16' Alumacraft Modifications

Discussion in 'Boat Modification Journal' started by Arkie55, Jul 30, 2007.

  1. Arkie55

    Arkie55 New Member

    Messages:
    669
    State:
    Mississippi
    As some of you know, I'm modifing my river rig. Here is what I've done so far.

    1. Removed the middle seat (live well)
    2. Removed the back bench seat
    3. Built the rear floor frame of treated 2X2

    Plan:
    Build a solid 2X2 frame for a raised floor in the rear 8' of the boat floor minus the area behind where the rear bench used to be.
    This floor will be approximately 3 1/4 inches above the bottom of the boat.

    Build a good solid frame for a drop deck in the front section of flooring up to the "short deck" front seat. This drop deck will provide side to side support. On this sectin of flooring, two pods will be built. One to mount my stick steering the other to mount my control box. Both pods will be filled with the original floatation that was located in the sides of my live well seat.

    In the rear section of the flooring where the rear seat used to be, there will also be two pods. Both pods will will filled with floatation from the back bench seat. At the rear of these pods there will be a brace running all the way across the beam of the boat for side to side support and a mounting area for rod holders.

    The floor will consist of 3/8" plywood covered underneath, sides, ends, and top with epoxy paint. Then on the sides of the boat, I will also install the 3/8" plywood again painted front, back, sides with epoxy paint. Along the top rail I plan on building a flat topped pod four inches deep running fron to back. This pod like the otherw will be completely sealed and filled with floatation. This flat topped pod will make a great place to mount rod holder bases.

    The idea here is to have as much open floor space as possible. I plan on installing at least three and maybe four seat bases. Three bases will be located to equally allow fishing room for three fisherman. The fourth will be positioned either for driving or on the front "short deck" seat. That's my plan. I know the floor won't last forever and that's ok with me. The floor will be removable and when the time comes to replace it (I probably won't own the boat that long) then it will be a simple matter of removing a few wood screws and replacing the floor.
     
  2. catfisherman60

    catfisherman60 New Member

    Messages:
    1,348
    State:
    Greenwood AR.
    Hey Arkie about to get your boat done. that sounds good to me.
     

  3. wannafish

    wannafish New Member

    Messages:
    75
    State:
    Tennessee
    can we see some pics of the project? We are thinking of changing ours and opening it up some also .even thinking of finding a tiller handle engine and taking our 35 off and the center console , that will give us a lot of room.
     
  4. riddleofsteel

    riddleofsteel New Member

    Messages:
    353
    State:
    NC
    I hate to rain on your parade but if the treated 2x2's are from the current stock of treated lumber you may have trouble brewing. These days treated wood is treated with copper. This wood will erode and eventually destroy most metals that are in contact with it. The treated wood companies recommend only stainless steel and hot dipped galvanized hardware be in constant contact with treated wood. They strictly say that aluminum NOT be in contact with copper treated wood. A guy that I know make iron railings for porches and decks. He told me that the aluminum flashings he uses to cover the base screws on treated deck fail after less than three years.
    You would be MUCH better off with regular lumber sealed with epoxy.

    Sorry
     
  5. lebeaux

    lebeaux New Member

    Messages:
    152
    State:
    ohio
    David's right. There is, however , hope for your project. They make hardware specifically for treated lumber. Won't corrode like your "run of the mill" stuff.
     
  6. riddleofsteel

    riddleofsteel New Member

    Messages:
    353
    State:
    NC
    I am afraid it is the boat hull, not he hardware that will suffer in the long run.
    :eek:oooh:
     
  7. Dadoftwo

    Dadoftwo New Member

    Messages:
    382
    State:
    Oklahoma City
    riddleofsteel is right about the treated lumber. You should use SS screws if you want it to last. I modified a 14' alumicraft a few years back but used metal studs instead of wood. They are lighter and just as strong if done right plus they have screws that wont rust apart.
     
  8. riddleofsteel

    riddleofsteel New Member

    Messages:
    353
    State:
    NC
    My friend that makes porch railings showed me aluminum flashings that were left in contact with treated lumber 24/7/365, in the rain. These parts looked as if they had been exposed to acid. They were honeycombed and partially dissolved. I would cringe to think my hull would look like that in three years or so.
    Has anyone put copper treated wood in contact with a wood hull and had good results? Let's hear from them.
     
  9. Arkie55

    Arkie55 New Member

    Messages:
    669
    State:
    Mississippi
    Thanks for all the input and tips. I really appreciate it. As an updat:

    Yesterday:
    I installed my drop deck floor and my low floor.

    Next:
    Bulid the pods and install floatation.
    Install stick steering
    Install controls (throttle and shift)
    seal all joints with compound
    Final coat of epoxy paint

    Finally:
    Ready to fish.
     
  10. catfisherman60

    catfisherman60 New Member

    Messages:
    1,348
    State:
    Greenwood AR.
    Arkie you ever going to get that all done? LOL. :smile2: Sounds like its going to be nice when you get it done.:cool2: