1953 Johnson 10 hp

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by Bigones, Apr 19, 2006.

  1. Bigones

    Bigones New Member

    Messages:
    161
    State:
    Ohio
    Howdy brothers, I have a 1953 johnson seahorse 10 hp that I need a service manual for or any manual for that matter was wondering if any body had one or knew where I could get one? It seems to be a good motor it will start on the first pull but when I try to adjust the slow or high speed make it richer or lighter is dies out on me. I would say the carb needs adjusted but I don't know much about engines and I know it needs a tune up but I need a manual to show/tell me what I need to do.
     
  2. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Tim read thru this site. This man has tons of info on the older moters and a good source for parts.
    He sell the manuels to I think. I'll get you a link to another site and a guys name and he is the best on the older motors to. I have learned alot from him.

    http://www.maxrules.com/
     

  3. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    I do know that the plugs are J6C champion and gap at 30
    Use only champion plugs and the points are set at 20 I do beleive
    Fuel mix is 24:1
     
  4. Bigones

    Bigones New Member

    Messages:
    161
    State:
    Ohio
    Thanks brother I need all the info I can get
     
  5. Bigones

    Bigones New Member

    Messages:
    161
    State:
    Ohio
    I took the boat out last week and had this terrable noise come out of it while I was running and then it stopped. The engine was still running but I was going nowhere. Well I got home thank god for my trolling motor. I got to messing around with it and found that I sheered the drive pin. I thought that was all that was wrong but I walk out to my garage this morning and had black oil all over my floor. I don't know where it came from looks like the top of the lower unit in the crease or something anyone have any idea's?
     

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  6. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    :eek:h: OMG You have done and gone and knocked a hole in the oil pan.:too_sad:


    Naw that is unburned fuel. You need to clean those carbs and rebuild them and a good tune up. Its not burning all the fuel when it running.

    Have you installed a new impeller yet. I would tune her up and put in a new impeller and be sure you mix your fuel at 24:1

    I'll see if I have the carb adjustment procdure here some where.
    Wouldn't hurt to do a decarb on it to.
     
  7. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
  8. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    This was written by a friend of mine and to me he is one of the best. I have learned a lot from this man.




    Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

    Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

    NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.


    (High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

    (Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

    When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

    --------------------
    Joe Reeves

    30+ Years With OMC
     
  9. slabmaster

    slabmaster New Member

    Messages:
    719
    State:
    missouri
    hey bigones did you ever get your title situation worked out on your boat?
     
  10. Bigones

    Bigones New Member

    Messages:
    161
    State:
    Ohio
    Thanks Bubba you are the man much apprecaited. I was worried I did do something like nock a hole in it lol even though I didn't hit anything when the drive pin sheered I was just cruising along.
     
  11. Bigones

    Bigones New Member

    Messages:
    161
    State:
    Ohio
    Nope slabmaster never really got a title but the guy who sold it to me said he would buy it back. So I just went and got me another one now I am having all kinds of problems with this old motor but once I get her running good I think it will be a good motor its got to be fairly good to still be running The thing is over 50 years old LOL.