A Simple but Cheap DP Coon Set (part One)

Discussion in 'Trapping & Fur Taking' started by RetiredToFish, Oct 28, 2008.

  1. RetiredToFish

    RetiredToFish New Member

    Messages:
    1,186
    State:
    Newark, Ohio
    Dog Proof Raccoon Traps have become very popular in the last couple of years. There are any number of them on the market, but if you have purchased any of them you know they are quite costly and have varying degrees of complexity when trying to set some of them. Some of them even require a special tool to set them. What most of us don’t need is another tool to carry or keep track of.

    I saw a great and inexpensive way to dog proof your traps on another sight and asked permission from the originator to post it here. It does require one item other than a trap and that is a piece of wood. The common thing used is a piece of plywood approximately 12” x 14”. I recommend not going out and buying a new sheet of plywood, but using scaps that you find laying around the house or the barn.

    When I decided to try and make a couple of the boards ... I of course didn't have any plywood to use. On the trash pile of wood to burn, I found several old cupboard doors. They look pretty rough, but that is good. If I use them in places around public areas they will just blend in with some of the other trash that is there ... and maybe attract less curiosity.

    Now my cupboard doors were a little bit larger than the specified 12” x 14”, they were 12½” x 18”. I don’t blieve the difference in size will amount to anything other than transporting them to and from set sight.

    TOOLS NEEDED:

    1 – 5/8” Drill bit
    1 – Hole drill bit either 1½” or 1 ¾”
    1 – Drill

    With your Hole cutter bit drill a hole as near to the center of the board as you can.

    Next, come in from two opposing corners and drill a hole with the 5/8” drill bit … these should be a couple of inches in. That is all there is to making your board.

    (See CoonBoardNo1.jpg)

    I will explain how to use it and the purpose of the different holes.

    The recommended traps would be anything you are comfortable catching a coon with. My preference would be either a No. 1½ coil or long spring or a No. 2 coil spring. In my illustrations I chose the No.2 coil. I would suggest that you make a practice set to be sure that all is well.

    Dig a hole that will accomadate your selection of trap when it is set. The unset trap will be smaller than a set one. Also make sure that your hole is deep enough that when the trap is in the closed position it will not hit the board which will be covering it.

    (See CoonBoardNo2.jpg) & (See CoonBoardNo3.jpg)
     

    Attached Files:

  2. RetiredToFish

    RetiredToFish New Member

    Messages:
    1,186
    State:
    Newark, Ohio

    Now you will want to stake your trap and set it and firmly place it in your hole. Seat it like you would any other set trap, so it doesn’t wobble or tip.

    Before you place the board over the the trap you need to know what you are going to use for bait. My preference is something sweet, like marshmellows. What I plan on doing is taking a large mashmellow and wiring it to the pan. This way the coon will have to work to get it free and in doing so trigger the trap. I will also lay 1 or 2 small ones on the top of the board near the hole. My other baiting method will to be taking a small square of sheepskin and gluing or wiring it to the pan and putting a few drops of anise or other sweet oil on the sheepskin. This way when they reach through the hole they will have something to feel and try and remove it.

    Now place your board over the trap centering the large center hole directly over the pan.

    (See CoonBoardNo4.jpg)

    Now we are almost done …. Locate 2 sticks, either green or dry, about 6” to 8” long and stick one in each of the 2 opposing 5/8” holes. The reason for these two sticks are not to permenantly pen the board, but to keep the raccoon from flipping the board over when he first discovers the bait. So it should be pretty stable to start with.

    Some people now cover the board with a light covering of dirt, but I don’t think this is required. I kick a little debree on it to give it a natural appearance and you are finished.

    I would also suggest that if you use a newer piece of plywood or of like wood, you might get some mud and muddy it up good. Don’t think this would hurt. Good luck this season and if I missed something … feel free to ask. ……. Garry-

    (See CoonBoardNo5.jpg)
     

    Attached Files:


  3. RetiredToFish

    RetiredToFish New Member

    Messages:
    1,186
    State:
    Newark, Ohio
    Here is a photo that was posted by Matt on another sight .... you can see just how effective the set can be .....
     

    Attached Files:

  4. jodster

    jodster New Member

    Messages:
    69
    State:
    texas
    That is freaking cool !!!
     
  5. williambevels

    williambevels New Member

    Messages:
    44
    State:
    alabama
    i use that set and it works.
    you can put these out before season and prebait with sour corn or sweet feed to get the coons a custom of feeding there.

    also you can take flour or sifter dirt on itand then spray a fine coat of water..this will leave the dirt dam and you can tell how many coons are working the set by keeping track of the different size tracks,also this helps as well on giving you a basic idea when to move,also by prebait before season you know if your locations are good and gives you plenty of time to move to other locations
     
  6. RetiredToFish

    RetiredToFish New Member

    Messages:
    1,186
    State:
    Newark, Ohio
    Good input William .... I like that idea and shall give it a try ....
     
  7. CountryHart

    CountryHart New Member

    Messages:
    10,914
    State:
    missouri
    heck of an idea!!! This eliminates hawks, owls etc. Also any chance of a coon knawin out. Thanks Garry, reps to ya bro.
     
  8. RetiredToFish

    RetiredToFish New Member

    Messages:
    1,186
    State:
    Newark, Ohio
    Thanks John .... a couple of the guys that have used these quite a bit tell me that sometimes an old bore coon will make tooth picks out of one of these boards if they are in there too long ... Of course don't think they could do much chewing on anything if they had both front feet in the trap like the one in the photo ....... :eek:oooh: .... Garry-
     
  9. gooboy

    gooboy New Member

    Messages:
    1,514
    State:
    Minden,La.
    This set has been around a long time. It is not commonly used because of the damage that can be caused by the animal after it has been caught in the trap. Broken legs and severe rubbing on the legs and body are the main problems with this setup. Definately not a very humane setup. These problems do not occur every time, but.......we catch enough crap from the anti's without using substandard practices such as this.

    Sorry for knocking your advice Garry, but I wanted to give an honest report, from mistakes that I have made in the past.
     
  10. RetiredToFish

    RetiredToFish New Member

    Messages:
    1,186
    State:
    Newark, Ohio
    Thank you for your input Eric ... No offence taken. With your input that tells me I need to check those sets the first thing. I only have 2 choices, as I am sure some other do because of some of the location I have which have a lot of houses around, with dogs running everywhere. I do have a couple of regular DP traps and only a couple because my budget doesn't allow me to have more and the same with live traps. So I am forced to use what I have and can make or not trap these areas. Two of the places are golf courses they want the coon gone.

    The input you gave is very valid and does give me concern, but I will give them a try and if the prove to be to detrimental I will stop using them.

    Thanks ....... Garry-
     
  11. rush_60

    rush_60 New Member

    Messages:
    1,719
    State:
    Troy, KS
    Good post garry. I wonder if you could cut it down the middle through the hole and have two seperate boards. Then when a coon would get caught the boards break away, and the coon is free from the wood. it would take a few more stakes to keep the coons from flipping it though. something to test.
     
  12. RetiredToFish

    RetiredToFish New Member

    Messages:
    1,186
    State:
    Newark, Ohio
    Casey .... that is a very good point and something that I will consider the next one I make. I would see having to drill at least (3) holes in each half to keep it from being flipped .... Garry-
     
  13. gooboy

    gooboy New Member

    Messages:
    1,514
    State:
    Minden,La.
    Casey, great idea. If you could rig the sets up this way, the boards would no longer become a problem after the catch is made.

    Garry, you might be able to use existing rocks or sod in the areas to hold the boards in place until a catch is made. That would be better than having to use extra stakes.