always liked to pour the plastic material around the string so it would grip on to the hook and hold better. How ever it makes the mold trickier to make if the mold also has to hold the string in place.

    SECOND ITEM: The Mold has only one purpose, to make ridges or holes or something else that will hold dip bait. And that’s all I got to say about that.

    MOLDS: A mold is an item used to form something into the shape we want. A good example of a mold is a waffle iron. It holds the material we put into it until it is acceptable to us. We are basically doing the same forming type operation when we make a dip bait worm but because there aren’t many molds on the market that fits our purpose we are going to make one. I intend to show you how to make a mold out of two types of material. However we need to make a form to make our mold in first. This will be a Block type form made from wood and having shape of a box.

    Approximately 1.3/8 deep X 3.00 wide X 10 1/2 long. The bottom is ½ inch and the sides and ends are ¼ wood. Actually the sides & ends are made from 5gal paint stir sticks I got from Sherwin Williams. Cut the pieces and pre drill the screw holes. Yes put it together with screws and you can take it apart to get the mold out. You can also use the box to make both types of molds—Plaster of Paris & RTV Silicon. I suggest you sand the inside surface of the boards with fine paper before you put it together. The better the surface the better the mold. This is not rocket science, once you get the box made all have to do is decide what material you want to pour the mold out of, plaster of, paris is available at any craft store or hardware store for about $5.00 for 10lbs. or the RTV is a two part silicon rubber type material that mixes 1 to 1 and has about 15 minutes work time, which is plenty. The cure time is 2 hours or less. RTV is going to cost about $40.00 I let plaster of paris set overnight. Another reason to screw your box together is to get the mold out without breaking it. RTV don’t need a release spray of any kind, A Plaster of Paris Mold should be sprayed with clear sealer and let dry really good. This size box will make a mold for pouring 6 worms at a time. OK—now the other side of the coin—I made my first mold box out of a ½ gallon juice carton by laying it on its side cutting it off 1&1/2 inches deep. If you’re only going make worms for yourself and a few to give away then I suggest you go with the Plaster for your mold. It will be much cheaper! It’s also a pain in the other end to work with and,,, I just broke the 12 cavity plaster of paris mold I had poured to show you. I guess I have probably broke one out of every two plaster molds I’ve ever made. Maybe that’s why I quit making plaster molds.


    POURING THE MOLD:
    First off you got this box you spent all day making now you will need some kind of a worm pattern to make the mold over, you actually need 6 of them for a six cavity mold and my suggestion is buy 6 of some body’s commercial made worm and go from there. The fun’ist (hardest) part of this project is getting the sample worms you bought to stick down in the bottom of the box you made so you can pour the mold material over them to make 6 cavities in your new mold. That “plastic” that worms are made of won’t stick to NOTHING. I tried every type of glue available to get the samples to stick to the bottom of the box or carton so I could copy them into my mold. The best I’ve found is a double sided rubber tape available at some automotive stores used to stick letters and such to cars after they are painted–I’ll try to find out the brand. It’s a product of 3M. but I haven’t found the number yet.

    I think along about here a series of pictures will be more explanatory than my written word. OK, so I’m not a photographer, I can make worms & Molds.


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    #1 picture is Sticks for making a box mold. It’s made out of wood & screwed together. Mark the bottom lines for placement of your sample worms before you screw the box together. However you’ll probably have the box apart and together several times before you get it like you want it. That’s another reason to screw it together. Pre drill the screw holes and counter sink them on the ends & sides.

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    #2 is trying to get the samples or whatever you’re gonna use for samples to stick to the box & aligned in the box. We are going to make this mold so the string will go thru it and the hook will be molded into the worm as we pour it. It’s pretty simple on a rubber RTV mold. On a plaster mold you can just use a hacksaw blade and make the notches to hold the hook and string. On the RTV mold it has to be cut Very Carefully to make the notches for the hook and string. 3M Molding Tape Part# 03614 1/2 X 15ft Approx $8.00

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    #3 is mixing the mold material – RTV this time. As stated before it’s a 2 part mixture 1 to 1 from the bottles into a 4 cup kitchen measure. And mixed up good with a spoon……I made two molds of 6 cavities each from the Aero Marine 25 kit. For about $50.00 total including shipping. Available from-- AeroMarine Products - Epoxy Resin, Urethane Foam, Silicone Mold Making Rubber (877-342-8860)

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    #4 is pouring the material in the mold over the sample worms. Make sure you pour over the sample worms first to get the air out of the groves on the samples then go ahead and fill the box to the depth you want the mold to be. The mold needs to be at least 2 tines the depth of the worm cavity for strength sake.

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    #5 is Taking the mold apart after the set up time & pouring a run of worms. Let the box set about an hour to set the RTV. Then remove ALL the screws and gently. with a knife blade. Pry the mold loose from the bottom board, DON”T CUT THE MOLD. Chances are the sample worms will come out in the mold away from the bottom board. Gently remove the worms from the mold so you can use them again. This is much harder to do in a plaster mold than it is in the RTV material.Your probably getting the idea I like the RTV better than the plaster and You’re Right.

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    #6 is cleaning up the mold and cutting string slot & hook slot,This is where you can screw the mold up. Cut the narrow side for the hook slot about 1/8 inch wide and ¼ deep. The wider side for the string to hold in is a single knife blade cut about 3/32 deep---if you make the slots to deep the hook & string won’t center in the worms

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    #7 is List of materials & sources of material. Hook is # 6 or #4 treble---The String is 30 lb Dacron braid about 8 inches long with a loop tied in each end. It’s also called trolling line at Sportsman’s Warehouse. Or search the net for Dacron trolling line. The plastic for the worms is M-F Manufacturing, Fort Worth Texas (internet search) also color is M-F. ask for their catalog. M-F also has RTV kits, but it is not as good as –HTTP//:AeroMarine Products - Epoxy Resin, Urethane Foam, Silicone Mold Making Rubber –Aero Marine Products, Inc. San Diego.Ca. or as cheap.

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    # 8 is how to use the plastic for making the worms. I use M-F liquid worm plastic and color. And I use about 30% hardener.

    First off get about 20 strings with hooks ready. But don’t put them in the mold yet. We’re gonna practice first. This is OK because you can reheat the plastic. Actually over & over again if you don’t burn it. Heat slow and med.

    Then pour 1/3 cup of plastic in a Pyrex measuring cup. Now heat it in the microwave on med/high for 1.5 minutes. It should be completely liquefied. And you’ll know when it’s ready to pour. Stir it with a spoon HANDLE. If it needs more melting go another 30 seconds at a time. Now pour some worms. NO STRINGS. Learn to pour and remove the worms first and then you’re ready to make worms. If you screw up a batch with strings just pull them off and reheat to pour again. When you buy plastic somewhere I suggest you get some Color---white-red-yellow-black will do for the first 100 worms or so. By then you’ll know if you want to make worms for the BOC. And, maybe by then I'll have decided to try to make another Plaster of Paris mold. NAW!!

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    GOOD LUCK and thanks for taking the time to read this.

    Carl Peetoom (stubby)

    In Kansas