[TDawgNOk]

BobPaul,

I just got a 1977 14ft Glassmaster with a 70 HP Chrysler Engine on it. Purchase Price = $500.00

The guy I bought it from said that the choke no longer worked on it. We did a successful test start of the motor with either, however, I don't want to do that out on the water.

When it comes to boat motors, I'm dumb because I have never had one.

Any help you could give me on this would be appreciated.

 

[Bobpaul]

My first question is, why did you wait until after you bought this, before you ask for help?

I've just done a search for Chrysler outboard info, and see that they're several sites you can get parts from. Hopefully they'll be the ones you need.

Start with obtaining a manual for your yr and engine model.

 

[TDawgNOk]

I bought it yesterday because if I hadn't, my brother in law would have paid the $500 just to get the 70 hp. He has a 50 hp Chrysler that looks JUST like it.

LOL

Yeah, I am going googling here in a min to get all the info that I can on it, and see if I can find some repair manuals for the motor.

 

[Bobpaul]

Tony, look to see if there's a manul over ride to the choke system. Ether will wash down the oil from the bearings in the crank case, and it's dangerous.

In your parts search, look for carb kits and a water pump.

Take one thing at a time. Compression check, spark check, and you know it's getting fuel, except to start.

Run it in water ONLY. See that it's running cool, or find out how long it's been since a water pump has been installed. I'd recommend a replacement of the pump.

Be sure you've got new gas and a CLEAN fuel tank.

After you get your manual, it'll show you how the choke system works, or you can look at your brother-in-law's.

 

[turtle1173]

A manual is a great idea for any motor you want to "tinker" with.

If the choke is the only problem, I would take a battery and some cables, hook the negative to ground and hit the choke terminal with the positive. If it works, the problem is with the ignition switch.

I just had this problem on a 55HP Chrysler of mine. I replaced the ignition switch and all is well.

As Bob Paul said, don't use ether or starting fluid. Just take some pre-mix and squirt it in the carb throats.

I've got a friend you used to be a Chrysler Outboard dealer. He carries just about anything you would need for your Chrysler. Send me a PM if you need something and I'll give you his e-mail address.

 

[Bobpaul]

Way to go Shane. That's what we're about.

Tony, one thing I forgot to mention, Drain and check the lower unit oil for water. Refill with fresh oil. Don't let it set empty.

 

[TDawgNOk]

Shane, thank you, your post was similar to one I got from marineengine.com.
They also said that the green wires on my ignition are the choke.

Bobpaul. I plan on draining and replacing it this evening. What do I "relube" it with, and where do I get it?

 

[TDawgNOk]

Either is vety dangerous to two stroke motors. Highly flamable and no lubrication. Motor needs to be in neutral to start and is choked by pushing the key in. When the key is pushed in there should be an audible click. With cowling off you should hear the click and see the choke solinoid engage the choke butterflies and close them. I believe your motor has two carbs. If choke solinoid does not click or close the butterflies do this. Disconnect the wire going to the solinoid. Take a jumper cable and connect it to the positive (red) lead on the battery. Touch the other end of the jumper cable to the screw on the choke solinoid you disconnected the wire from. This should engage the solinoid and make the butterflies close. If not remove the choke solinoid and clean the areas where it comes in contact with the motor and near the screw holes with sand paper or a file. and reconnect and try again. If it dont click or engage the plunger on the solinoid chances are it is shot.

If you are able to engage the solinoid with the jumper cable but not through the ignition switch you will need to trace the voltage. The C on the ignition switch should have a yellow wire connected to it and go the the terminal strip on the motor. From there it will go to the starter solinoid. Good luck
------------------
Sorry wrong wire color. The choke circuit is green not yellow. Yellow is for the starter solinoid.

 

[TDawgNOk]

Bobpaul,

Tried to take it out to the lake for a test run this weekend, choke appears to work fine as the butterflies close fine when I push the key in. However, we couldn't get it to start at all. All it would do when the key was turned, was the engine would "turn over" 1/4 - 1/2 revolution, then pause like it was hanging on something, turn another 1/4 - 1/2, and so on. Even tried a brand new battery. Also, it appeared as if the "gear wheel" of the starter did not always disengage properly, so my gut is telling me that I need to pull the starter and have it tested/rebuilt. Any other ideas for me?

Thank you

 

[turtle1173]

Check all cable connections. Make sure no corrossion or loose wiring on battery, starter, solenoid, etc. Also make sure you tighten connections on battery with pliers (not hand tight).

These Chrysler motors take a decent sized battery to turn them over. So I would make sure it was fully charged, even if it was a new battery. All the more so if the battery is on the small side.

You may very well have a starter problem but start with the basics first.

 

[Bobpaul]

Do all that Shane has posted. Did you service the lower unit?

 

[TDawgNOk]

Drained the lower unit lube on Saturday. There was a tiny bit of water in it. Actually had a boat mechanic visiting the people in the next camp site over at THAT time, and he helped with it. (Pointed out what I needed to do and watch to make sure I did it right). He said that it was probably just from condensation as it didn't look to be more than 5 or 6 drops worth.

*(note to self, buy pump, HAS to be easier than squeezing a quart sized bottle up into the lower unit)*

 

[Bobpaul]

A pump for the quart size bottles is the only way to go. Walmart carries them.

If you've got a gallon size garden sprayer, they work well when using bulk oil.

 

[TDawgNOk]

Good news, the choke butterflies appear to work fine, found a loose connection to the ignition switch.

 

[Bobpaul]

Ain't no tellin' what you'll find, when you start lookin'.

Now check out that starter wiring before you go taking it off.

 

[TDawgNOk]

Checked the starter wiring. All good connections. Still no start. Taking it off tonight to have the starter tested/rebuilt

 

[TDawgNOk]

Pulled starter last night.
Laid it on the ground to put engine cover back on.
POOF
The "bottom" cap of the starter fell off. Some of the innards came out. Black crud all over driveway.
No wonder it wouldn't start, the starter really was "falling apart"

Now to figure out if I can rebuild the starter, or if I'll have to pay someone else to do it

 

[turtle1173]

Tony, we've been trying to tell you that the starter was the problem, LOL.

I took a Chrysler starter to an auto electrical shop around here and they rebuilt it for $25.

Good luck

 

[TDawgNOk]

Spark plugs?

Size, preferred type, gap? Any idea?

 

[turtle1173]

Well you have a couple different choices. I would go with Champion plugs myself, since that was what was originally recommended.

1) L82C gapped at .30

2) L20V - surface gap plug

I personally like the surface gap plugs but there's nothing like some experimenting

Could you list the model number for your motor? They didn't make a 70 HP in '77, so I was just curious. I imagine that it is one between '70 - '73 but I believe they also made one in '79.