CARB CLEANING 1992 70 HP Johnson Cover is removed exposing carbs. Once carbs are uncovered, remove the linkage so you can unbolt them from the motor. Each carb has 2 nuts, which must be removed. The next three photos show the best way to remove these hard to reach nuts so that you don't end up losing them. Take a stiff piece of wire and make a 45-degree bend at the end of it. Loosen the nut and place the wire in the center of it. Then continue loosening the nut so that when it spins off, the wire will catch it and you will not drop it down into the motor. Using this wire method I removed these carbs in 5 minutes and it will work for any hard to reach nut. When putting the nuts on, simply reverse the procedure using the wire. The next picture shows the 3 carbs laying in a tray lined with white paper towels. Mark each carb as you take them off. Mark the body and the bowl of each carb. I mark mine with a single line for the top, a double line for the middle and 3 lines for the bottom. (I, II, III) The next picture shows the carb separated. The main body to the left with the float still in it and the bowl to the right with the gaskets still on it. This picture shows the float removed with the needle still attached. This picture shows the float with the needle still attached and the needle seat removed and laying there. You're not able to replace the needle seat on all carbs, but these unscrew and you get new ones with the factory carb kits. This picture shows the low speed adjustment needle with the tension spring on it. Common adjustment for this carb is to screw the adjustment needle in all the way until it's lightly seated, then back it out 1 1/2 turns. Notice the glaze from the dried up gas in the bottom of the bowl. This is what builds up in the main jet and the low speed pick up tube that causes poor/lean running conditions. This picture shows the top of the carb body with the welch plug removed. The plug seals the cavity of the idle circuit. Inside the cavity are 3 tiny holes. As the throttle plate is opened in the carb, it passed these tiny holes and allows gas to be pulled in at idle to off idle speeds. The large brass fixture to the right is where the low speed adjustment needle is screwed in. Do not try to remove it. The small brass fixture at the bottom left is where the primer link is connected. Another item you don't try to remove. This view of the carbs shows the left one with the welch plug removed and the one to the right still has it in. I don't recommend you remove these plugs unless you know how without damaging the interior of the carb and you also know how to replace them so they're airtight. Those 3 tiny holes can be cleaned from the inside by inserting a small wire, slightly bent, to remove any blockage. Then some compressed air or a can of carb cleaner with the plastic tube. I bend the end of that plastic tube so it squirts into those tiny holes from the inside.