Broken 7000 C3

Discussion in 'Reel Repair and Upgrades' started by USE TO BE, May 8, 2009.

  1. USE TO BE

    USE TO BE New Member

    Messages:
    130
    State:
    Ohio
    I've got a 7000 C3 that is giving me problem. With the reel in gear, I can pull line right off the spool like it is in free spool mode. Sometimes it will catch and the drag will engage, but most of the time it just free spools will engaged. Its not the drag washers, they are in good shape and the drag works perfectly when the reel does engage. Any one know what the problem might be?
     
  2. OkieHenry

    OkieHenry New Member

    Messages:
    79
    State:
    Hulbert, Oklahoma
    Have you tore the gear plate all the way down and cleaned it?
    If you have what kind of grease did you use?
     

  3. USE TO BE

    USE TO BE New Member

    Messages:
    130
    State:
    Ohio
    Yes, I have and it really didn't need any grease, still plenty of the red grease from the factory there.
     
  4. s_man

    s_man New Member

    Messages:
    3,012
    State:
    south east ohio
    Look on the bottom of the large Brass gear, there is a black washer under there that can fall off as you put the gear on, coat it with some oil and it will stick long enough to reassemble the gear onto the spindle. Also once you get the gear back on the spindle twist it counter clockwise a couple clicks to seat, then reassemble the sideplate and see if that fixed the problem. You'll have to hold down the little silver and brass stop aginst the gear as you turn it so it doesn't pop off.
     
  5. OkieHenry

    OkieHenry New Member

    Messages:
    79
    State:
    Hulbert, Oklahoma
    I would also clean the gear plate and regrease it some time the factory grease gets sticky after a year or two and gums up the release arms, carb cleaner works well ( just dont get any on your decals as it WILL take the lettering OFF) and regrease with vaseline.
     
  6. Ken D

    Ken D New Member

    Messages:
    160
    State:
    B.C. (CAD)
    Hio....I have a hunch your C3 is one of those recent ones before the Chinese ones. The Taiwanese were contracted to make the 7000's for Abu.
    They made them so well, they cloned them, and marketted them under their own name.

    Anyway, what the clowns did was: screw up big time with the little anti reverse dog. The drilled an American/English hole in the dog, and mounted it on a metric post !!!! Take the reel down one more time, and note just how sloppy the dog rocks and rolls on the post.

    This condition affects the red 7000's, the green 7000B's, and the silver 7000C3's, made in Taiwan.

    There's so much extra clearance there, that the dog can walk up the post, kick over to the side, and dis-engage from the driveshaft, giving you the very symptom you describe....intermittant anti-reverse.

    The fix is easy-peasy....buy a __Swedish__ anti-reverse dog. Go *way* back in the parts stream, and order an 8948.

    This number is far enough removed from the part number used in the 7's, it will be Swedish. If you have a dead 4500, 5500, lying around, you can steal the dog from that, till you get going again.

    Just in case: the leaves from the a/r dog straddle the driveshaft, not both leaves either above or below the driveshaft.

    hope this helps. KD
     
  7. Snagged2

    Snagged2 New Member

    Messages:
    6,252
    State:
    Verde Valley AZ
    Thanks Ken, very good tech info and data,, thanks,

    Greg
     
  8. Kutter

    Kutter New Member

    Messages:
    5,379
    State:
    Arnold, MO
    If it's one of the silver ones, I think it is too far gone to fix. You should just get rid of it. Here, I'll even pay the shipping to dispose of it for ya.:wink:

    Sorry, couldn't resist.

    Actually, I am looking to find one of the older silver sided 7000 C3's.
     
  9. Ken D

    Ken D New Member

    Messages:
    160
    State:
    B.C. (CAD)
    LOL... cute treply, Mr. K... (thx for the kind words, Sn2)

    There's other niggly issues with the Taiwan C3's...: the thin shim between the driveshaft and the main gear (6969) does not cross to Swedish ones. There are still some of those in the replacement parts stream.

    The return springs on the brake plate are kinda weak, and subject to stretiching, unless one uses a tool like a dental pick, to re and re.
    (remove and replace)

    And: Under heavy use, the Taiwan 7's driveshaft post, on the brake plate, 'flares' where the E-clip is...preventing a clean removal of the driveshaft _off_ the post.

    Unless one takes a small file, and removes this mushroom on top of the post, above the E-clip, the driveshaft will either not budge, or get scored a whole lot on removal.

    These issues, coupled with the anti-reverse dog, are the only challenges I've come across. Overall the reel's OK.
    Like anything else, once one is *aware*, one can easily take corrective action.

    Related aside: any owner of a red 7000 from year 1982 on up can replace The bronze bushings in the side plates, to make a red C model, not a C3.
    The size in metric is 3 x 10 x 4.
     
  10. USE TO BE

    USE TO BE New Member

    Messages:
    130
    State:
    Ohio
    Thanks for all of the suggestions. It seems the Reel Ferry paid me a visit over night because when I woke up, read through your suggestions and went to tinker with it, it was fixed. It is working perfectly now.
     
  11. rrssmith

    rrssmith New Member

    Messages:
    3,059
    State:
    Bakersfield
    I have the same trouble with a Abu Garcia reel, I dont know the model # i have had it for 10-13 yrs. It is black and says ambassaduer royal express. It is stamped made in sweden on the side plate then it say built in the USA
    from quality swedish parts. the drag will not tighten you can pull freely. I tried all the above and still wont work correct:sad2:
     
  12. Ken D

    Ken D New Member

    Messages:
    160
    State:
    B.C. (CAD)
    Hio....I suspect it's time for a drag washer changeout. Over time, and especially with the early Abus, the *leather* washers get all crudded up, turn black, get thin, and lose their ability to create friction.
    With the exception of the carbontex washers, all the rest are meant to operate totally dry. It's a fact of reel life, that tramp grease and oil will migrate into the drag array.

    I have opened brand new reels that have been on the retailer's shelf for a while, and the drag's already hooped from just sitting.

    Today's replacement factory synthetic washers, higher end 'carbontex' models, and the many choices on the aftermarket, make it a breeze to get that ole braking power back.

    If folks have been inside the reel, there could be a wrong parts placement*,and/or missing parts. I've opened reels with these conditions, re-arranged things, added fresh drag washers, and Bob's my uncle.®

    Hope this helps. KD

    *Many's the time where the belleville washers are placed ((, or: )), instead of )(, or (), or placed in the wrong place in the reel.

    ®And with the early fixed axle Abus, the spacer/shim pack is way short so the star can't operate in its full range. Folks left out things.
     
  13. Ken D

    Ken D New Member

    Messages:
    160
    State:
    B.C. (CAD)
    RRS: when you have a chance, could you post the first 4 numbers you see on the frame foot, under the reel. If no-one's switched out the frame over time, these will pinpoint the reel from the 25+ variations of the RE I, II, and III they did back in the day. For drag issues, it's no matter what size the reel is, they all use the same transmission.