anyone else have troubles with scope "hairs" not moving

Discussion in 'Guns - Blackpowder' started by lissaannjon, Dec 2, 2008.

  1. lissaannjon

    lissaannjon New Member

    Messages:
    149
    State:
    Dubuque, IA
    Im startign to think its something im doing and not the scopes. I helped three family members sight in their new muzzleloaders this fall and have seen the same problem with them all/ the cross hairs dont seem to move when "clicked". has anyone else had this problem in the past. Im thinking somewhere i read that you need to tap on the scope to get them to "pop" and move but im certainly not comfortable doign so until i get some feedback from you fellas that have done it. or if you have any other ideas id certainly be glad to hear them all. im at a loss for what else to do. I have already taken care of some of the high and low with shimming the scope but left and right i cant really do that. thanks in advance for any advise!!!!!
     
  2. whisker maniac

    whisker maniac New Member

    Messages:
    2,712
    State:
    arkansas
    After counting your clicks on your scope always pound on the scope with your hand, or tap on it with with something that is not so heavy and hard that it will cause damage to the scope.

    I have always tapped on mine after each move and have never whacked it all that hard but hard enough to move the cross hairs but I since have seen a training video that showed an instructor get on to a guy that only lightly tapped the scope. He hollered at the guy and then pounded very hard on the scope with his bare fist. I was shocked at first when I first saw the video.

    Think of it this way tho.... If you adjust your scope and shoot it and it hits the bullseye your going to be satisfied that the gun is on target but if you didn't tap the scope after moving the clicks and it only partially moved and when you fired the gun the recoil and jerk finished moving the hairs then when you go hunting with that gun it will still be off and you could possibly wound an animal instead of killing it.
     

  3. johnliester

    johnliester Active Member

    Messages:
    346
    State:
    Hoxie, Kansas
    That must be a danged cheap scope if you have to smack it to get the movements to work. I have never had to do that and I use either Siimons or Tasco scope.
    Is it that the wires aren't moving in the scope? Or is the impact point not changing? If you are moving the adjustments and the point of impact isn't changing, your scope is junk. Get another one as there is no reason to have to "smack" a scope to get it to adjust. Very bad idea and will void any warranty the scope has.
     
  4. katfish ken

    katfish ken New Member

    Messages:
    4,092
    State:
    Paintsvill
    On the windage and elevation adjustment knobs it will tell you the amount of adjustment each click makes at a given distance. If you are sighting it in at a closer range it takes more clicks to get it to move than the distance stated on the adjustment knob.
    Most 3X to 9X scopes the adjustment is1/4" @ 100yds... If this is the case with your scope and you are sighting it in at 25yds. it will take 16 clicks to move the Point Of Impact 1" if you are sighting it in at 50yds. it will take 8 clicks to move the P.O.I. 1"
    I have run into cases with see thru mounts that there wasn't enough eleveation adjustment to set the scope in at a range closer that 50yds.
    Some times: Sighting a scope on a muzzle loader can be tricky.
     
  5. CountryHart

    CountryHart New Member

    Messages:
    10,914
    State:
    missouri
    All my life i've tapped my scope with my pocket knife.
     
  6. kenlaw76

    kenlaw76 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,323
    State:
    S.E. Pa.
    I have found that when I try to move my crosshairs I always turn it like five clicks past where I want it then then move it back five clicks. If I want to move it 1/2" to the right (two clicks for my scope), I would move it 7 clicks then back 5.
     
  7. johnliester

    johnliester Active Member

    Messages:
    346
    State:
    Hoxie, Kansas
    What kind of scopes are you guys using? Ebay super cheapies? Like I said, I've never had to play those tricks to get my scopes to zero in. You all may be a bit paranoid too about the adjustments not working. At 100 yards with a scope with quarter minute clicks, I move 4 clicks per inch. No more, no less. And I have a load of dead deer to show for it, not to mention various varmints.
     
  8. Snagged2

    Snagged2 New Member

    Messages:
    6,252
    State:
    Verde Valley AZ
    I've always tapped it lightly with an empty cartridge case...I believe I learned that technique in the Marine Corps...

    My Leupolds don't "click", they have an indicator but, move smoothly,,

    I don't really need to to this, but, I did it years ago on "State of the Art" Weaver K4"s ,,,,
    I wouldn't use anything heavy or forcefully,,,,but, If my scope won;t take that little bit of tapping,,,,, I don't want it on my rifle,,,
     
  9. bootshowl

    bootshowl New Member

    Messages:
    2,288
    State:
    Indiana, J
    This is a new one on me. I've done several. And on a 50 cal muzzleloader, don't know why you'd need ta tap anything.
    But I always shoot 2 shots, with a cool down between.
    You can see on the target, the point of impact.
    When I get two touching, at where I want it, I'm done.
    Are you making double adjustments at once, maybe binding things. I do left to right first, then vertical. Or vice versa would be fine also. Just thinking out loud.

    I worry more about rough handly undoing my work in the field...my biggest fear being to drop the gun on a hard surface.
    But I read this thread with interest. Never too old to learn.
     
