CAR TROUBLES

Discussion in '4X4 Truck Talk and Repairs' started by catman-j, Aug 12, 2009.

  1. catman-j

    catman-j New Member

    Messages:
    1,020
    State:
    Eastern Nebr
    I hope someone can give me some advice. I have a 92' olds 88 royale that runs like crap. It stalls 2 times when I try to start it and it stalls frequently when I'm driving. I have replaced the coil, ignition module, plugs, wires, O2 sensor, throttle position switch, pcv valve, fuel filter. I found a broken vacuum line and fixed that but it still stalls, usually when decelerating. I'm stumped. I had the guy at the parts store check for codes in the computer and there was none but the check engine light comes on intermittantly.:angry:
     
  2. Canadiancatman

    Canadiancatman New Member

    Messages:
    230
    State:
    Manitoba Canada
    Hmm what about the air filter if it's really clogged that might cause it to stall.
     

  3. arkrivercatman

    arkrivercatman New Member

    Messages:
    4,472
    State:
    KS
  4. Brianh

    Brianh Member

    Messages:
    48
    State:
    Illinois
    The only way to truly see what's going on here is to get this thing on a scan tool and get some data out of the computer. Otherwise it's all just a guess and I'd bet you are tired of guessing. Idle air control valve? Crank sensor? Both are possibilities but still just guessing. Does it die ONLY when coming to a stop?
     
  5. catman-j

    catman-j New Member

    Messages:
    1,020
    State:
    Eastern Nebr
    air filter is clean. It dies when you let off the gas pedal. I have found the idle air control valve on line at oreilly's for about $56 and it says there's an air control valve too but it's different.
     
  6. Brianh

    Brianh Member

    Messages:
    48
    State:
    Illinois

    You can try cleaning the throttle body. It's worth a shot and free! Get some carb cleaner and a small brush of some sort. Hold the throttle open and get any carbon build up out of there. If it's really dirty, it will cause plenty of idle issues. Try it...... it probably needs cleaned anyway so give it a shot.
     
  7. Jollymon

    Jollymon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,623
    State:
    Wilm .N.C
    I,m with brain on this one try cleaning the fuel system ,with a additive u put in tank,or maybe a full cleaning job on fuel system
     
  8. Rollinunknown

    Rollinunknown New Member Supporting Member

    Messages:
    2,286
    State:
    Missouri
    1st step Clean Mass air flow sensor its made by CRC its in a red or grey can ... 5 bucks its for MASS AIR sensors only! not brake parts or carb cleaner .I would even grab a can of seafoam and pour it in the gas tank and run it out.

    2d Check fuel pump Psi. they should sell a tool for 30 bucks.The fuel pump can work great sometimes then when it gets hot or even randomly still work but not have enough psi to keep the car running or even have enough to keep it running but run like dirt.

    If it was the converter it would smell like rotten eggs and have no power and it would be glowing red at night when you park the car you would smell it.

    Dose the car run some times then some times have a miss?
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2009
  9. catman-j

    catman-j New Member

    Messages:
    1,020
    State:
    Eastern Nebr
    Thanks! the fuel pump pressure has been checked and is good. I have run seafoam in it twice as well as stp injector cleaner. I'll try the mass air flow stuff too. Once I get paid I'm going to change the idle control valve. Usually when I'm one the highway it runs great and has plenty of hp.
     
  10. Iowa_Josh

    Iowa_Josh New Member

    Messages:
    1,463
    State:
    Central Iowa
    Buy the code reader and pull the code when the light is on.
     
  11. smokey869

    smokey869 New Member

    Messages:
    966
    State:
    frederickt
    i would check the crank sensor carefully, they get coolant down through the wire connector from the waster pump or intake leaks, they will cause the lights to flash on at times but not set a code, ill look tomorrow i think there was a service bulletin on that for stalling issues ill see if i can find it at work tomorrow, also do try cleaning the throttle body and mass air flow, like they said it cant hurt
     
  12. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl
    Recently had a bad CAT on our pickup and it DID NOT smell like rotten eggs. Truck hardly had any power. Unhooked exhaust at the manifolds and it ran great. Installed new front end exhaust with CAT and it ran great.
     
  13. Brianh

    Brianh Member

    Messages:
    48
    State:
    Illinois
    Yeah I've never had a bad converter smell bad. Not to say that it hasn't happened. A bad converter typically equates to blocked exhaust and a poor running car. It will usually idle just fine. Now a bad battery? That can give a horrible smell and is very explosive. Watch out for a rotten egg battery smell.
     
  14. cantstopgrandma

    cantstopgrandma New Member

    Messages:
    955
    State:
    MD
    Could be EGR Valve. I've heard of them stalling engines while decelerating. If its the vaccuum type you should be able to test it.
     
  15. Ecfool

    Ecfool New Member

    Messages:
    172
    State:
    California
    Ok guessing game is over. As Bob Paul and Bubba say about outboards how about a little more information. What engine? what transmission? if it has an over drive and it mainly stalls only when decelerating after driving at above say about 25-30mph may have a leaking valve plug for lock up convertor clutch, if it is it will stall out like you didnt push in clutch on a standard trans car. and once it has stopped will start and run fine untill you get into lock up mode. But just a guess how bout a little more info such as exactilly when does it die? and how driving when it does die? Also you get a check engine lite how long is it on a quick flash or for a few seconds , minutes?
    It gets really really expensive throwing parts at it to fix a problem.
    Need more info and may be worth the bucks to pay a shop the 1-2 hour diagnostic time to find problem.
    Just a few thoughts from an ole mechanic been wrenching since time before electronic ignition was around you figure out how long thats been LMSFAO
     
  16. Catfish_Scooter

    Catfish_Scooter New Member

    Messages:
    2,055
    State:
    Tennessee
    Check the alternator and battery power levels.. Just curious as weve had numerous troubles with those:wink:
     
  17. efrenlara

    efrenlara New Member

    Messages:
    2
    State:
    california
    :sad2:
     
  18. efrenlara

    efrenlara New Member

    Messages:
    2
    State:
    california
    :sad2::cool2:
     
  19. Mike81

    Mike81 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,254
    State:
    Alabama
    If the EGR and Cat are good... does it have a timing chain or belt? I worked on about a 91/92 cutlass a few years back, they had tried everything and it ran like crap. I pulled the covers and the pulley bearings had worn out and the timing belt had jumped several teeth. It still ran, just not good and loss of power.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2009
  20. pabloracer4748

    pabloracer4748 New Member

    Messages:
    283
    State:
    Kansas
    Quit throwing parts at the damn thing and bring it to a qualified technician.:big_smile: Or just jack up the radiator cap and drive a new car under it.:tounge_out: