Boat wiring

Discussion in 'Boating' started by olgrizz, Mar 11, 2009.

  1. olgrizz

    olgrizz New Member

    Messages:
    8
    State:
    idaho
    I have a 14' V botton boat that doesn't have any lights on it. I have wired in my fish finder just using the round plastic wrap to run the wire throught it. Am planning to run navigation lights and some LED lights for fishing What do you guys use to contain the wires. Don't want to drill any more holes than I need to. I have a thin lip on the top of the sides of the boat but don't think I can get wire throught it What kind of switches do you use. There are ways around the wiring I know, but this is something to do to deal with the cabin fevor:confused2: Pictures would be great! Thanks Rick
     
  2. smokey

    smokey New Member

    Messages:
    1,876
    State:
    Tennessee
    Welcome to the Brotherhood. I will be watching this post cuz Im right in your spot now.
    smokey
     

  3. Dave53

    Dave53 New Member

    Messages:
    411
    State:
    Lonedell M
    olgizz,,,I used a 3-gang electrical box on mine..I have a new 15' jon boat..ran running lights, light tower, live well, and depth finder..I used regular light switches for the running lights, I have regular plug in for light tower to plug in when ever I need it..and the other things are connected in one side of the box with my "main switch" in which is another light switch..it gets a few looks but for the past 4 years has worked well on my other boat..I cut a piece of rubber that hangs over the 3-gang box and helps keep the due and rain off of the switches. Years ago I had a small box that I drilled holes in and had 5 switches for each light..after a while they started going bad and I went to the electrically switches and they have work just fine..just a thought.
     
  4. harper81

    harper81 Member

    Messages:
    340
    State:
    Summerville, SC
    If you don't want to drill holes they make brackets for zip ties that have sticky backs. They are square and you just run the wires over them and zip tie them.
     
  5. thunt713

    thunt713 New Member

    Messages:
    328
    State:
    winfield m
    you can use plastic wire lom you can buy it at napa or i have seen people use 1/2 plastic conduet :eek:oooh:
     
  6. Poppa

    Poppa New Member

    Messages:
    1,233
    State:
    Pinson, Al
    On my john boat I taped all my wire together about every six inches
    and ran them on the bottom of the boat in the vees under the ribs
    or braces. You need to use a 2 position switch on your running lights.
    I think by law in my state you have to show the white light when at
    anchor and the red green and white when moving. Put your positive
    wire to the white wire in the first position of your switch and the pos.
    wire to your red and green in the second position. When you pull your
    switch to the first position the white light comes on pull to the second
    position all lights burn. This saves alot of battery by not burning your
    front lights when at anchor.
     
  7. Iablue

    Iablue New Member

    Messages:
    91
    State:
    IOWA
    I used a length of 3/4" thin wall pvc with a slot cut length ways from end to end. Cut it on a table saw. With this cut you can spread it and lay all your wires that run from front to back or off to the various junctions. Use pvc clamps to hold against hull. Keeps wires protected and makes a neat job.
     
  8. Dsage

    Dsage Active Member

    Messages:
    2,137
    State:
    Topeka, Kansas
    I ran some of my smaller wire inside the top rail. Just drill a small hole on the bottom side of the rail and than you just snake it through. Out of sight and out of mind. Best of all it is not in the way of your feet or anything else.
     
  9. corklabus

    corklabus New Member

    Messages:
    359
    State:
    West Virginia
    We wired up an old Carolina Skiff we got as a basket case. After installing tower for the steering and placing the switches for everthing, wherever we had to run long sections of wires...we glued PVC water pipes to the floor at the bottom of the sides so it would be out of the way and prtect the wires from damage. Then we bought new heavy orange extention cords and cut the ends off. we fed the extention cord through the PVC to the points we needed wire and the just stripped and connected the ends. That left our wires completely insulated. Where connections were made we covered the end of the insulation on the wire with a little bit of RTV to keep the insulation water proofed.
    We also used as many quick disconnects as we could wherever we needed the wires to branch off in different directions for different accessories in case we wanted to remove something or substitute something else temporarily like fishing lights at night or cell phone chargers and such or extra livewell pumps.
    I didn't think about slotting the pipe lengthwise because all of our connections were either at the rear of the boat or in the front. The only center access was at the console and we just pulled the wires out long enough to reach the console and fed them through a short piece of PVC and then through a "T" and installed the "T" into the long piece of PVC before we glued it all to the floor.
    No worries about children or adults trampping on the wires or tripping over them and they can be painted over with anything including truck bedliner without worrying about the wiring and the boat can be washed out, or even completely filled with water without damaging any of the main wiring runs. The PVC was also sealed on all open ends with RTV.
    Even IF it were necessary to open the main wire runs, just remove the sealer and pull the extention cords out and feed them right back in with a soft piece of wire.
     
  10. corklabus

    corklabus New Member

    Messages:
    359
    State:
    West Virginia
    An afterthought or two......

    In choosing extention cords.....there are some with three wires and some with four wires. four wires are better if you can find them. Makes four connections out of one run or two accessory hook-ups.

    Depending on the size of your wires and your boat, you may want to use 3/4 inch PVC.

    I liked the idea of the slotted PVC for convenient access to the wires and ease of installation. This would work well with the extention cords and the cords would still maintain a good insulation factor. However, since the slot itself would be open to catch water, I'd also drill a few drain holes in the bottom of the PVC if it were suspended up above the floor line. Otherwise, I'd want to keep it a sealed install.
     
  11. ncfowler

    ncfowler Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,630
    State:
    NC
    Name:
    Jeff
    I ran some cvc tubing the full length of my boat between the ribs and sidewall
    then ran my wire to the bow of the boat. you may need to cut the tubing to feed it and use unions to connect them. you can use t's to re-rout it.
     
  12. DANZIG

    DANZIG New Member

    Messages:
    6,672
    State:
    West Virginia
    When I wired my ten footer I used the plastic loom and installed a marine push pull switch(like for the headlights in an older car) for the Nav lights. Pull one click out for the stern light, two clicks for both.
     
  13. cantstopgrandma

    cantstopgrandma New Member

    Messages:
    955
    State:
    MD
    I ran garden hose down the side of my jon boat.....my boat has what i would call a "strake" or spray rail or something that goes down the side from front to back. I used some scrap trailer wire i had laying around for the wiring....i figure if its made to last under a vehicle it should last in my boat a while. I used an outside plastic enclosure box for my wiring at the back of the boat....drilled a hole and mounted my switch and fuse in it.