67 johnson 33 horse no start

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by tbull, Jun 30, 2007.

  1. tbull

    tbull New Member

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    SW Ohio
    Thanks to Duxsrus for the help today, but we still can't figure this thins out. It will start with the pull start, but no electric start. Battery was fully charged, voltage drops from 12.5 to 11.7 on the Selonoid when we try to start it. We bypassed the switch and still nothing. Yesterday when I tried to start it, it cranked a few times, then I got a spark on the positive terminal on the battery, now nothin...Think the starter crapped out?? Thanks for any info, I may be just pull starting the thing, running out of funds to drop into this boat.
     
  2. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

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    4,532
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    Travis those thing had a problem with the starter spinning at top end even with a good battery. They would have a high amperage draw that would draw through the starter and it would not let enough power thru to let it start.
    Some where in my archives of outboard info I have a cure for that problem and it consists of a diode that goes between the solenoid and the box. I will see if I can scratch it up and post it for you.
     

  3. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

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    4,532
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    Travis when you get through explain what you did so others on here might benfit from you cure on this project.
     
  4. tbull

    tbull New Member

    Messages:
    3,318
    State:
    SW Ohio
    Thanks to bubbakat, I have atleast taken care of the cranking part. I am going to post some information that he gave me here for all to see incase same problem comes up for anyone:

    Travis this was written up by a friend of mine that was in the OMC buiness for 30 years and flat knows his stuff. I just got off line with him and he said this would most likely cure your problem.


    Voltage Drop To Battery Capacitance Discharge)
    ( Pulsepack When Electric Starter Is Engaged)
    (J. Reeves)

    On the older Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition systems (1968-1972), the electric starter reaches a point, even with a top notch battery, whereas the starter will draw excess voltage/current/whatever which results in a voltage drop to the pulsepack. The cure is to purchase a diode which is capable of handling 12 volts and installing it between the starter terminal of the starter solenoid (NOT the battery cable terminal) and the wiring terminal that supplies voltage to the pulsepack.

    The diode must be installed so that the current flows from the starter terminal of the solenoid to the pulsepack... NOT vice versa. When that diode is installed in this manner, when the key is turned to the start position, the voltage that is applied to the starter is also applied directly to the pulsepack via the diode effectively eliminating the voltage drop and energizing the pulsepack with the required voltage needed for its proper operation.


    I purchased some diodes and wired them in, and it took care of the voltage drop and crank problem. If anyone needs any more information on what was done feel free to let me know, I didn't want to take up to much space. Again thanks to Bubbakat for all the help
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