1990 Merc 35 bearing carrier/prop shaft

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by BKS72, Feb 26, 2006.

  1. BKS72

    BKS72 New Member

    Messages:
    3,361
    State:
    East of KC
    I lost reverse Friday on the river. Forward works fine and my shift linkage looks good. I started pulling the lower unit apart, but I can't for the life of me get the bearing carrier/prop shaft ass'y to come out of the gear case. The manual I have says to put the prop shaft in a vise (using wood between shaft and vise so I don't hose up the splines) and "tap" the gearcase off of the bearing carrier. I've been diligently tapping (might have even outright hit it once or twice) and I can't the the thing to come out. All the hardware is out of it and I can't see anything that would keep it in there. If these Clymer books are like Haynes manuals, tap could mean anything from "tap" to "heat to glowing red and pound until your shoulder hurts". I don't want to tear anything up by forcing it apart. Anybody got any suggestions as to what I might be overlooking or do I just need to get more enthusiastic with the dead-blow? Also, I'm not positive it's a 1990. Could be a year or two either way. Serial # is A151843. Thanks!


    Branden
     
  2. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    You might have to waite until Bubbacat gets his butt outta bed for this one.

    I've had to use heat around the gear case to get it to swell, and use a puller designed for getting them out.

    There's an o-ring around the bearing carrier, near the rear of it that I would apply heat in that area of the gear case. I'm sure that Merc has a special tool for doing this removal.

    Tapping in that area of the gear case can be hazardous. You don't want to bend it out of round. Be careful. If your dead blow hammer isn't about 3#, using a block of wood against it and a hammer that will exert a good amount of force, without a wild swing should do it, if that is the recommended way without a puller at hand.

    When using heat, heat around the back 4" of the gear case, then let it cool. Repeat this a few times to break the corrosion, then try to remove it while the gear case is hot. Be sure your drain plugs are removed and your using a good set of gloves and eye protection always.

    My choice of heat is an acetyline torch, DO NOT USE THIS TYPE OF TORCH IF YOUR NOT EXTREMELY EXPERIENCED WITH IT, AND ALUMINUM. It'll cause your gear case to disappear, and leave you wondering were the aluminum went.

    BTW, I have my doubts when it comes to manuals that aren't factory issue.

    Now sit back and waite for Bubba to wake up.
     

  3. BKS72

    BKS72 New Member

    Messages:
    3,361
    State:
    East of KC
    Thanks. Yeah, I have my doubts about the book to, but at the moment it's all I have. I'm not hitting the round part of the gear case, but between the gearcase and cav plate. I appreciate the help, I'll hang out till Bubbakat shows up. I haven't worked on these before (lots of other transmissions and gearboxes, though) and don't want to get to rough with it until I get some more info. Thanks again!


    Branden
     
  4. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    When those things seize in there it is a bugger to get out.
    I have seen housings totally destroyed trying to get them out.

    I made a puller at one time but found out it is easier for me to just take them to a shop that has the right tool to pull them.

    On some of them they had a small key to remove before you could get them out. I am assuming that you have the nut and all off and are down to the assemble that is left in the housing.

    You can go to Wally world and get you a can of marvel mystery oil and soak it over night and see if that will loosen it up and if it doesn't I would take it to a good shop and have them remove it.


    I do think once you get into it you will find the reverse gear is most likely chipped up.
    Sorry I couldn't be more help but I will ck this on your progress as I can.

    My wife entered the hospital yesterday and going in for surgery on the heart Mon morn so I will be in and out for a day or to.
     
  5. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Right where the housing mates up to the seal you need to soak this and I would replace all the seals and parts if they don't look good.

    Take some good grabe marine grease and coat it all around the housing to reseat all contact points in case you need to redo at a latter date.

    Alot of people never knew that merc recommend to take the lower unit down about every two years to avoid a seize up like this.

    I don't know anyone that does this though.
     
  6. BKS72

    BKS72 New Member

    Messages:
    3,361
    State:
    East of KC
    Thanks for the info! I've thought of a couple of pullers I could make, but you're right, easier to take it to the shop. It does have a key, but it's just a regular 1/8 square key to make sure the carrier goes in the right way. Thanks again and all the best to your wife-hope she's back home soon.

    Branden
     
  7. BKS72

    BKS72 New Member

    Messages:
    3,361
    State:
    East of KC
    Ok, got it. Bubba, cheated on your plate idea, I put 2 combo wrenches across the case opening between the prop and gear case to use as a pulling plate. Came out and as usual when I tear something completely apart, everything looks fine..:) Forward and reverse gears look new, as does the pinion. Needle bearings and seals also look to be in good shape. Forward backlash is within tolerance and no metal shavings anywhere. I did notice that the shift cam will go clear past the reverse position and let the shift pin go way back in the housing. It won't come clear out of the prop shaft, but I'm not sure if there is supposed to be a stop on the cam or if it's up to the linkage adjustment to keep it from going past reverse. I didn't see anything in the manual about a stop on the shaft, but just wanted to check. I'd have to pull the driveshaft and pinion to get the shift shaft out, and I don't have the right tool to pull the bushing. I think I'll put it back on, play around with the linkage a little more, and then pull it back off till I can get the water pump parts.

    Anyway, so far all I'm out is the cost of new water pump gaskets and the cover nut, which is no big deal. I needed to check the impeller, anyway. And I know what's inside my gearcase and how to work on it. Thank you guys very much for the info!!!!!

    Branden
     
  8. bigfish

    bigfish New Member

    Messages:
    432
    State:
    Dunbar WV.
    hey stolib didnt want to but in while bobpaul and bubbakat were helping you. because i know they have forgot more than i will ever know. they just helped me figure out a few things on my 20hp merc. well anyway, after i changed the baring carrier seals and got it all back together and took it out on the water i didnt have any reverse. was dreading tearing lower unit apart. so after a little thought. so i decided to tap the bearing in a little bit, and sure enough after putting it all back together i now have reverse again. i guess when i tightened up the cover nut i didnt get it quite tight enough, giving everything just a hair to back off. hope this might help. ps those cover nuts on these things are a bear:mad:. think it was bubbakat that said it was recomended to take apart every couple years. think i will do this ever time i change the water pump. good luck.
     
  9. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill

    Hey if it works it works,:)
    Glad you got that bugger out.
     
  10. BKS72

    BKS72 New Member

    Messages:
    3,361
    State:
    East of KC
    Guys, thanks again for the info. Got it all back together last night and just got done firing it up in the d'way with the "ears" on it for a little bit. Shifts fine and sounds OK, no ugly noises from the gearcase, so I think I got back together OK. I'm off work Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, so it'll get 3 days of check rides!! Again, thank you very much for the help,

    Branden