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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
looking to replace my boat trailer bunks soon and i am currently pondering a few questions.

1. The bunks should not be treated lumber right? ( my boat is aluminum)
2. Should i use stainless steel carriage bolts countersunk in the wood to fasten bunks to brackets? Or will ss lag Screws work?( screwd are currently being used)
3.ss staples or aluminum? (For the carpet)
4. Is an adhesive necessary?
Id like to hopefully do it once and right. Any other suggestions or experienced tips are very welcome.
Thanks
 

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I made mine from white oak 2 X 4's. They were left over from another job and I had a saw mill cut a big log for me I hauled to him. Man said it was the hardest wood he had ever seen. Did not put carpet on them. Looks like to me the carpet holds water and speeds up rotting. No, don't use treated lumber. When they re wet they are pretty slick. I used hex head lag screws or sheet metal screws that don't quite go through the wood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ill have to look into the white oak, i know some people have used cypress also. Hoping to keep the cost minimal or just move closer to the river and never take my boat out
 

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1. The bunks should not be treated lumber right? ( my boat is aluminum)
YOUR RIGHT

Never ever use treated wood on a aluminum boat unless you want your boat to look like swiss cheese,,,,Pressure treated lumber contains copper and copper and aluminum don't do well together and you get galvanic corrosion

I used trek wood on mine ,,, its a plastic composit wood used for decks
 

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I would agree that you do not want treated wood in contact with aluminum for long periods like when an aluminum boat is setting on the trailer. You can coat the wood with a good paint before adding the carpet. As long as the treated wood is not in direct contact it will not do harm.

With that said, it may be best to avoid the treated wood.

One other thing. Treated wood is not the same as it was a few short years ago and I do not know it the corrosion hazard still exists but, it is best not to take the chance.

tight lines
 

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ummm wonder how I got all the repeated pics,,, sure wished we had the old server back , much easier for pics,,, tried to edit the pics out ,, cant figure it out,,
 

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I don't know if the composite decking boards are the same as the white plastic but if you are going to use plastic bunks,,,,,,,realize they are noted for being extra slick. Boats seem to slide on and off extra easy. SOMETIMES TOO EASY. Always have at least the winch strap attached when backing down or pulling up the ramp. When trailering, extra tie downs are not a bad idea.

Very nice job Dale ****** although the first time I tried it I would have only done it on (1) trailer instead of the (4) pictured. :bruised:

tight lines
 

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+1 on boats sliding off of the composite bunks. (Just read it never saw it)
I have carpet missing on the front of my bunks and I'm not too concerned about it. On the other hand I won't hook a battery charger to an aluminium boat on a trailer.
I have done a lot of work to my trailer and wanted to replace the boards but they were really solid.
So yeah I've got aluminium on treated but it's pretty dry and not the soaking wet one piece of plywood weighs two hundred pounds plywood practically dripping while you are rolling it out from Lowe's.
 

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Btw I'd be all over the synthetic bunks but holy cow the prices.......:eek1:
 

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Yes, use treated or cedar primed and painted also good choice long term. Cover tops with hdpe countersinking fasteners and rounding over front back edges.

Replaced my factory carpet covered side guide rails with hdpe as well (had to re bend the 1/4" angled steel some, but nbd).
 
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