88 ford f-150 302 efi engine trouble

Discussion in 'Other Repairs' started by minnies_moocher, Nov 30, 2005.

  1. minnies_moocher

    minnies_moocher New Member

    Messages:
    210
    State:
    Coldspring, Texas
    It runs fine till it warms up maybe 5 minutes, when it get warm it sometimes shuts down, Then I can only get 25-30 mph. When you press the gas it is sluggish like it is choking out, or starved for gas. You can let of the gas and then press it again, and keep doing it to move. I had the timming chain repaced because I was told it was jumping time, but it is still doing the same thing. I had the fuel pressure tested it is at 40 lbs. I was also told it was in the exhaust, It doesn't have a cadilac converter to plug up , so what else could it be. Also the check engine light stays on. I also put new plugs, wires, distributor cap ,rotor button, water pump, coil, the thing that takes a plug on the distributor, Altinator, and GOD knows what else. PLEASE HELP !
     
  2. blackwaterkatz

    blackwaterkatz Active Member

    Messages:
    3,659
    State:
    Andrews, SC
    Before you spend any more money on that engine, spend some to take it to a good mechanic that can test for computer codes. A lot of things can cause problems, and you need to read the codes (btw, some auto repair shops, such as Advance, will read the codes free of charge). I saw an oxygen sensor cause similar problems once, and the mechanics in 2 dealerships couldn't diagnose it - finally had to get a Ford engineer to figure it out.
    Good Luck!
     

  3. Cattracker16

    Cattracker16 New Member

    Messages:
    356
    State:
    Wilton Iowa
    I agree with the computer being the problem... it looks like you have spent plenty in other places and thats about the only other thing that makes the automobile go.. my check engines light is on 97 150 i going to clear out computer by disconnection the battery for a few hours. if that clears the check engine light nothing to worry about, if it don't i going to auto zone for a code reader... good luck kenny
     
  4. cook

    cook New Member

    Messages:
    1,494
    State:
    Plattsburg,Mo.(near K.C.)
    I had a similar problem with a ford car.Would start and run fine for a while,then gradually slow down,get hot.Took to the dealer twice.They did all that stuff also,then suggested a new computer for 800$$Nope,not me.Took it to another place for a second opinion.
    Turned out to be the fuel pump after all.
    When they checked it at first,it had plenty of pressure and worked fine.After a while,10-20 minutes,it would lose pressure and start getting hot.
    Not sure if you have the same problem,but try checking your pressure while its hot or been running for a while.

    If thats not it,then I have no clue what else to suggest.Good Luck
     
  5. Mutt

    Mutt Administrator Staff Member Supporting Member

    Messages:
    19,206
    State:
    Ca
    Name:
    Mutt
    mufflers can and will plug up. do this real fast test. start it up have someone hold the throttle down a ways get the eingine up to about 2500 rpm hold your hand at the exhaust tip if there is not a lot of pressure comming out of the tail pipe shut down the engine and then drill a hole infront of the muffler and start it up and see if it runs better if it does go get a new muffler. also check your fuel filters fords are great for plugging up real fast and it will cause same symptoms
     
  6. minnies_moocher

    minnies_moocher New Member

    Messages:
    210
    State:
    Coldspring, Texas
    Thanks a lot you all. Some one told me it was the EGR valve so Today another $120.00 short I replaced the EGR valve, it did made the check engine light to go out. But it still is running bad, but it is better in some ways. If anyone know any thing else to try please let me know.
     
  7. Cataholic

    Cataholic Guest

    Try removing the catalytic converter if it still has one. It's supposed to be illegal still yet, it's done. That's my story and i'm stickin' to it! :cool:
     
  8. minnies_moocher

    minnies_moocher New Member

    Messages:
    210
    State:
    Coldspring, Texas
    Just wanted to update everyone, it don't have a catalytic converter on it. We even cut the muffler off, I sure do like the noise. Replaced EGR valve the check engine light now stayes off. Replaced the distributer, No help there. No matter what you do now it still is sluggish and is back firing in ejection system. For some reason can't keep it in time. Had it put on a computer no coded were showing, it idles fine, when you give it gas it will back fires or dies out. When I get it fixed I will let you all know what else I have had to do to this FORD , If I ever get it fixed. Thanks guys you have been a lot of help and keep those minds working.
     
  9. Fordman

    Fordman New Member

    Messages:
    90
    State:
    Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
    You might try checking the engine ground straps. You should have a couple of them on the engine. They need to be in good condition and tight.
     
