88hp Johnson

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by droptine77, Oct 19, 2007.

  1. droptine77

    droptine77 New Member

    Messages:
    469
    State:
    Anderson, SC
    I have a 1989 88hp Johnson that here lately has started dying at wide open throttle. It will run fine and then shut off. Once it comes to a stop I can get to start back up and it will continue run fine. Its no big deal now but, I'm afraid it will not start back up one day. Any ideas?
     
  2. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    Could be fuel starvation. Could be a defective coil. Could be you maybe just ought to give me the motor so you'll not be stranded. LOL
     

  3. catfishjon

    catfishjon New Member

    Messages:
    156
    State:
    texas
    Suspect fuel starvation first. Check and replace fuel line hose and bulb if suspect. The tank vent could be inop, line or connections sucking air, low volumn of fuel delivery from the pump, crud in the carb, ect. Try a different tank and hose for exemple. If it still does it, suspect the carbs. I suggest you take it to a good boat motor mechanic after you have done these things. He is worth the money. Catfishjon
     
  4. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    Lets wait for Bubbakat before we get to hasty. So far I have not found anything on my motors that I could not do, especially with a manual for that particular motor. Got a 50 HP Johnson and a 70 HP 'rude... both had problems but are now purring like a kitty cat with a plate of fish. I may take it to a mechanic if it requires a complete overhaul, but before it gets to that point, I have wrenches and screwdrivers. All you have to do is read and look at the pictures. LOL If you screw it up, then take it to the mechanic. Cost you about the same.
     
  5. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    When it shuts off does it die real quick or dies down in a slow like manner.
     
  6. droptine77

    droptine77 New Member

    Messages:
    469
    State:
    Anderson, SC
    It sounds like it dies fast but it also sounds like the prop is still turning the motor. It sounds horrible.
     
  7. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    The kill switch or the ing switch itself could have a short in it and causing this at random times. I would do a compression check and spark test and also go over the wireing in under the cowling and in the key switch with a good close visual inspection to see if you have any wires loose.
    A fuel starvation will most times make one surge or die down at a slow pace but electronics brack down will act like you just turned the key off while in forward motion.
    Be sure to check that key switch over real close. Get it on the water and wiggle the wires and the key switch to see if it will shut down.
     
  8. droptine77

    droptine77 New Member

    Messages:
    469
    State:
    Anderson, SC
    Went back out today and the engine did it again. Earlier this week I went thru everything I could to find a lose wire but was not able to find anything. Today when it happened I was able to get it to neutral pretty fast and the engine kept running although very rough. I tried to throttle up and it would only run about 2500rpms. I pulled it back to neutral and it died. I finally got it to start and it ran fine back to the boat ramp. I only have about 10 hairs left on my head and I am about to pull them out!:angry:
     
  9. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Greg that sounds like a fuel problem then. I would start at the tank and pull the pick up tube out of the tank and if the lines are over 2 years old I would replace every one of them. Be sure to check that pick up tube entering the tank. It is the one located belown the tank top inside. Check the fuel pump. Take the line from the fuel pump to the carb off and crank the motor over and see if its squirting out the hose good. If you find all that good then the carbs would be the next thing. You can take the air box off and take a small bottle of premix and when it tries to shut down then squirt the fuel into the carb throat and see if this fires it back up to par.

    Did you do a compression check and spart test. I need to know the color and type of plug you are useing and need to know the color as to what cylinder they come out of.
    You can also lay two fingers inside the throat of the carb while its running and if it smooths out or speeds up then the carb is faulty. Needs rebuilding with a good soaking to clean it.
     
  10. droptine77

    droptine77 New Member

    Messages:
    469
    State:
    Anderson, SC
    Sorry it took so long to get back but between work and the family it has been hard to find the time. The fuel lines between the tank and the engine including the bubble are new. I did a compression check and I admit to me it is out of wack. Looking at the back of the engine TL-101, BL-96, TR-108,and BR-90. All the plugs Looked like someone took them out of the local junkyard. They all were dark, grimey and flakey with what look like rust but I'm not sure if it was. They were Champion QL82C. When I bought this boat 2 months ago I was told they were new and the carbs were rebuilt. I took the fuel line off from the pump to the carbs and when I squeeze the bubble a good stream of fuel comes out but when my wife turned the engine over it kinda just spit and sprayed but no stream. Thanks again for helping.
     
