1990 48spl questions

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by coach, Jan 21, 2007.

  1. coach

    coach New Member

    Messages:
    1,564
    State:
    Greenville , Ms
    hey fellows ,,,,, i need some answers if u can help ...... (1 the upper bearing housing in the lower unit ,,,, where the upper, lower unit seals are ..
    can that bearing housing be tightened so tight that it won't let the starter turn the motor over ???? 2) what , if anything in the water pump could put the drive shaft in such a bind that the starter won't turn the motor over ????? thanks in advance
     
  2. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

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    3,039
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    Steve, there's something your not telling us.

    You been messing with lower units again?

    Drop the lower unit again and make it work by hand before installing it. Turn the shaft clockwise, in forward, nuetral, and reverse. It should turn with some resistance because of the impellor friction. If it doesn't work good, then go over the work done.

    I'm not sure about the bearing yet, but I'll look into it.
     

  3. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    The only other thing I can think of is if you put grease on the drive shaft end and it was to much then when you installed the shaft up into the block it could have preloaded the crank and bound it up that way.

    Bob suggestion of pulling the lower unit is the way I would go.
     
  4. Foxhound

    Foxhound New Member

    Messages:
    403
    State:
    Georgia
    Heres one for you guys........Ive replaced my aluminum prop on my pontoon boat with one of the same size and pitch but its stainless steel. Now i cant get but about 4200 rpms max out of the engine. Its a 2005, 60 hp merc. bigfoot motor. Could the weight difference in the props be the culprit?? This prop seems awful big and heavy for this motor, Ive got it on a 18 suntracker pontoon boat. The prop is by Power Tech and the # is R13S11-35 (stainless)
     
  5. coach

    coach New Member

    Messages:
    1,564
    State:
    Greenville , Ms
    i have the lower off ............ when i tighten down on the upper bearing housing it binds the shaft up ... before tighening the upper bearing housing down real tight the drive shaft will turn by hand, but after this housing is tight , u gotta use big channel locks to turn it ...................
    there is an O ring around the bearing housing , that i guess is supposed to seal off the bearing housing and the lower unit it bolts to.... i have a leak where the bearing housing sits in the lower unit , and it is not the shaft seals leaking ,,,,,,,,,, coming from where the bearing housing meets the lower unit .(where the b housing bolts down".....) i have the O ring ordered along with the two top seals ......
    i took care not to put too much grease on the splines ... fact is , i ran a rag over it before installing ........
    with lower unit bolted up , starter won't spin the engine ..... with lower unit laying beside the boat , starter will spin the engine......
    the motor was cranking monday , the 15th on muffs here at the house......the oil leak caused me to drop the lower again, and after i put the lower back on , engine would not spin.....
     
  6. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

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    Ken, try not to mix questions in unrelated threads. The answers and questions get mixed up.

    Drop 1 pitch in stainless steel and you should get the same results as the aluminum
     
  7. coach

    coach New Member

    Messages:
    1,564
    State:
    Greenville , Ms
    ok fellows , i think i got it figured out now................ dafin said i was putting too much load on the bearing on the drive shaft , in other words , too many shims .............so , i have added and subtracted different size shims till i have the shaft turning and no in/out play on the shaft itself/////
    thanks for ur time and effort ........... find some gold bobpaul !!!!!! i may need a loan...............
     
  8. coach

    coach New Member

    Messages:
    1,564
    State:
    Greenville , Ms
    thought i would finish this thread with a "what happened" ........... what happened to get too may shims and thrust washers on the drive shaft under the beaing cup .............when i first notice the leaking oil , i figured seals ... when i tore the lower down , the seals didn't have oil around them but there was oil at the base of the bearin cup housing ..... i realized the oil was coming from around where the bearing cup meets the mounting spot on the lower ....... having plenty of spare parts available , i check out another bearing cup , seals look good and so does the o ring , so i put that one on the drive shaft ,,,,,, now the motor won't turn over , so that is where i was when i made the original post ........... so how did i end up with two thrust washers and several shims on top of the bearing .........the shims and thrust washer off the second bearing cup i put in were stuck to the bottom of the bearing cup ............now i got 2 of everything and it was too tight on the bearing ..................got it right now ..... what a dummy i am !!!!
     
  9. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

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    Ya got to clean those parts, seporate them, then count the derned pieces.

    Next time you have a problem, post it in the High Intensity section, so we can debate your mental status. It could be worse than you admit to:lol: