Asyou will see in the pic, the bunks on my trailer extend out about 6 inches when the boat is fully winched up. I want to move the winch post doo-daddy rearwards soI have more choices to play with my transducer location so the bunk will not hit it. As long as I keep the bunk within say three inches of the transom edge, is this enough support? I'd just like a couple of inches to spare in case I overrun the boat when trailering to avoid hitting the transducer. Dumb question but want to make darn sure the boat is still supported properly (they ain't cheap toys).:roll_eyes:
I'm not saying I have mine adjusted the correct way, but I positioned the boat on the trailer so the bottom edge of the transom is directly above the center roller. I then marked the location of the stern on the bunks and cut them off at that point - recarpeting them as I made the modification. Once I had the boat positioned as to where I wanted it on the trailer, I moved the bow roller, winch, and its support bracket to where it needed to be and fastend it there. Final adjustment was tounge weight. With the boat positioned as it was, there was no tounge weight to mention. So, floated the boat at the local lake, loosend the clamps holding the frame to the axle and repositioned the boat so I would have tounge weight. Trailers real good now, is easy to launch, and the boat is properly supported on the trailer.
I had the same probelm with my seaark,but moving my boat back made the front end too light when trailering.I took out the staples on the carpet and cut them to the length i needed and stapled the carpet back down.It looks like factory. sorry didn't see post
My tongue weight is pretty heavy now it seems. The single axle is pretty far back on the trailer. Do you think 6 inches would matter much? I think I meant to say I would need to move it six inches total after I was done. Thats not how I typed it though.:tounge_out:
When you move it back and give it a try you can always change it back how it is now. That is if you figure out you lost more tongue weight than you wanted to. Just plain on some time at the ramp when you try it. Take it for a test drive with the boat setting back that far before you decide anything that cannot be easily reversed. If that makes any sense at all?:confused2::crazy:oooh::big_smile: Thanks David
i am doing the same thing with my polarcraft right now... it has 4" of wood sticking out past the boat so i am moving everything back a little so it is flush.. you are right that little bit isnt going to hurt how it tows at all i have had boats that were darn near balanced when off the ball and they pulled fine
By moving the axle forward, you will reduce some of that tounge weight. Most factory built trailers all ready have holes drilled in them at various intervals. You simply get the weight off the trailer (that why I put mine in the lake..LOL) remove the four bolts (two on each side...think they are 3/4 inch carriage bolts) and either slide the frame backwards on the axle or the axle forward on the frame. You'll find the sweet spot in there somewhere. You do want some tounge weight, but not enough to break your back.
You can move a boat anywhere you want to on that trailer as long as you keep at least 10 to 15% of it total weight on the tounge. If you don't you are inviting trouble. You may pull it a 100 time without a problem but if she ever starts walking with you you can't stop it until its did its damage. I would do as lawerance suggested or if its pulling good in the position it is now then just cut the ends off and go on about your business.
Mine is so heavy from the dealer already that I can't even lift it without the tongue jack. LOL It squats my 1/2 ton full size truck as it is!oooh: Pulls down the road good though.
A friend of mine had a boat that got dents in the bottom where the runners ended. They were about 3" short. He had that repaired and new runners that were under the transom, No more problems.
If the bunks end before the transom you may get what is called a hook; the dents mentioned above. Hooks can adversely affect the performance of your boat. Absolutely do not cut the bunks too short...W
Mine sets were the it stops flush so it doesn't take my transducer out . It sets right inline with one of guide rails.
If you position the transducer outside of the bunks a couple of inches, you should not have any problems with clearance. Mine is three inches to the right of my starboard bunk, and the bunk is about one inch past the transom for support. Good luck.
By the time I move far enough away from the prop, then miss the rib of the hull, then miss the livewell pump intake, then the bunk, then another rib or two, I am almost outta boat! LOL Have some other issues with hull design and trapped air channeling under the hull which is killing my high speed ops. Need to have several areas to play around in so the bunk has to move. Went and measured it, only have to slide the boat back 3 1/2 inches to give me clearance and the bunks will be flush with the transom which still works.
Unfortunately the tape measure does not lie when it comes to how much boat is left. I have learned that lesson the hard way several times. Sounds like you may have it figured out though. Good luck.
???????? Well it's currently winched up tight and I have 3 1/2 inches of bunk protruding past my transom. Maybe I'll slide the winch post back three inches to be safe and keep an eye on where it ends up the next several times I load it on the trailer.