  11. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Sounds like your pump has a hole in the diaphram. I would change those plugs to QL77JC4 and do a good decarb on it. That junk on the plugs is what sounds to me like carbon or water intrusion. Is there any way you can post a picture of them. The differental in the compression readings tell me it needs a decarb or head gaskets. I would do at least two decarbs and then do another compression test.
     
  12. droptine77

    droptine77 New Member

    Messages:
    469
    State:
    Anderson, SC
    Give me some time and I will be glad to post a pic of the plugs.
     
  13. droptine77

    droptine77 New Member

    Messages:
    469
    State:
    Anderson, SC
    Here is pics of the plugs. Again thanks.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Time for a decarb and tune up. I would clen those plugs real good and do a decarb, with that much carbon I would do it twice and let the last blast in the piston holes set over night for a good soaking. When you clean those plugs after the decarb run the snot out of that engine and then install you some good QL77JC4 in it. I would also check that fuel pump for a tear in the diaphram. When was the last time you redid the carbs.
     
  15. droptine77

    droptine77 New Member

    Messages:
    469
    State:
    Anderson, SC
    When I bought the boat 2 months ago I was told that they rebuilt the carbs on all boats before they sell them. Who knows. On the decarb how much seafoam are you using to a gallon of gas? Theres no telling how much money you have saved the folks on this site. Catfishing and poor people go hand in hand. Thanks.
     
  16. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    I would replace all the lines and fuel pump first if I was going to start on the fuel system. I would even change the fuel connectors because if the suck the least bit of air thrugh them it will starve the engine for fuel.
    Do a good decarb first and lets go from there. After the decarb do a compression check and let me know the numbers. I use a gal of gas with about 2/3 can of seafoam and put the rest into something I can spray into the carbs and spark plug holes.

    Decarb instructions here.

    Decarbing is a 2 part process. The first part is preventative, done by using a fuel additive to prevent carbon build up. SeaFoam is one such fuel additive and can be found at most auto parts stores. It also works as a fuel system cleaner and should be used as a preventative maintenance procedure.If Your intent is to REMOVE the existing carbon buildup from the cylinders, heads, and rings, a spray decarb solvent product, such as SeaFoam Deep Creep, Power Tune, or Ring Free, is needed to do the decarb process. Free moving rings are what seals your cylinders and gives you compression. Compressed and stuck rings means loss of compression, broken rings, damaged pistons and heads, and eventually, engine failure.Run engine at fast idle, with engine running and warm, slowly spray liberal amount into each carb. Its gonna smoke up the place. Spray for a couple minutes, now spray a larger amount into the carb(s) until engine chokes out and stops.Remove spark plugs and spray the decarb product liberally into each cylinder, install the spark plugs, let it soak for an hour or more. Start the engine and run at medium throttle, or if at the lake, run it at full throttle. It won't hurt to spray some more through the carbs. Run it for atleast 10 minutes to flush the crud out of your engine. Now remove and clean, or replace the spark plugs. It works well to do the spraying, the night before you go to the lake. This way you can let it soak overnight, and run at full throttle at the lake.Don't do this in front of the garage door or the house, unless you want it covered with greasy black crud.
     
  17. droptine77

    droptine77 New Member

    Messages:
    469
    State:
    Anderson, SC
    You say take it to the lake and run it at WOT. Is that in gear or in neatral? Sorry had to ask!
     
  18. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    In gear. Run it like you just stole it. :smile2:
     
  19. droptine77

    droptine77 New Member

    Messages:
    469
    State:
    Anderson, SC
    Well today I took the fuel pump apart and to me everything looked good. I ran the seafoam thru it on the muffs and I admit it smoked a ton but it did seem to run better. I let the seafoam set for about 3 hours in the cylinders and took it to water and let it warm up on the trailer. After a few minutes at afast idle I brought it back down and it shut off. I got it to start again and took it for a run. It still runs like crap. Tomorrow I am going to do another decarb and put the new plugs in. Think I am going to order the rebuild kits for the fuel pump and carbs tomorrow. Online the kit for the pump is $9 and at my local marine dealer it was $30! What a mark up! Also I ran a different tank,bulb and fuel line with the same problems.
     
  20. droptine77

    droptine77 New Member

    Messages:
    469
    State:
    Anderson, SC
    I think we have taken care of the problem of the engine dying at wot. I'm still having trouble of getting the engine to idle and start without having to start it at a high idle. I have read on other threads were you have suggested a link and sync. After reading up on this My question is are butterflies supposed to be absolute vertical or is there supposed a slight angle. I am ordering a manuel but was looking for your advice.