Anchors & anchoring

Discussion in 'Boating' started by Scott Daw, Jan 19, 2007.

  1. Scott Daw

    Scott Daw New Member

    Allentown, Pennsylvania
    Ok, I finally got my bonus & between that & xmas, Im finally getting my canoe!!! Now what do I do for an anchor? what do you all do, how do you choose one & rig it? do you go anchor to chain to rope or is it ok on a small craft to go anchor to rope? I was considering the river anchor since its kinda like the mushroom but its clover leafed so it has xtra bite. I'll be using it primarily in lakes. How much anchor rope do you need?


    I'M PSYCHED~!! No more boat rental fees or having to make sure im back fast enough so I dont have to pay because I was 15 min late to dock. hehehehe
  2. thecatman

    thecatman Well-Known Member

    Graham, Texas,
    for my small boat i use window wieghts they seem to do the trick plus they arent heavy enough to slow you down when their in the canoe/small watercraft another option if available is to tie off to a nearby tree

    look around your house for some heavier peices of metal that isnt going to be used sometimes you can make great anchors out of nothing at all

  3. beakus

    beakus New Member

    derby kansas
    look in cabales or bps they make a nice looking fold up anchor for small craft,as for rope i would use a short piece of chain(about 1-11/2ft) that helps keep your anchor at the right attatude to keep doug into the bottom.for rope length i go with a 3x rule,3x the length is 3x the average depth i fish in.
  4. metalman

    metalman Well-Known Member

    You must use an anchor that works by weight, not by hooking the bottom. If you use the latter and it gets hooked around something that won't give you will have very little chance of getting it back. You cannot apply enough pulling force without risking turning the canoe over and paddle power will not pull it free either.
    Use a simple weight to anchor your canoe. Window weights have been mentioned or you could consider making your own from a large coffee can full of cement. Get a galvanized eye bolt and put a large fender washer between two nuts on the threaded end. Stick that end into the cement before it goes off. You can also use the ring gears that repair shops take out when they do a rear end rebuild. Even a cinder block works well.
    With a weight anchor you don't need chain. Cabela's sell a thing called a Brush Gripper. They are great for fastening on to tree limbs. As for rope the 3X as mentioned is a good guide.
    Keep a sharp knife handy at all times. On rivers you may have to cut the rope in a hurry if a big log or tree floats down and gets caught up in the rope. Even on a lake if a party barge full of yeahoos is bearing down on you there may not be time to untie. Have fun, be safe...W
  5. catter5000

    catter5000 New Member

    Gotta agree with metalman on this one. For the size of boat your useing about anything will work. I like the coffee can best,I use double roop,that way if it gets snagged I just untie one end and let the rope slip through the bolt.All you lose is a can of cement.JMO Allen
  6. BAM

    BAM New Member

    I agree with the coffee can, or a cardboard box filled with quickcrete if you don't have a can. A sturdy bag filled with rocks will work too. The possibility's are endless for this one.
  7. gilmafam

    gilmafam Well-Known Member

    I have had great success using a chain for my boats. For a canoe, Id get 3-4 ft of 3/8 chain and attach to a rope. The amount of rope out will control a drift, or more rope out will stop the canoe? Forget the bruch grapper. get pvc pipe and make a noose out the end, and just place it over a branch etc or tules, and pull tight and tie off. Id make a 3ft pvc pipe noose.

    bayrunner ray
  8. Kutter

    Kutter New Member

    Arnold, MO
    Window weights are hard to beat in a small craft like a canoe. One other option is a burlap bag or similar. When you get to where you are going, put a few rocks in it and tie the rope on. When ready to leave, dump the rocks and you won't have to lug the extra weight around getting back.
  9. Hootowlc3

    Hootowlc3 New Member

    I have used 10 lb weights I found at yard sales. I did have a 10 lb dumbbell I used but lost it. I think I gave $3 for it at a yard sale.
  10. Wooly

    Wooly New Member

    I like the idea of a double loop, how deep can you use it without it causing to long of a delay before the anchor sets. I'm looking at keeping the loss of anchor rope down. Maybe I'm nickel and dimeing but don't we all?
  11. chipblevins

    chipblevins New Member

    salem, va
    Old Town makes a anchor system for canoes that works great. It attaches to the canoe and has a pulley on it so you can release and raise anchor with little effort or movement. I cant recall what i paid for mine, I think around 40 bucks?
  12. dudlbugr

    dudlbugr New Member

    Cleveland, AL
    Good idea on the double rope. Odds are, if you're in a lake, you're probably not looking at an awful lot of rope to double it up and just pull it through if it does get hung. Also a good idea on the weight vs. grapple idea. With a canoe, you can't afford to depend on being able to pull a hung anchor out without tipping the canoe.
    As for the brush clamp or the pvc rope and whatever, learn to tie a clove hitch! Cabela's doesn't sell clove hitches, but there are plenty of places on the web, including right here on the BOC, that can teach you to tie one... Look here:
    Tie it to a tree limb, and you're there, unless the limb breaks or comes out of the bottom.

    As for length of rope required, well, "it depends" is the best answer I can give you. I fish the Mississippi, and in one of my favorite places to fish, I can anchor in about 70 ft of water with about 75 feet of rope! In other places, I anchor in 25 feet of water with nigh on to 125 feet! A good rule of thumb is to have a minimum of 3 to 1. Some folks will tell you as much as 10 to 1. Might better figure on at leat 5 to 1, until you get it figured out. Let's face it: rope is cheap! I fish on 1/4 to 3/8" nylon braid in the Ol' Man, and that's as much as 7 to 10 knots current. In a lake, you're gonna see a lot less, I 'magine. 100 ft of 1/4" costs around $3 to $4, depending on what Wally has in it on the day I buy it.
    'Course, I don't know much about anchoring in a lake: Sometimes in low current I fish on a front and rear anchor. Just something to keep the stern from swinging too much, so you might need twice as much rope as you figured!

    Good luck, tight lines, and don't be scared to change you're anchor rope every once in a while!