The more I read about side imaging and stuff I keep seeing where it's really critical for the transducer to be perfectly straight and level. My bracket is bent from the previous owner and while I may be able to get it level it sure ain't straight. So today I tried an idea put forth by TWaskom which I thought was a really good idea. But I tried it today and it ain't working it just lifted the whole boat up. I also tried to work it with some big channel locks while it was under stress but nothing is giving. So I'm going to take it to my friend who welds aluminium and he can make a go at it while it's still attached. If that doesn't work he can cut it off, straighten it out and weld it back on...
Sorry the jack idea didn't do better. Here is a second thought. Take two lengths of 2 inch wide steel plate that has two holes drilled in it just wider the the width of the bracket. Put one piece through the opening and the other on either surface of the bent aluminum. In other words sandwich the bent aluminum. Put large bolts through the holes and alternate tightening then down so they will squeeze the aluminum straight. If you have a welder cut the plate, it might be best to leave an inch or so of the old plate on so a new piece van overlap to some. I would not get close to where it is welded by the factory on the tube. Keep in mind that the bottom of the fracked should not cause bubbles the would interrupt the transducer signal. Keep in mind the bracket, even as it is will not effect the operation of the transducer. The only thing it can do is to have it pointing the transducer a few inches or maybe feet in deep water, to one side or the other. Or maybe a little forward or behind straight down. Don't get to thinking a completely straight bracket will give you results with your Lawrence. Since your Lawrence mount can be adjusted to move the transducer angle in any direction, your would be fine to leave it like it is. Me, I like everything to be perfect. The bottom of the bracket being straight might prevent it from producing bubbles. Good luck, fish are awaiting.
The sandwich idea is what I would do. Could use one piece of steel flat and put it on the inside or topside of the horizontal side, use a C clamp to pull the hump out. Put the steel on the outside of the vertical and do the same thing.
if you got access to a torch heat it up not red hot just hot then clamp it as said before it just helps it to move back easier. just dont over heat it. or just cut it off and tig weld on a new one.
Thanks everybody. I'm really tempted to get after it with the BFH. I don't think it will hurt anything.
Thanks Mutt yeah I wacked it a few times and it sounded brittle and not malleable whatsoever. The hammer just bounced off. I'm going to take it to my guy and I'll also possibly commission the build of a box anchor.
