Another Reloader Question

Discussion in 'Guns - Blackpowder' started by Poppa, Dec 5, 2008.

  1. Poppa

    Poppa New Member

    Messages:
    1,233
    State:
    Pinson, Al
    I have got to the age I have to have glasses to read, I can see from 5 ft.
    on out as good as ever. I can't see the caliber of a bullet without my glasses
    I shoot a 30/06 and a 280 rem. These bullets will not camber in the wrong
    gun but to the necked eye they look the same. What I do is I shoot brass
    hulls in the 30/06 and nickel hulls in the .280. I have always wanted to get
    into reloading one day so I always save my brass. I have a shoe box full
    of nickel .280 brass. A reloader told me you can not reload nickel brass.
    Can nickel brass not be reloaded? What is the problem with nickel brass?
     
  2. katfish ken

    katfish ken New Member

    Messages:
    4,092
    State:
    Paintsvill
    The nickel brass probably reacts different to the resizing process in reloading . Would be my guess. I have never tried reloading nickel rifle brass.
    I have a question though!!
    What is the material that is used in pistol ammo cases?? Is it not nickel plated brass???
     

  3. Kip Brandel

    Kip Brandel New Member

    Messages:
    502
    State:
    Glasgow, Kentuc
    I load ALL of my hunting loads for my 25-06 @ 30-06 with nickle plated brass and varmint loads in plain brass. NO issues and I am above normal pressures on my 25-06 and below on my 30-06 with 2-4 loads in each type of shell. My 223 loads are loaded in both nickle and std also. I load a few weights for each caliber and I use the cases to let me know at a glance which it is, I also color the base of the shell with a Sharpe if I did something different with it so I know which one I have. When developing a load I used to have to drive 30+ miles to the range so I would pick a bullet and powder and load 6 rounds, adjust the powder and load 6, adjust and load...... starting at minimum listed and slowly work up in powder. I would color each 6 with a different color Sharpe and put a color dot on the record for that load. I could go to the range then and see which load did best and by looking at the shell I knew which load it was. There are MANY MANY sites that sell once fired nickle coated brass for a premium price compared to std brass. Also the nickle coated brass slides in and out of the dies easier than the std brass so you can get it resized easier.
    I also was shooting about 1000 rounds a week through my 45acp and I used any brass I could get and some of those cases have 8-10 loads on them now. They are VERY light pressure wise but the cases work great.
     
  4. Snagged2

    Snagged2 New Member

    Messages:
    6,252
    State:
    Verde Valley AZ
    Good question,,
    I use both and reload for my 7mmRem Mag,
    I acquired a bunch of nickel cases and did have some problems running them through the re-sizeing die. More than I care for, I'd get a case stuck in the die:sad2:
    so, I'd make sure that I have a real good coating of lube on the nickel ones, and I kind of work the case into the die,, Until the inside of the die is good and coated. I haven't done those in awhile, but, it seems I was using a mica powder also.. Was kind of a hassle and I basically went to brass only and don't have that problem anymore. I have a lot of Premium factory ammo nickel plated and when that's all shot up, I'll probably sell the nickel cases to someone ,,,

    Regarding the pistol cases,, Most pistol reloading dies are tungsten carbide and lube isn't necessary so, no problems w/ those..
     
  5. xringer3

    xringer3 New Member

    Messages:
    950
    State:
    Oklahoma
    Hmmmm, I didn't know I couldn't reload nickle cases, been doing it for years. I use the brass cases for practice and sighting in and the nickle for hunting loads. As long as I use the same brand for both, the impact doesn't change. I like the nickle as they don't tarnish or get corroded in damp climates. I usually only neck size though and use the Lyman necksizer, so there's no danger of cases getting stuck in the die.
     
  6. katfish ken

    katfish ken New Member

    Messages:
    4,092
    State:
    Paintsvill
    In my experience neck sizing lends to better accuracy than full length resizing. As long as you keep the cartridge with the same gun it was originally fired in you should have no problem.
     
  7. Snagged2

    Snagged2 New Member

    Messages:
    6,252
    State:
    Verde Valley AZ
    Yepper, neck sizing doesn't get near the drag on the die as full length resizing ,,, makes sense.. I usually full length re-size and had to really lube the cases up..
    Don't fergit, to lube the inside of the neck,,,,

    Nickel coated brass is good stuff , more impervious to elements, corrosion, looks really cool,,,,ya,ya, blah..

    I just hate pulling a stuck case out of my reloading die..

    I'd be happy to know a superior lube that PREVENTS the occurance..
     
  8. Kip Brandel

    Kip Brandel New Member

    Messages:
    502
    State:
    Glasgow, Kentuc
    Wish I had an answer for you. I use RCBS liquid lube and a lube pad and have not had one stuck case yet. (Knock on wood)
     
  9. canebreaker

    canebreaker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,307
    State:
    Southaven,MS
    I reload a bunch of .38spl.
    both brass and nichel.
    What I have found is the
    nichel splits sooner than the brass.
    Since the case is about an inch
    long. I'll toss it with a 1/4 inch
    split. When expanding the neck
    your opening up the split and not
    expanding the neck. If split gets to
    long I need the extra presser of the
    wood shooters bench to press cases
    out of chamber.
     
  10. Snagged2

    Snagged2 New Member

    Messages:
    6,252
    State:
    Verde Valley AZ
    Jimmy,
    I've run into the same thing,, if I notice a split anymore I just toss'm:sad2:

    On the Nickel Rifle cases, I sure like the anit-corrosion feature,, I think I have a neck sizer for my 7mm, and will try that , see how it goes..As well as getting some different lube, like the RCBS mentioned.. I'm currently using an aerosol from Midway...
     
  11. canebreaker

    canebreaker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,307
    State:
    Southaven,MS
    I bought 50 lbs. of .38spl cases from a scrap dealer.
    I had lots of both brass and nichel.
    First thing was to tumble them, most came out clean.
    Some had a dark spot on them. So to work on buffing
    them on a steel wheel. A touch of the wheel and a hole
    was in the case. So I lost about 150 cases. After a good
    day shooting, I lose about 5 more.
    Add them to my scrap, return some of the money I lost.

    I mold .357 swc 158 gr. and 120 gr. rn. along with sinkers
    and jigheads. Hooks for jigheads are about a nichel each.
    I can buy bulk jigheads for a nichel each.
     
  12. Whistling Dixie

    Whistling Dixie New Member

    Messages:
    52
    State:
    Texas
    I too load nickel caes for my Father in Law and have found them to be an excellent performer in his 30-06. He's an occasional shooter and is a bit absent minded so the nickel performs better when he forgets to dry out his gear or leaves it in the backseat of his truck for weeks on end. It has been my experience that the cases need to be absolutely clean and free of any tarnished or blemished spots. These imperfections can cause the case to stick in the die. Secondly an even coat of case lube is a must, without it you can definelty stick a case. Finally, I've been told that the nickel is harder than the die material and it can scratch your dies if points one and two are not followed. I've never had a proble dealing with it but I always follow points one and two religiously. Also watch your case mouths sometimes the nickel will try to seperate or flake following trimming, if this occurs I always discard the case, I don't take chances.
     
  13. kcgmatt

    kcgmatt New Member

    Messages:
    26
    State:
    MO
    It is my understanding that the nickle plating is much harder than the brass itself. I neck size only and have had no problems with any of the different calibers that I load for. Using mica and a carbide expander button works for me.
     
  14. canebreaker

    canebreaker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,307
    State:
    Southaven,MS
    Next time you find some cracked brass and nichel cases, try pliers on them
    to flatten them. Not much difference but you will tell the difference.