Aluminum boat bench seats

Discussion in 'Boat Repair Help' started by countryboy32c, Aug 23, 2009.

  1. countryboy32c

    countryboy32c New Member

    Messages:
    114
    State:
    Lansing, KS
    I bought an aluminum flat bottom. The pop rivets that hold the bench seats to the boat are popping loose how hard is this to fix and how would i go about it? And does this hurt the boat any?
     
  2. 320hotrod

    320hotrod New Member

    Messages:
    356
    State:
    KCMO
    I lost a few rivets on an older Lowe I had years ago, and paid a feller to repair for me. After watching him, I bought my own rivet gun and saved mucho dinero on future repairs. What I learned was to make sure the areas are flat around the rivet holes, the holes are not wallowed out, and the rivet is sized correctly fo rthe hole, especially if you have to drill it out to make it round again. Manual rivet guns are inexpensive, pneumatic are a bit more but imo much better. Don't forget to use rubber sealant if you have thru-hole repairs, and good luck!
     

  3. Jollymon

    Jollymon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,619
    State:
    Wilm .N.C
    Rick ,the seats in the boat do add to the strength of the boat ,so if you repair them u will be adding strenght back to the boat
     
  4. countryboy32c

    countryboy32c New Member

    Messages:
    114
    State:
    Lansing, KS
    I was told to put the sealer around the hole before i rivet it does that make a difference?
     
  5. 320hotrod

    320hotrod New Member

    Messages:
    356
    State:
    KCMO
    More importantly, you want to put the sealant between the panels to be rivetted.
     
  6. gilmafam

    gilmafam Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,466
    State:
    California
    I'd say its best to use the sealer.... I did not rivet my alum boats... I just drilled a 1/4 hole and put stainless screws in with lock nuts on the inside..

    Takes a friend to help you... but did my 12' semi vee that way when I moved the seats around and other modifications...

    just put the RTV silicone sealer on the 1/4-20 machine screw and tighten it up....

    I've just taken a photo to show what I have done.... actually it is the rib that is bolted now...as seen by the "slot-head" screws... then, on the inside is one of the ribs with the nylon lock nut

    baot is un-painted on the outside... but grey on the inside to keep things cooler....:cool2:

    Good luck

    bayrunner Ray
     
  7. 320hotrod

    320hotrod New Member

    Messages:
    356
    State:
    KCMO
    I see you've got the same OCD as me; gotta align all the screw slots in the same direction!
     
  8. catman-j

    catman-j New Member

    Messages:
    1,020
    State:
    Eastern Nebr


    :smile2::smile2::smile2::smile2::smile2::smile2:
     
  9. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    I agree with Ray. That is a good way to permently fix the rivits but I would use 3M-5200 sealant. I have used both and 3m is the only one that has holding power and sealing power below the water line. It takes it about 72 hrs to dry but you can't beat it.
     
  10. cantstopgrandma

    cantstopgrandma New Member

    Messages:
    955
    State:
    MD
    BubbaKat is right, 5200 is the stuff. I've seen professional contractors use it on roofs with excellent results.
     
  11. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    5200 can take up to a week to fully cure.
    You can also go with the 4500. Cures quicker.

    Don't get real happy with sealing things with 5200. You can tear a boat apart trying to get what you glued down off:big_smile:

    I've seen outboards that were sealed to the hull of a boat with 5200. When the motor was taken off the transom was delaminated. Bad day on the boat yard.

    5200 permanent
    4500 semi permanent.