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The correct way to set your anchors is to drop one anchor, usually the front. Then back the boat away from it as you feed the anchor line out. The amount of line that should be fed out on an anchor is generally 5 times the depth of the water. So anchoring on both ends you should almost double that. Feed out the line and then drop the rear anchor. Pull the front anchor in as the rear rope goes out until the boat is centered between the anchors. Pulling the anchors a little when they are at this angle will cause them to dig into the mud and strengthen their hold. This is the best way to hold your boat steady. Not perfect but about as good as you can do.

The mushroom anchor is not the best anchor to use but is not too expensive and easier to store that many.

hope this helps.
Well- that will help me as well!!Thanks to both of ya!
 

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Jon from Indiana
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Discussion Starter #42
Okay yeah that makes perfect sense, I wasn't thinking about making it dig into the mud. I was jus under the impression that you drop anchor and its all good.

So you said to feed out 5 times the depth of the water on the front line, do I do the same with the back as well or no because you said to double the front since Im anchoring both sides?
 

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The best answer is yes Jon. For the best holding power. So feed more than 5 times the depth out the front so when you end up with the boat centered, you have at least 3 or 4 time the depth out on each end. That will give you the best holding power. When your anchor is straight down and a wake comes along it will pick the anchor up as the boat bounces up and down.

With the ropes going out to the anchor from each end, it will hold the boat about as steady as it can be. If you have wind. try to point the boat into the wind. A side wind will still move you back and forth.
 

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Jon from Indiana
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Discussion Starter #44
Okay thanks again Tom, that makes sense. I'm excited to get back out again to try. We just need to figure out the motor problem.

Not sure if its the battery or starter or what. When we first got out to launch it wasn't firing up. A guy yelled at us saying it sounds like battery needs charged. So we pulled back up and took it off and attached it to the truck and let it charge for like 5 minutes. My brother said he charged it before he left so i don't know, maybe its not holding a charge. Anyways he put it back in the boat and we launched again and it fired up.

He thinks that when the motor is cold is when it won't start. So he wanted to fire up the motor every hour or so and let it run for a few minutes. He was also telling me it charges the battery while its running, is this true? I was telling a buddy about this and he said thats not the best thing to do as starting it uses up alot of juice from the battery.

I think we need to invest in a portable jumper battery charger box or whatever they are called.

Because when we called it a night the motor didn't want to fire up and I had to use that trolling motor that likes to do circles on me. Took forever to get back to the ramp even though we were not very far from it.
 

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Eric from Traders Point, Indiana USA
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Oh the challenges of anchoring in a lake! I'd like to add one more option that I utilize sometimes on windy days. I only fish in 10fow or deeper using this method. It's really simple, I use a river grapple anchor with 2ft of chain as they seem to work in many different bottom types. I like to let out at least 3 times the amount of rope out compared to the depth. I've found that the overly aggressive anchor allows me to let out less rope.
Then I basically fish suspended, and put my bait in the strike zone. I use 4oz weights just to keep the lines tight, because you will sway back and forth a bit. I don't throw out a 2nd anchor, but this only works on fairly windy days/nights as the boat naturally keeps oriented into the wind and the anchor rope stays tight. It's a great way to fish deep submerged structure without having as many hang ups compared to fishing with your sinkers on the bottom (I usually put my sinker 1ft off the bottom). A couple of the flatheads I've caught in Eagle Creek have been while using live bait and suspending over old bridge structure using this method. It's also very effective on ledges.
 

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Jon from Indiana
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Discussion Starter #46
Thanks for the reply Eric. I was fishing one rod suspended and another just casted out on bottom, far away. Then I had my bait rod that I just had a little bobber on that I was throwing everywhere. My brother had bobbers on all his and he had the right idea because he caught the only fish of the night, a pale looking 8.8lb channel. I've never caught one that big out of there. He was getting some more hits too. It was weird though they weren't slamming it like channels usually do. We were almost thinking turtles the way it was hitting but when the bobber would go under and stay under I knew it had to be fish. We were threading on like 5 and 6 shad, they were all small. Also had nightcrawlers but nothing was interested.
20190831_233244.jpg
 

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Yah, that place is loaded with very small shad. Late in the year, they get closer to a good size for channels.
 

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Well- that will help me as well!!Thanks to both of ya!
Kirk, that is for anchoring in no current. If fishing a river, I drop the front anchor and let out the proper amount of rope, then put a drift sock out the back. The current pulling on the drift sock will help stop the sway back and forth.

tight lines
 

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Hey Jon I have recently been thru headaches with batteries and chargers myself! Finally got everything figured out and back in good order. One thing to remember is that if one battery does go dead the leads are normally long enough you can switch over to the other battery just to get fired up and at least back to the ramp... however some deep cycle batteries don’t have many cranking amps so you may want to test yours and see if it does.
The motor on mine does charge the cranking battery. Not sure they all do that but at least some do. That said I doubt the charge rate would be good enough in just a few minutes to recoup what was used to fire the motor. That would take a manual and an amp meter to figure out the charge rate and probably more patience than I have haha
Another thing to watch is all the other things in the boat that are drawing power. I found in mine that everything except the trolling motor is connected to the cranking battery. So depending on what all your using such as lights and fish finders etc they can cut down on battery life.
trolling takes a lot of juice and one battery is dedicated to that purpose. If you find you use it less and other things more you can put some of those other things onto you TM battery to protect your main battery.
 

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One of the best anchors that holds well in dirt/mud is a box anchor. It does nit need as much rope to get a good hold. It is ales somewhat easy to make. Its main downfall is that it is bulky and difficult to store.
 

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Kirk, that is for anchoring in no current. If fishing a river, I drop the front anchor and let out the proper amount of rope, then put a drift sock out the back. The current pulling on the drift sock will help stop the sway back and forth.

tight lines
Thanks!!. got it!...........now if the river would go down.........
Still catchin though!
channel cat 7-10 Sept 1 2019.JPG
Channel cat 7-13 Sept 1 2019.JPG
 

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As soon as the water on the White comes back up a little, and you get some time, I will get you out on the White to get comfortable with that fast current and 43 trillion stumps, logs and fell trees. Other that the current and all the stuff to run into, there is nothing to it. lol

Oh and get some good rope. At least two 50 ft coils of quality braided rope. Nice to have a couple of 10 ft lengths to tie off to logs also.

Remember what the definition of a boat is. A whole in the water that you pour money into.

tight lines.
 

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Tom met me at catarack Monday to make sure i didn't get stranded while testing my boat. Thanks buddy. It worked good and i had fun. Still a few things to do. View attachment 311292 View attachment 311294 View attachment 311296 View attachment 311298 View attachment 311300
Dude, that's a sweet little Fisher. Welcome to the boat ownership club. Time to get a thicker wallet!

Couple of things:
  • Get yourself acquainted with the trailer, its wiring, and the tires/wheel hubs/bearings. If you need help redoing any of that, let me know. I rebuilt my axle/hubs a few years ago and don't mind passing on the knowledge. My director has gone through 3 hubs and 2 axles in a few years because doesn't take care of that stuff. He also drives like a mad-man.
  • Battery maintainer/charger. Get a good one that has 2 charging circuits.
  • Extra drain plugs, unless it's a Bass Boat. Just kidding, unless you put the drain plug in the bilge port like me. Whoops.
  • Learn the proper way to tie a rope cleat, and anchor your boat.
  • Always use non-ethanol gas, or Stabil in the cheap stuff.
When are you coming down to Monroe? We could team-up in the boats and find the Flatheads/Shad. Will you have the boat with you at the gathering?

Matt
 

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Jon from Indiana
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Discussion Starter #60
Sounds good Tom. You make it sound so easy!:cool:

Thanks Matt, and thanks for all those points. I need all the information I can get so I can try to absorb it all. I'm not very handy but I have a buddy that is so I have been trying to watch him whenever we have been working on it. I will hollar though if I need any help, good looking out.

Monroe is on my hitlist eventually, just finding time between work and family and stuff around the house to have time to go.

Another thing is my boat has to be stored at my buddys place for now because I can't fit it in the garage and HOA won't let me keep it outside:( plus he is in camby and I am in Plainfield so alot of driving is involved when I start taking it out.

I'm still up in the air about bringing it to the gathering.

B-bust
O-out
A-another
T-thousand
 
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