  10. Big Sam

    Big Sam Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,383
    State:
    Booneville AR
    Name:
    Sam
    :) Mine had the same issue.....Replace the ground wire from the motor to the firewall...sand down where it goes on the firewall...and add a ground wire from the motor to the frame..sand both ends...it fixed mine.... :cool:
     
  11. minnies_moocher

    minnies_moocher New Member

    Messages:
    210
    State:
    Coldspring, Texas
    Just Wanted To Up Date You All It Is Time For A New Motor The Cam That Work On The Distributor Is Shot That Is Why The Motor Keeps Jumping Time And Not Running Worth Crap. Thanks To You All Will Have Is Running Soon.
     
  12. Cataholic

    Cataholic Guest

    Sounds like someone is trying to get into your pocket, as far as I know any distributor is gear driven. They do have a shear pin that will occasionally break and cause your problem. Pull your distributor and see for yourself, the gear won't turn easily by hand especially if the shear pin has failed, so it's best to take a drift punch and knock out the roll pin, if it comes out in one peice I'm wrong. Be carefull if it is in peices you can very easily damage the distributor and gear. It's really not all that difficult of a job, maybe an hour...
    My GM has a coil pack and crank position sensor that has done the same thing to me. Spent several hundred avoiding the "SHOP" and just by chance looked down and saw my harmonic balancer was about to fail and had eat up the sensor. Sure would have liked to have seen that before I bought a bunch of electronics I didn't need, the sensor was under 20 bucks! Good luck! Oh BTW if your wondering it's always best to go somewhere else for a second opinion, but a distributor that's cam driven is news to me!
     
  13. gater460

    gater460 New Member

    Messages:
    75
    State:
    eldon,mo
    Fix Or Repair Dailey
     
  14. Cataholic

    Cataholic Guest

    Dat's knot vewy nice Gater!
    This is Ford country,
    On a quiet night you can hear Chebby's rust! :D
     
  15. Mutt

    Mutt Administrator Staff Member Supporting Member

    Messages:
    19,206
    State:
    Ca
    Name:
    Mutt
    i have to agree with cataholic on his one my wifes car shaved a tooth from her distributor gear once which was shocking to say the least. if they guy that is saying your motor is shot because your distributor is jumping time is either a very incompetant mechanic or like said trying to get into your pockets. unless the roll pin on the distributor is bad there aint no way it can jump time. at the gears like that if it jumped time at the timing gears well that aint a very expensive fix new set of timing gears and chain and cover gasket set. get a second opinion
     
  16. tncatfishing

    tncatfishing New Member

    Messages:
    916
    State:
    clk. tn
    It is hard to believe that this is your problem, and if by some chance it is replace your cam. You do not need a new motor.Have your compression checked this will tell you what shape the rest of your motor is in, and go from their. And if it is time for a rebuild, you can get a reman at a good price. An 88 model truck will not have much of a computer, if one at all if memory serves me well.
     
  17. minnies_moocher

    minnies_moocher New Member

    Messages:
    210
    State:
    Coldspring, Texas
    Well all it is now more money in the pot. Got a used motor to put in it. Had to change a few things. got it in today and tommorrow we will see if it will do the trick. The motor we just took out was shot, we found that out when we started to change parts over. My brother and me are doing the machanic work the garages have drained us till we just can't go that route any more. Just everyone pray and keep those fingers crossed that this does the trick. I will keep you all posted. And believe me you all will be the first to know about it. Thanks everyone......... :confused:
     
  18. dinkbuster1

    dinkbuster1 New Member

    Messages:
    2,272
    State:
    Ohio
    i had the same problem on my 85 full size blazer. after it would warm up it would get sluggish and hesitate when accelerating. i cant tell you how many ase certified mechanics i took it to. i replaced damn near everything exept the block. i decided to put in a rebuilt block and heads and it ran fine after that. never did figure out what was doing it either.
     
  19. shadow

    shadow New Member

    Messages:
    136
    Fix Or Repair Daily = FORD. I know, I have one. Sure as hell dont mean First On Race Day
     
  20. catfishredneck

    catfishredneck New Member

    Messages:
    24
    State:
    Timpson texas
    minnie does it have any 02 sensors. if so that would be my next step. you can checks those with a volt meter. sometimes the o2 sensors wont throw a engine code when they are not receiving a signal. might also be as easy as a vac leak. hope anything helps.