85 HP Johnson Outboard (2 stroke)

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by suddawg, Jul 9, 2007.

  1. suddawg

    suddawg New Member

    I just bought a 73 Glassmaster boat with an unknown 85HP Johnson Outboard motor. Boat needs major repair interior wise and the gentlemen I bought it from said he had put regular fuel into the tank instead of the mixed fuel and it burned the rings in it.

    We took off the cowling and the engine appears very clean. It's a 4 cylinder engine. Just wanted to find out if anyone has an approximation on replacing the rings in the engine parts and labor wise.

    I bought the boat, trailer, engine for $100 so I'm not losing any money so far. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks

    SudDawg
     
  2. Mr.T

    Mr.T New Member

    Messages:
    2,553
    State:
    MO
    I have no idea how much it might cost, but the cylinders walls are probably scored as well as having bad rings. That usually requires boring and honing the cylinders, installing new (larger) pistons and new rings, and gets real expensive real quick.

    Your best course of action would be to get rid of that boat now while you've only lost $100 on it...
     

  3. daddio

    daddio New Member

    Messages:
    260
    State:
    kansas
    I dont know about the cost how long is the boat and what shape, boat, motor trailer 100 bucks seems to me you could spend a few dollars and fix the motor if the boat is in good shape but then i am a cobbler i like tinkering with junque lol good luck
     
  4. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    About 17 to 18 hundred to replace or rebuild that power head. If it got the rings it got the bearings on the crank at the same time.
    Is this one of the electric shifts or is it manuel. If you will give me the model number I can tell you more about that engine.
     
  5. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    Mr friend FuzzFace has a similar motor. When we were once talking to a marine mechanic he said he charged about 2300 to completely rebuild a 70 HP motor. Seems like when you go out and buy a motor, you are taking a gamble...you can reduce the odds by taking compression readings and other tests, but there is no assurances on a used motor. If you were contemplating keeping the motor for several years, it may well be worth the price to have it rebuilt so you know what you have got and may not be stranded far from home at some strangers mercy. It seems like your problems are money making opportunity for some unscrupulous individuals. But, if your not sure how long you would want to keep the motor, I'd not put much into it...may try to part it out on ebay. LOL
     
  6. suddawg

    suddawg New Member

    Appreciate the replies fellas, good info to ponder. Where do you get the information (VIN, etc.) for these motors? Can't seem to find it anywhere, and it's an extremely clean engine still.

    Here's the scoop. Trailer is in great condition with no rust. Will probably need new tires eventually. Boat is fiberglass, tri-hull. Floor has cracked and leaked, so that will be ripped out, with new boards installed with fiberglass along with new carpet. Seats will be reapolstered, no big deal. As far as I know it's just your standard throttle, all cables seem to be working.

    But first things first with me. If it's going to cost a ridiculous amount of money to get the motor going again, then I will be getting it off my hands. Myself and TA2D can do all the interior work (floors, seats, wiring, etc.)

    Should I take a look inside the motor to see if it's scorched? Or is there any way of telling without taking anything apart?

    Thanks for any info/help, give me a broken computer and I can fix it no problem, give me an engine and it's like a monkey looking at a math problem.

    Shane
     
  7. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Shane do a compression check and get back to me. Then I will tell you how to get it apart and do the work your self and not have to spend a whole lot on the power head.

    It is simple to check the rings score but squirt some oil in those piston holes viva the spark plug holes and get back to me with the readings.

    Look down on the transom bracket the part that holds the motor to the boat transom and it should have a plate with the model number on it. Post the model number and I can tell you what it is.
     
  8. suddawg

    suddawg New Member

    Will do. I'll post it tomorrow, got to head down to my grandparents place tonight (40 miles south of base) where the boat is located. Thanks again.

    Shane
     
  9. suddawg

    suddawg New Member

    Well I couldn't find anyone that had a compression gauge so didn't get the readings. But I did get the model/serial numbers.

    Johnson 85 Powershift II
    Model # 85E5L-73M or could be 85ESL-73M, 85E6L-73M (the 4th number/letter has a scratch on it)
    Serial # J3857206

    I'm still going to try and get the compression readings to ya. Thanks

    Shane
     
  10. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Shane that is a 1973 hydro electric shift you have there.
     
  11. suddawg

    suddawg New Member

    Appreciate it. If I can't get ahold of a compression gauge should we take off the head to take a look at the damage?

    I'll be quite honest with you, the gentlemen I bought the boat from is a notorious drug user. God only knows really how long the motor ran on regular fuel. In fact myself and TA2D could swear there was some mixed fuel still in the fuel line going into the motor.

    Should we put some mixed fuel in, and try and completely fire up the motor?

