Any Evinrude Mechanics?

Discussion in 'Boat Tips' started by DeputyCat, Mar 24, 2009.

  1. DeputyCat

    DeputyCat New Member

    Messages:
    5
    State:
    Kentucky
    I have an old 15HP (Mid 70's) Evinrude that will start right up but will only run for 15 to 30 seconds before it idles down and dies. Any suggestions on what might be wrong and how to fix it.
     
  2. Trapper-steve

    Trapper-steve Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,101
    State:
    Bicknell, IN
    Hi, it could be fuel pump or carb.
    First back to basics is vent open on tank?
    Have you tried pumping bulb when it starts to die?
    Have you checked fuel line for pin holes?
    Also when it runs does it pump water?
    Have you had this motor for a while?
    If you have owed it for a while did it run OK the last time you used it? and how long ago was that?
     

  3. gdlocal10

    gdlocal10 New Member

    Messages:
    434
    State:
    kansas
    I had a 6 hp like that , and I had to change the spark plug, and overhaul the carb, new plug wires, you know tune up, it was just time, Im no evenrude o mech, I put sea foam in the gas to try and clean out the varnish and deposits, it helped but did nt fix the problem but the tune up did, after that it ran great
     
  4. tbull

    tbull New Member

    Messages:
    3,318
    State:
    SW Ohio
    Sounds like carbs to me
     
  5. psychomekanik

    psychomekanik New Member

    Messages:
    2,534
    State:
    Illinois
    I'll second, or 3'rd the dirty carb suggestion. Carbs get sediment and varnish in them. It settles in time and when started runs o-k for a few till it picks up the dirt then chokes out the jet, and dies. then settles on the bottom again. I'd do a major tune up. carb. rebuild, spark plug, and points if it's got them. Also replace the water pump if it's older than a couple of years. The first boat engine I had, I started it after it sat for a couple of years and the water pump flew apart and pushed impeller pieces into the engine. After installing a new pump, it overheated because of blocked flow. I used compressed air, backflushed water through it. still couldn't get it out. I had to take the engine apart..... never again. I replace them every other year.
     
  6. DeputyCat

    DeputyCat New Member

    Messages:
    5
    State:
    Kentucky
    Thanks everybody. Was thinking it might be the carb but wasn't sure. I'll clean everything up and let you know how it turns out.
     
  7. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    I'd recommend you go to NAPA or your other favorite auto store and order rebuild kits for your carbs. Don't cost too much and you probably need them anyhow. While your at it, why not throw another impeller into that lower unit... real good insurance. LOL You may want to inspect the rubber hoses in your fuel system. They will disintegrate over a period of time and cause you bundle of trouble... gees, the only think you haven't changed is the diaphragm in the fuel pump and spark plugs. Go ahead and spend another $8.00 and get one of those tools you can check the spark plug firing...they are almost a necessity if your gonna pull maintenance on your motor.
     
  8. cfishman

    cfishman New Member

    Messages:
    32
    State:
    Nebraska
  9. Redneck in a Skiboat

    Redneck in a Skiboat New Member

    Messages:
    200
    State:
    South Caro
    It was pretty easy, and only took just over an hour. By the way Johnson and Evinrude are alike. The kit was $23.10. Mine did not have the same problem as yours. It would not idle, you had to throttle it way up to keep it running, then a full throttle it lundged. You could tell it had more power but it wouldn't stay at full power. I didn't see anything in the carb that would have caused this, but when I reassembled it it was fixed. Be sure to pop those round disk out to clean out those orfices, But don't drill the orfices or use anthing that would change the size of them. To put the new disk in just place the disk in the hole and place a drive pin punch, that is just a little smaller than the disk, over the disk and hit it with a hammer to make it expand and snugg up in the hole. The only adjustable thing on it was that lean or rich needle screw. I just counted the number of turns it took to run it all the way in, then ran it in all the way and backed it off to the right spot on reassembly. Then after I got it running I fine tuned that adjustment. I did the water pump also. It was $15. The drain hole was clogged on mine and it was a booger to clean out.
     
  10. Redneck in a Skiboat

    Redneck in a Skiboat New Member

    Messages:
    200
    State:
    South Caro
    It was pretty easy, and only took just over an hour. By the way Johnson and Evinrude are alike. The kit was $23.10. Mine did not have the same problem as yours. It would not idle, you had to throttle it way up to keep it running, then a full throttle it lundged. You could tell it had more power but it wouldn't stay at full power. I didn't see anything in the carb that would have caused this, but when I reassembled it it was fixed. Be sure to pop those round disk out to clean out those orfices, But don't drill the orfices or use anthing that would change the size of them. To put the new disk in just place the disk in the hole and place a drive pin punch, that is just a little smaller than the disk, over the disk and hit it with a hammer to make it expand and snugg up in the hole. The only adjustable thing on it was that lean or rich needle screw. I just counted the number of turns it took to run it all the way in, then ran it in all the way and backed it off to the right spot on reassembly. Then after I got it running I fine tuned that adjustment. I did the water pump also. It was $15. The drain hole was clogged on mine and it was a booger to clean out.
     
  11. Redneck in a Skiboat

    Redneck in a Skiboat New Member

    Messages:
    200
    State:
    South Caro
    That posted twice, but I don't know how.