"Bulk" oil?

Discussion in '4X4 Truck Talk and Repairs' started by bootshowl, Jun 23, 2009.

  1. bootshowl

    bootshowl New Member

    Messages:
    2,288
    State:
    Indiana, J
    With the rising costs of almost everything, I caught myself wondering if the "bulk" oil changes I've been getting at Wally World, is the right way ta go. Back in the day, bulk oil was a recycled product not worth much. You'd put it in a old thumper just ta get by. I'm a Penzoil fan, and they said the reference to "bulk" is just that it's brought in by the tanker load.
    Anyone know for certain if there is a difference in the product? For some strange reason I'm reluctant to take the service people's word, LOL.
    In the span of three years, my local Penzoil 5 Minute Oil Change outlet, has doubled it's price for the basic service.
    I just hate ta pay near $50 for an oil change....
    :eek:oooh:
     
  2. Jollymon

    Jollymon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,623
    State:
    Wilm .N.C
    BOOTS i don.t know about there ,but i know for a fact the state of N.C. comes by places using bulk oil an test it ,if it is not as marked they will close u down an fine u
     

  3. brownie525

    brownie525 New Member

    Messages:
    1,505
    State:
    Nj
    the change in price has alot to with the rise in oil prices but it also is a result of high recycling fees. getting rid of old oil filters and drain oil is very expensive.
     
  4. oh no

    oh no New Member

    Messages:
    11,108
    State:
    Indiana
    Re refined oil is better than new,,, the molecules are more rounded than new oil,,,,, That's what we were taught in Bethlehem Steels Millwright School....

    That's why synthetic is better,, more consistent molecule size,,,,

    Boots if you change your oil and filter every 3000 miles or so,,, your motor will last 200k easy,,,,
     
  5. jim

    jim New Member

    Messages:
    2,579
    State:
    Jacksonville NC
    I had actually learned the same thing years ago.Re refined oil was better.Bulk is just that bulk.Look for some place that will do your oil change with oil you provide.There is a place here that charges 6$ with your oil.I used to change my own but time is the thing now.I started using Mobil 1 when it came out years ago particularly in Colo during the brutal winters.I have not had a vehicle that didnt go at least 150k miles on it with ease.I change every 3000 regardless of what the oil says its good for.:wink::smile2:
     
  6. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    Mobile 1 full synthetic.
    4x4 Blazer with 230,000 miles and don't use a drop of oil between changes.
     
  7. smokey869

    smokey869 New Member

    Messages:
    966
    State:
    frederickt
    just keep it changed every 3000 miles with a good brand oil and should have no problems, i run castrol 10w30 non synthetic and my 99 bonneville has 217,000 and still going strong, holds just over 40 lbs oil pressure at hot idle, just keep it changed and air filters also
     
  8. brownie525

    brownie525 New Member

    Messages:
    1,505
    State:
    Nj
    also something thats not disscused alot is a good quality oil filter. Stay away from fram there junk i try to stay with wixx or baldwin.
    I run rottela synthetic and change it at 7500 i put a new filter on at 3500 and a quart of new and it cleans the oil right up.
     
  9. swampratt

    swampratt Member

    Messages:
    217
    State:
    oklahoma
    I must chime in on the oil thread...Oil today is not even close to what it was even 2 years ago much less 10 or 20 years ago...
    The gov. stuck their noses in it and lowered the ZDDP levels because it destroys the abilities of the catalatic converters.

    Now no off the shelf oil is allowed to have more than 800-or 850 parts per million of ZDDP, cant remember ...but i do know in the 80's most were between 1400and 2000 parts per million..1200 is minimum for good service life
    Now if it is labeled off road use only it can have more.
    This ZDDP. is an additive of zinc and phosphorous..to keep it simple.a pressure and antiwear additive that has no substitute.

    I have put 376,000 miles on an 82 stang with havoline..276,000 on a 91 escort with mobile 1 synthetic....and changed oil every 3k..motorcraft filters on the stang and the escort liked fram the best..although i do not.
    The only filter that would not tick on start up...Use that one

    I use ZDDP Plus with every oil change now,I even use it in my mowers..it will also protect bearings.

    I urge everyone who reads this to search ZDDP...one place is BITOG

    BEWARE OF NEW OIL,,,especially on new engines during breakin
     
  10. cavereric

    cavereric New Member

    Messages:
    96
    State:
    Austin,Texas
    thanks for that info Jeff I had know idea.
     
  11. swampratt

    swampratt Member

    Messages:
    217
    State:
    oklahoma
    I did not either till 2 years ago...I was about to break in a new engine 355 sbc..with a nice solid lifter cam,,everything was set and within 10 minutes the clatter of the lifters...I stoped the breakin procedure..and adjusted the valves .

    Then another 2-3 min. and again..clatter...Well knowing this aint right i pulled the intake..and the cam and lifters on about 1/2 the lobes was toast.....

    Then after a thorough cleaning and new bearings and cam and lifters ...it did it again within 15 minutes...
    This never happened to me before,,,so the research was on...and that is what i discovered low ZDDP levels

    #3 cam no problems and 2 years later still runnin 11.90's at 117mph. on 91 octane, and a daily driver to boot. 1978 nova

    this week i should have another one to fire up and break in(1947 dodge),,,I am using JOE GIBBS break in oil on this one,, and a little gm EOS
     
  12. kyelkhunter3006

    kyelkhunter3006 New Member

    Messages:
    1,192
    State:
    Ky
    Having had worked at Wal-Mart for many years and also running the Tire and Lube store, I can tell you that the Wal-Mart bulk oil (and the Super Tech brand on the shelf) is going to be either Valvoline, Penzoil, or Quaker State, depending on availability and pricing in your area. Wal-Mart will not use one exclusive vendor for any of their branded items, in order to keep pricing low.

    For another example, I own a retail bread route. There are 4 Wal-Mart stores within 35 miles of my home. Each store uses a different bread company for their private label bread.

    I also worked for Valvoline for a couple of years. The chemists at the research and development department told me that there is really no difference in changing your oil at 3000 miles and 7500 miles. It's nearly impossible to tell any degraded performance in the oil without doing a chemical analysis on it. I split the difference and change at 5000 miles myself.

    I do recommend reading your vehicles manual for suggested maintenace intervals. You'd be amazed at what some makers suggest. Some of Porsche's manuals recommend oil changes at 7500 miles, some at 15,000 miles. I haven't been in the business for some time now, but back in 2001-2002, for example, I believe that Toyota Sienna vans service interval for transmission fluid was 90,000 miles.

    Just about any oil is going to give you good performance with regular changes. I've put 800,000 on an '87 Chrysler with Quaker State, over 300,000 on three different Dodge Vans with Penzoil, etc. Change the oil, change the filter, etc. :wink:

    Of course, I also know a guy that NEVER changes his oil. :eek:oooh: He changes the filter 3 times a year, and adds oil when it's needed. He's currently got over 300,000 miles on his Toyota pick-up. When I asked him why, he said "Well, when you change the oil, it's only clean until you start running the motor. Then it circulates and picks up all of the dirt, grime, etc, that's in the motor and becomes just as dirty as the oil you just drained." :confused2: Definitely against conventional wisdom (I just couldn't do it), but this is his third truck that he's put over 300,000 on doing it that way.