    SudDawg
     
  12. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    Shane, if you have an Auto Zone parts store near you, drag it down there for the compression test. They usually do tests of this nature free, hoping you will purchase the repair parts at their store. They have marine books and can get just about anything you want in two or three days. I think the compression tester, on the cheap side, is about $15.00 - and one of them is always good to have. Let your fingers do the walking in the yellow pages and call one of their stores before you go to all this trouble. lOL
     
  13. BamaRiverRat

    BamaRiverRat New Member

    Messages:
    26
    State:
    Alabama
    It would depend on how long he ran it on just gas. If he didn't totally fry the block, you might not have to sleeve the cylinders. I got away with doing that one time on one of my Evinrudes and it's still going. You can just hone out the cylinders out real good and drop new piston/rings in there if it isn't too bad.

    You'd still probably be better off buying a used motor and just dropping in on that boat if you like the boat and it's in good shape. It's nothing to change engines out if you go back with a Johnson or Evinrude of about the same year range so you don't have to change out controls/electricals.
     
  14. TA2D

    TA2D New Member

    Messages:
    886
    State:
    Nebraska
    Guys this boat is gonna take some serious work, from what I can tell most if not all of the floor is shot, the fiberglass cracked near the bilge pump, and water rotted out the plywood. I know that me and suddawg can fix this. The motor was really clean underneath the cowl, but that doesn't tell us any thing about the inside of the motor. We did hook the main leads up to jumpers and the motor will turn, but it is really stiff, I think that could be from the wiring being old and not conducting very good. You can tell that the engine is getting some compression, when you turn the flywheel you can feel it get tough til the valve opens and then it moves easily. About the gas, the boat had 2 tanks, one on board 12 gallon and the other a carry can 5 gallon, the fuel in the onboard tank still smelled like it had 2 stroke oil in it, and the fuel line leading out of the tank to the motor had a coupling on it that was too big for the line coming out of the motor, so instead of running new fuel lines, the jackass just got a carry can and I assume put straight gas in it and ran it through the motor. I have hope for this engine, and think that we should be on the water next spring/summer.

    Aaron

    TA2D
     
  15. shadguts

    shadguts New Member

    Messages:
    564
    State:
    Tennessee
    Fellows I have had a 1980 100hp johnson for a couple of years and it has never ldled right and hard to start. It seemed to run fine anything above idle.
    I pulled the carbs completly disassembled them soaked them and blew them out with compressed air installed the kits and the motor ran exactly the same as before the rebuild. I carried the boat to a reputable repair shop and they called to tell me that the motor was down on compression on two cylinders. They said that as old as it is it will more than likley need boring rings and pistons and would know more after tearing it down. I asked if it may have bad valves and was told that it doesnt even have valves. They estimate the repairs between $800 and $1200. I probably could find a used motor but wouldnt know what I was getting. I cant get a new 100hp with tilt and trim for anywhere close to that amount so I am going to let them repair it and end up with basically a new motor.HOPEFULLY
     
  16. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    Just saw a guy yesterday that had an 85 HP Evinrude...he said after it was gone through and re-worked, it would be sold for 1,750.00. Now, that price was without me owning the motor in the first place. I think if you shop around, you can find some repair shops that is not out to gouge you out of all they can.
     
  17. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    The largest question on rebuilding that engine is the fact that its an hydro electric shift. Those lower units parts are getting hard to find. Pull the plates off the back of the water jacket and look inside those piston holes and see how many cylinders have been damanged. Without oil in that fuel you can be your bottom dollar that some internal damage was being done also. That whole engine depends on the oil in that fuel and if one spot starves for nonexistent oil the rest is also.

    In my own personal opinion I would opt to tear out the floor and redo and reglass every thing and in the mean time start searching for a good used motor. Check sale papers go to repair shops and look on their builltin boards.
    Search everynick and corner before makeing a decision.
    Somewhere behind someones house there is an engine that needs some basic repair that can be had for a good price.
    I have a 1976 135 that I got for 150 bucks and all it needed was a coil.
    I purchased for a parts motor.
    Before you start looking get you a compression tester the kind that screws into the plug hole and a spark tester. These two items are one of the most used things in any basic trouble shooting sessions.
    Both items can be had for under 50 bucks and tell you a lot when finding problems or checking an engine out.
    If I am buying and engine that run good on the last time out the price drops considerable if I can't take it out to run but I always compression check and spark test it.
     
  18. suddawg

    suddawg New Member

    Ok fellas this may sound stupid. I got this 75 horse Johnson motor. It's a 2 stroke, and have no idea if it runs. This weekend I plan on seeing if I can get her going. Here's my question...what mixed fuel do I get?

    SudDawg
     
  19. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Got to have that model number shane to answer that but if it is built from 1964 and newer it will use 50:1 mix. anything before 1964 is 24:1 mix.
    Some of them from 1959 forward used roller berings and can use 50:1 but without the model number it no way of knowing.
     
  20. suddawg

    suddawg New Member

    Thanks. Here's the info about the motor. It's the same one I was talking about in the beginning of this post.

    Johnson 85 Powershift II
    Model # 85E5L-73M or could be 85ESL-73M, 85E6L-73M (the 4th number/letter has a scratch on it)
    Serial # J3857206

    It's a 73 Hydro electric shift

    Thanks again

    Shane