'56 Big Twin 30 - wiring diagram

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by Fishgeek, Jun 21, 2006.

  1. Fishgeek

    Fishgeek Active Member

    Messages:
    1,149
    State:
    Indiana
    I got my '56 Evinrude Big Twin running. It pull-starts really easy but my stick steering and shift/throttle controls are up front...running back & forth doesn't seem like too much fun to me!

    Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this motor? Model #25294 & serial #01396.

    Thanks!
     
  2. coach

    coach New Member

    Messages:
    1,564
    State:
    Greenville , Ms
    matt, badkarma had the same set-up u got ........ he did some engineering and could pull crank his motor from his seat up front ..........may wanna check with him .........................
     

  3. Fishgeek

    Fishgeek Active Member

    Messages:
    1,149
    State:
    Indiana
    Thanks coach! I'll PM badkarma.

    Bob & Bubba: Can you give me any guidance? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!
     
  4. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Matt are you saying its electric start and you need to know how to wire up the starter from the front of the boat.
     
  5. river scum

    river scum New Member

    Messages:
    3,474
    State:
    hooterville indiana
    bubba,yes its an electric start motor. i helped him geter goin and tuned up.
     
  6. Fishgeek

    Fishgeek Active Member

    Messages:
    1,149
    State:
    Indiana
    Yes Bubba. I have some wiring diagrams from my Seloc's manual I got at the library but none of them are for my model...I'm sure one of them is the same but I don't know which one. I got an old box from River Scum that has the starter solenoid in it & all the wiring to & from it. It has extra wires in it that I think are for a model that has a generator (mine doesn't). I think I have the starter wiring figured out as well as the choke. But, outside the motor case where the remote throttle cable hooks to the throttle, there's a (I believe its called) mercury switch with a small black wire that run out of the motor with the other wires. The was also another small black wire attached to the bottom bolt to the bracket that supports the vacuum cut-out switch (This is NOT the wire that goes from the cut-out switch to the magneto). I guess I'm unsure as to where this wire & the mercury switch wire go.

    I've attached a pic for you. The mercury switch is circled in yellow and the other wire in question is circled in red.

    Thanks!

    Yes, River Scum has been a God-send with this motor!!! I could not have done any of it without him.

    REP POINTS FOR RIVER SCUM!!!! Thanks buddy!
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    I don't have anything back that far but do have one from 1960 which the wire color should be close. I am including a drawing of a starter circut That I drew up and you can use an ohm meter to tell which wire going back is the one you need or you can use this example to make your own.


    http://img.photobucket.Com/albums/v172/coofficer/earliesixtieswireingdiag.jpg


    http://img.photobucket.Com/albums/v172/coofficer/solenoid.jpg


    Ok I went and read your last post because it was postied while I was putting trhis one togeather. I will have to go back and read up on that petcular motor and then off what I can .
     
  8. Fishgeek

    Fishgeek Active Member

    Messages:
    1,149
    State:
    Indiana
    Thanks Bubba. I have the first diagram you attached...obviously thats for a motor with a generator. I appreciate the help.

    In the diagram you drew, the key switch (or a push button) would start the motor. Would I then use the electric choke to kill the motor to turn it off? Would I need button for the choke & one for the starter or could I wire one of those key switches that you push in while turning in order to choke it?
     
  9. Fishgeek

    Fishgeek Active Member

    Messages:
    1,149
    State:
    Indiana
    Ok Bubba...or anyone. Since I'm absolutely clueless with this electircal stuff. Let me talk out loud. In the diagram you drew, I'll assume the ground wire coming from the solenoid can be grounded to the motor...like the starter mounting bracket. Next, where's a good place to ground the battery in a fiberglass boat?
     
  10. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Ground everything to a good solid place on the block and as for thr kill switch you can wire in a good key switch for a marine appclation and I'll look up that drawing I have to show you where to wire it into the points to kill it' How do you kill it now?

    The selnoid is grounded to the motor.
    I would go get me a good switch and wire it in to it. I can talk you thru it step by step.
     
  11. Fishgeek

    Fishgeek Active Member

    Messages:
    1,149
    State:
    Indiana
    For now I've been pulling the manual choke out to kill the motor...of course I've only had it out on the water one day for a couple hours with River Scum trying to get those low & high speed nozzles adjusted. So, I just pulled the choke to kill it. I suppose that's not the best way - probably a good way to gum-up the spark plugs right? But, I seem to recall reading someplace that these old Big Twins had a push button start and push button choke and in order to kill the motor you pushed the choke button again until the motor died.

    I will get a good key switch, but one more question to make sure I get it right. Should I get a separate button for the choke, or get the key switch that has the choke built into it (by pushing the key in while turning)?

    Thanks again for all the help!
     
  12. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    I never did like to choke one down because that leaves a lot of unburned fuel to seep down the exhause housing while sitting.

    You can use either one for the choke you desire. Personally I prefer the toggle switch myself. As for adjusting the high and low speed jets that is a simple task if done right and shouldn't need adjusting again once done with. I have a set of directions some where in my files on the procedure .

    If you have a set of wires the already go to the remote control box up front give me the color of wires and I see if I can tell you what each one goes to.
    Don't let a set of wires like that over whelm you because if its man made it can be worked on.
    Feel free to ask if I can't answer it I'll find out about what it is and then let you know.
     
  13. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Here is a little info to help with the carb adjustments and it was written by a friend of mine that had 30 years fooling with those older motors. I have always followed his advice and never went wrong with it.

    Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)

    Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

    Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

    NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle va /lve adjustment.

    (High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

    (Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

    When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
     
  14. Fishgeek

    Fishgeek Active Member

    Messages:
    1,149
    State:
    Indiana
    Thanks Bubba. I think Tim & I got the high & low speed adjustments set OK..Tim knew how to do that & my Seloc's manual from the library did a real good job explaining that as well.

    As far as the wiring, I'm in Pennsylvania right now visiting my folks & I'm 400 miles from my boat! I won't be back to Indiana until next Wednesday night. So, I'll give you a couple days off, LOL!!! I'll let you know when I'm ready to proceed. Thanks again!