abu7000 tuning and distance casting info

Discussion in 'Catfishing Library' started by Tiny, Feb 24, 2007.

  1. Tiny

    Tiny New Member

    Ambassadeur 7000 Tuning and Distance Casting Information

    By Tim Smith(Tiny)

    There are serveral things you can do to improve performance in abu 7000c3 reels. C3 is a general term of a 3 bearing reel .. two on the spool shaft and one on the crank. The most important thing to do is to have the spool full of line or a little overfilled will cast even further. Smaller line diameter also helps, but you can't go too small, because if you backlash a little with line diameter smaller than say .37mm or so, the line can get between the spool and the frame of the reel. And if this happens, you should never pull on the line to get it out because it'll break the clicker spring. It just seems to always get fouled on the clicker for some reason. I've messed up a couple of clicker springs by doing that. So if you get line between the spool and frame never pull on it .. take the thumb screws loose and pull the spool out a little to get the line out.

    The smallest line you can use on a 7000c3 is 15 lb ande ... if you're using a surf rod you can use lighter line with a shock line of 50 lb test and tie it on the 15 lb test using an albright knot. Just do a search on the net and you can find animated gifs on how to tie an albright knot. Or just go to www.marinews.com and navigate through their site to the animated gifs. When tying on a shock line, you’ll want it long enough to make about 5 wraps on the spool, and out to the end of the rod, then back down to the reel seat is normally enough to tie on your terminal gear. The sinker should be on bottom with the hook tied onto the shock line with a dropper loop about 2 ft above the sinker ... for maximum distance with this rig the shorter the dropper loop the better off you are. If you use a long dropper loop the bait will helecopter behind the sinker and reduce casting distance dramatically. Also larger baits will reduce casting distance. A large shad head will slow the cast down more than a shad fillet. Also when casting a larger bait you have to have more backlash control. With a spool full of 15 lb test ande, one medium sized brake block and one small one, this is about as fast as you can get the reel with a shad fillet. You actually need two medium sized brake blocks in the reel with a full spool of line or overfilled slightly.

    If your reel is too fast with 1 medium sized brake block and a small one like would go on a 5500, then go up in size to two medium sized brake blocks. The size and number of brake blocks determine how fast your reel will be. If it's too fast then it'll backlash on you. To achieve maximum distance out of your abu 7000 with the amount of line you have on your reel you don't want to have to ride the spool with your thumb. By doing that you slow the spool too much and it inhibits the cast dramatically. You want to have the brake blocks set so that when you release the spool at the beginning of the cast you shouldn't have to touch it again until it hits the water. A properly adjusted reel will give you just maybe a little bit of fluff of the line and that's as fast as you can go. If you have the reel faster than that then you'll have to ride your thumb on the spool. Also if you have to ride your thumb on the spool, always ride it on the metal of the spool on the side instead of on the line ... if you ride your thumb on the line that just adds to the backlash and will actually throw a half-hitch on the spool and break your line right where the line has crossed itself by your attempt to slow the spool by riding your thumb over the loose line. When power casting this is a very critical point. I have run my reels too fast quite a bit over the years as I'll overfill the spool. And if I've got 1.5 brake blocks in it and put on a big shad head I know it's going to be too fast for the bigger bait so I'll be ready to apply pressure to the side of the spool or I'll apply a little primary spool tension with the knob on the side plate to give a little more resistance as the cast is headed out. So the brake blocks are what you should use for the primary backlash control and the side plate primary spool tension is for fine tuning.

    The size of the shock line all depends on the rod and the amount of centrifugal force you're putting on the cast. If you're capable of hitting 200yds with a large shad head then you'll need a 50 lb shock line. That's what I have to have when I'm casting that far with 6oz lead and bait. If I use 40 lb test it'll break on the cast every time. Now if you're capable of 150 yds then 30 lb test may be all you need. The rod is the most important part of this scenario along with good upper body strength, good hand eye coordination and a good amount of knowledge of centrifugal force.

    The unitech cast will generate more force than a hatteras cast for instance where the sinker is closer to the caster's body when the cast is made, it's more fluid as it comes around and creates a lot more stress on the cast than the hatteras cast. The hatteras cast throws the sinker out right before the cast is made causing the sinker to actually come back towards the caster and then out. I came up with a cast down at Keystone long before I ever got involved in tournaments that was named the sleeper cast or swinging cast. They call it the swinging unitech now. It is where you swing the bait out, then back towards you and as it starts to fall away from the rod, you cast. This cast generates a lot of centrifugal force and requires a really stiff rod to do it properly. Flimsy rods don't cast nearly as far as stiffer rods. Like the breakaway rods compared to an eagle claw or shakespeare rod. Also the Oceanmaster 6 to 12 oz rods are that stiff. Daiwa Eliminator rods are stiff enough to do the swinging unitech also with a 6 oz lead.

    But back to reel tuning ... You want to also use an oil on the bearings that'll hold up. And if you're using a levelwind reel, you absolutely must keep them clean and can't haul them in the back of your vehicle without taking them off the rod and putting them in a camera bag that you can zip up to keep the dirt off them. Just a little bit of dirt will ruin a levelwind worse than anything. I have used several oils on my reels, and the best I've used is 5w20 motor oil. It protects the bearings and makes them cast really smooth as well. I also use a little more brake blocks, like two medium sized brake blocks and I'll put a drop of 3n1 oil on the brake blocks to make them run inside the brake drum more smoothly.

    You have to cast smooth also. You can't cast a baitcaster the same as you do a spinning rod where you allow the tip of the rod to dip down like they do when the line is released on the spinning rods. If you do it'll speed up the spool faster than the line is going out just for an instant and then when the rod tip flips back up you'll get a massive blow up. The release needs to be a slipping release so that the rod tip doesn't dip down at the end of the cast. You'll start to let the spool slip at about 12 or 1 oclock and be off of it at 11 or 10:30. If your rod tip goes below about 10 oclock then you're line driving your cast. That means you're looking at the target instead of looking up at about 45 degrees. Always look up when you're casting a surf rod instead of at the water.

    Power generation should be mostly coming from your left hand when casting surf rods. When I'm showing people how to cast I say picture yourself bear hunting with a 14 ft stick and you're going to knock a bear off a limb with that stick. You're not going to poke at it with your right hand or upper hand, you're going to bring the rod around your body, using your right hand mostly for a fulcrum, pulling down hard with your left hand, bringing the rod smoothly around your body, instead of using the surf rod like a short pole where you end up looking like the statue of liberty with the right arm poking at the sky and left hand being the fulcrum. That's the way you cast short poles but not how you cast surf rods.

    The best tuning you can do on an abu 7000 is to overfill the spool just a little. Maybe 1/16th of an inch and two medium sized brake blocks, and they'll cast a mile like that. The smaller diameter the line, the better on casting distance. You can't break 20 lb test with a surf rod's backbone so there's no need to use more than 20 lb test on a 12.5 to 14 ft rod . Shorter rods require heavier line per amount of pressure you put on the rod handle above the reel. The leverage on a short rod is about twice that of a surf rod. You can put 20 lbs pressure on the surf rod handle and it'll equal about 5 lbs at the rod tip. Don't believe me? Try to pick up a five pound weight with a surf rod and you'll see. Then try to pick a 5 lb weigh with a short rod like an ugly stick and it'll be twice as easy. Some people think that since it's a longer rod they're able to put more pressure on the fish, but that's not correct. The longer the rod, the less amount of pressure you're actually putting on the fish per lb pressure on the rod handle. Some will use 80 lb test on a surf rod when they can't actually put more than 20 lb pressure on the rod tip. Try picking up a 20 lb weight with a surf rod. It's really hard to do and not a lot of surf rods could handle picking up a 20 lb weight.

    Casting at dams usually doesn't give you enough room to do a pendulum cast. That's usually the scenario that catfishermen are faced with. That's why I've recommended the unitech or the swinging unitech cast as you can use these casts anywhere you can throw a surf rod. If you fish where there's not a lot of people or trees or rocks behind you then you may wish to use the pendulum cast. There are videos available that can instruct you on how to do a Pendlum Cast. I also have a few videos on how to do a few casts like the Pendlum Cast and Swining Unitech Cast or Tornado Cast. I wouldn't recommend the tornado cast because it's a little dangerous, but it'll give you a good idea of how to use centrifugal force when you're casting.