  10. kat in the hat

    kat in the hat New Member

    Messages:
    4,875
    State:
    Missouri
    When I bore sighted my rifle, I watched the crosshairs move to the point of impact with each click, so I know mine does not require tapping. Plus ,it moves just fine when shooting paper. I'm like that other guy. If my scope wouldn't zero without a bunch of extra tinkering and tapping, I wouldn't own it. This is a very curious dilemma. None of the adjustments worked on multiple scopes??? Very curious indeed. If it was just one rifle, and one scope, the problem could more easily be identified.

    If they are bolt action rifles, just remove the bolt, put the rifle on a benchrest (a homemade one made from a cardboard box will do.), look down the rear of the barrel at a fixed point, centered in the barrel, about 30 yards away. Without moving the rifle, look through the scope as you adjust the crosshairs to the fixed point that is centered through the barrel. You will be able to watch the crosshairs move, and you will only need minor adjustments when you sight in at the range. If you do that, and the crosshairs still don't move, return the scope, or throw it in the trash. :big_smile:
     
  11. 223reload

    223reload New Member

    Messages:
    10,798
    State:
    Oklahoma
    Good post ,Matt. have never had to tap on any scope I have,But maybe its because I take my time adjusting the crosshairs,First elevation,Then windage and I only move two clicks at a time,Even if it needs 6 inches to get it there.
     
  12. Arkansascatman777

    Arkansascatman777 New Member

    Messages:
    7,782
    State:
    AR
    You do not have to or need to tap the scope to get the cross hairs to move on any scope even if it is a cheap scope. Some people (me included) like to tap on them to kind of seat them in place after they have sighted in their gun. You need to put this gun in a vise so you can tell for sure if the cross hairs are moving left and right.If it is not moving the cross hairs then you need a new scope. If it is moving them left and right and it will just not go far enough one way or the other to sight in the gun then it may not be the scopes fault. We have had this trouble with a few guns that were purchased from walmart. What happens is the rifle barrel itself has been drilled and tapped wrong (not in line) and no scope will move far enough to sight it in. more than likely the barrell itself is O.K. but at this point you have two options. The easiest fix if you can find scope mounts for the gun that has a windage adjustment on the rear mount. You will then be able to sight in the gun. If it's a newer gun they may not make this type of mount yet to fit it so then you are down to taking it back to the store where purchsed or sending it back to the manufacturer for a replacement barrell.
     
  13. katfish ken

    katfish ken New Member

    Messages:
    4,092
    State:
    Paintsvill
    Matt
    Great write up on adjusting the scope!!!. Reps your way!! I read an article in an outdoor or gun magazine many years ago that described just the way you did.
    I always set the windage as far out as possible, and often never have to touch it again. Then set the elevation at the desired yardage.
     
  14. kat in the hat

    kat in the hat New Member

    Messages:
    4,875
    State:
    Missouri
    If I remember correctly, someone on here suggested this to me, so I passed it foreward. It is easy, and works very well. I bought a new rifle, and there was a card in the box that indicated that it had been bore sighted from the factory. I looked around on the net, and other folks that had bought the same gun said it would hit paper right out of the box. Well...I took it for granted that it had been done. I spent a whole afternoon trying to get on the paper! (I'm stubborn...and not too bright sometimes.) Long story short, if I had known then what I know now, I woulda been on the paper on the first shot. Shoulda never took for granted what the manufacturer claimed. Never take for granted that any new rifle has been bore sighted. Especially when it is so easy to do with a bolt action. No tools necessary. It can be done at the range. Now, an auto loader, or a lever action may require a bore sighter.

    Another way to do it...inside your home is to tape a piece of paper to the wall. Mark two dark dots on it, one 1-1/2 inches above the other (for most scopes. For see through mounts, the height is different.). Secure your rifle in some manner, and center the bottom dot in the barrel, and adjust the scope to the top dot. I have a bore sighting kit, but find either of these methods easier, and it works just as good.
     
  15. katfish ken

    katfish ken New Member

    Messages:
    4,092
    State:
    Paintsvill
    Matt
    With a bolt action with bolt extracted as you described.
    I use a distant object to set the windage by. The farther the object away the better I like it. Then start at 25yds. poking holes in paper to set the elevation .
    With most rifles if they are set at 25yds.they will not raise more than 3" above line of sight. This statement does not apply to rifles with see-thru mounts. See=thru mounts are a hole different story.
     
  16. TITANSFAN2104

    TITANSFAN2104 New Member

    Messages:
    577
    State:
    Smith county TN
    i dont think the tapping is as common today as it was a few years ago! if you have a leupold or similar quality scope you dont have to tap anything and even simmons and tasco are to the point where they dont have to be! main thing is get a good set of bags or vice and always swab a muzzleloader between every shot because if you didnt move your scope and shot 5 or 6 times you would think something was wrong!!! your accuracy will suffer! just make sure everything is tight swab barrel between each shot and have a good rest and also get it dialed in a@ 25-35 yds and when you establish something there move to 100yds. just make sure if you do a rifle like this to check it because i have a 300 mag that i put dead on at 25 yds and shot a nice deer at 300 yards twice then shot at 100 and noticed i was about 4 in high.