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Discussion in 'Boat Tips' started by catmankev, Nov 23, 2005.
I would like to know what structural features to look for and which ones to avoid ???????
First look at the welds around your motor support/transom.
Go on to examine the pontoon supports to your deck from underneath.
While under there, take a good look at the condition of the floor and the condition of visible wiring
You don't want to see any cracks in the welds, also the condition of the trailer springs and attaching hardware.
Be sure the wings at the front of the pontoons are in place and in good condition.
Trace the wiring to be sure the boat was not used as a ground for anything.
Go under the console and examine the wiring for proper connections. Expect problems if you see some of those sqeezed on type connectors that tap into lines for ground and power. They should be outlawed.
If the boat has a hard top on it check the bottem of the side rails for craking i had to renforce mine. Also if it hes a live well look for wood rot inside between the seat avd well. good luck they are fun boats to fish;cook and enjoy familey tjme on.
I prefer the U shaped toon over the round ones they give you a lot more capacity to the length. My 20' with U toons has more buoyancy than my Moms 24' with round toons.
i repaire ( tig weld ) alot of pontoons . i find most of the welding is one of three spots -- transum - usualy caused by over rated motor / the first inner plates on both sides by the transum , the ones from toons to deck cross supports, the welds on the toon ends are usualy cracked on older toons dew to motor over years. an on the bottom side of the nose cones dew to beaching boat on land,rocks. o an i dont know about weight limits caz i dont personaly have one but i can tell ya i charge more to repair u shaped toons versies round, round i much easer to repair so if your looking at a fixer up you might want to price repairs at your local welding shops. if your looking at a used toon from a boat dealer ask them to preasure check it for you while you are standing there. they should only add no more than 5 psi to the toon an you or you watch as they go around an spray ALL welds with soapy water for leaks, if its a boat from an friend or bargan mart or somethink you can buy a pontoon leak tester at any boat dealer. all you would need is a wrench to remove drain plug in bottom rear of toon. but note not all toons have drain plugs. if the toon you are looking at does not have a drain plug it will have three plugs on each toon on top of each chamber an if you are looking to preasure test you will need to do all 6 for there is a devider between chambers. an as far a flooring look under an see if wood is roting, walk on it an see if you feel soft spots in floor. if your looking for a deal keep in mind also if your a fix it person it only takes 2 good days to put a new floor in even a begenner should have no problem putting in a floor in a weekend.
Thanks guys, for your comments and advice.
When I bought my 20' pontoon, it cost me a little over $100 to get the support/transom cracks welded, but I had to drive about 20 miles out of town to get that price.
Personally, I don't like fishing from a 'toon. Anybody interested in buying one? The starter on the outboard needs work/replacement.
Just curios but what do yu want for it, and what motor do you have on it?
Well, I was asking $2000 for it, including the trailer, but since it needs the work on the starter, I'd take $1800. The outboard is a 55hp Evinrude; the 'toon has a metal top that used to raise and lower, but is currently permanently mounted in the up position. If I were going to keep it for fishing, I would rig the top so two people could easily lift it totally off the 'toon, because that top really gets in the way while fishing.
I had a PM request for a picture, but couldn't figure out how to send it in a PM. I had several on the old board, but this is the only one I could find. As you can see, one end of the metal top is in the down position, while the other end is in the raised position.
Good advice you got here only thing I would add is do a compression ck on the engine and spark test to see if the motor is in good shape.
I would insist on a water test unless i knew the seller.
One of the first things I doo with a new to me motor is install a new water pump and chang the lower unit oil out.
A simple DIY that any one can do but good tell tell signs of abuse if left unattended.
http://www.dbelectrical.com/thanks.shtml is where I got my starter for my 115 merc.
Prices are real good and they busted there butts to help me.
If the housing is not busted most time a auto alt and starter repair shop can rebuild them for about half price.
how can i STRESS water test... it is most inportant had experiance in this bought a jon w/ 35 evenrude didn't take it for a spin.. darn clutch doggy was shot.... i bought a new one along with other parts b4 i knew it i had more into parts and pieces than the boat motor was worth... ended up giving it to a friend.. or atleast he used to be a friend.. ended up buying a 40 evenrude from a fella for 750 it had tilt/ trim, tack, and water temp gage.. with the fancy controls.. with return policy if motor didn't work.. had the motor for 2 years have not had a lick of trouble with it.. best thing i ever did.. b4 i bought a brand new boat this year. so now i have 2 boats whats a guy to do.. Did i mention WATER TEST..