10 gallon water cooler bait tank: Here is your info

Discussion in 'Livewell and Bait Tank Review' started by D_Weezy, Jun 13, 2009.

  1. D_Weezy

    D_Weezy Active Member

    Messages:
    526
    State:
    Cadiz, Ohio
    Name:
    Dale
    I am trying to help some of the people setup a bait tank like mine. I figured it would just be easier to place it in a thread. One of the first things that you should do after buying the water cooler is, have the hardware store thread you some 3/4" cpvc sch-80 nipple into all-thread pipe. I bought a 12" nipple pipe and had them thread both ends in as far as they would go. I ended up with about 5" on each end. This is enough for two. After you get this done and buy all of your parts, you are ready for assembly. You will need to drill a hole with your hole saw around the 8 1/2 gallon mark. My cooler has the gallon marks on the inside. This should give you enough room to fit the lid on. The flange nuts that go on the inside, on the aerator and aerator pump need the flange to be ground down to the same diameter as the nut, approximately 1 1/2" diameter. This will make for a tighter water-proof seal on the inside. Now take one of your 90deg sch-80 elbows and screw it onto the the piece of sch-80 pipe. Screw on the outer flange and add the rubber washer. Slide this through the hole. Place some aquarium sealant on the inside of the cooler around the base of the pipe. Place the other rubber washer on the pipe. screw on one of your flange nuts with ground down flange. Tighten the nut down sealing the inside of the pipe. Place your Flowrite aerator on the pipe. I used one of their below water aerators but you could use one of the above water ones. I just like the fact that, the below water aerator pushes the water and bubbles directly into the water column. Now you need to drill your other hole 8” to the right and 3 ½” up from the bottom of the outside of the cooler. This will give you space for the thru-hull pump strainer. Add the threaded elbow, that comes with your thru-hull pump to it, making sure that it will point up when the pump is placed into the cooler. Place a rubber washer on the pipe, of your thru-hull pump. Place the pump through the hole in the outside of the cooler. Place some aquarium sealant on the inside of the cooler around the base of the pipe. Add the other rubber washer and the ground down flange nut. Tighten the nut and add your thru-hull pump strainer. Put pipe tape on your 1 ½” sch-80 nipples and add them to your debris strainer. Now this is important. Make sure that the debris strainer openings are placed in the right direction, for proper water flow and filtering. You need to place the 90 deg sch-80 elbow on the water inflow side down to join up with the aerator pump. The other 90 deg sch-80 elbow on the water outflow side needs to be facing up to join with the aerator. Now you need to cut two pieces of hose to place between the aerator pump, debris strainer and aerator. You need to place the hose on these with the stainless hose clamps. Now it is time to mount the Rigrite Aerator Timer in the Project box. You need to drill three 3/8” holes in the project box. One hole goes in the center of one 2” x 3” side. This is for the stem of the Aerator Timer. This will be the top. The other two holes go into the other 2” x 3” side of the project box. This will be the bottom. The bottom holes need to be approximately 1 3/8” apart center to center on the 3” width, of the bottom of the project box. Your wires go through these holes. Place the rubber grommets into these two holes. Now you need to mount the project box to the cooler. Drill two 1/8” holes in the back of the project box. They need to be 1” in from the top and bottom of the center on the 6” side of the project box. Drill two holes to match these in the cooler, wherever you want to mount it. Be careful not to drill all the way through the cooler, just through the outer shell. Place industrial adhesive on plastic screw anchors and press them into the holes. Let dry per directions. Mount project box onto cooler. Mount the Rigrite Aerator timer in the top hole of the project box, per manufacturers instructions. I placed the ground wire from the aerator and the 10ga black wire through the grommet hole on the left. Now slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the two wires. Place the two wires into a female spade connector and solder if needed. Now slide the heat shrink tube over the ends of the wire and heat up. Next place the positive wire from the aerator and the 10ga red wire through the grommet hole on the right. Now slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the 10ga red wire. Solder the 10ga red wire to one end of a in-line fuse holder. Next slide the heat shrink tube over the ends of the wire and heat up. Now slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the other end of the in-line fuse holder. Attach a female spade connector and solder if needed. Next slide the heat shrink tube over the ends of the wire and heat up. Now slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the positive wire from the aerator pump. Solder the positive wire from the aerator to one end of a in-line fuse holder. Next slide the heat shrink tube over the end of the wire and heat up. Now slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the other end of the in-line fuse holder. Attach a female spade connector and solder if needed. Next slide the heat shrink tube over the ends of the wire and heat up. All wiring should be done. Now all we need to do is connect the wires to the Rigrite Aerator timer. The 10ga black wire and ground wire from aerator pump are connected to the ground on the timer. The 10ga red wire and fuse holder are connected to the +12 VDC on the timer. The positive wire from the aerator pump and fuse holder are connected to the OUTPUT on the timer. Are you confused yet? Place fuses in the proper fuse holders. Put the whole mess of wires and fuse holders into the project box and place the lid on it. Connect 12 volt battery clips to proper 10Ga wire and you are ready to go.
    Parts List:
    1-Small tube of industrial adhesive
    1-Water cooler
    1-Rigrite Aerator timer
    2-Radio shack automotive-rainproof in-line fuse holder #270-1234
    1-Debris strainer
    1-Radio shack project enclosure #270-1805 (6”x3”x2”)
    1-Flowrite Powerstream Aerator
    4-Flat rubber washers 2”OD 3/4”ID
    1-Tube aquarium sealant 100% silicone
    1-Roll 10Ga black wire
    1-Roll 10Ga red wire
    2ft of ¾” ID hose
    3-90deg elbows ¾”inside thread with ¾” slip-on jags on other end
    1-Piece 6” sch-80 all-thread nipple
    1-Thru hull pump 500 gph
    1-Pack female spade connectors
    2-Rubber grommets 3/8”ID
    4-All stainless 1” hose clamps
    2-Sch-80 ¾”OD 1 ½” long
    1-Pack 2amp spade fuses
    1-Pack 15amp spade fuses
    1-Set of 12 volt battery clips
    2-Plastic screw anchors
    2-#10 panhead screws ¾”
    1-Roll pipe thread tape
    1-Hole saw 3/4”
    Wire solder
    Soldering gun
    Soldering paste
    Heat shrink tubing
    Man, I hope I didn’t miss anything. I hope this helps someone.
     

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  2. D_Weezy

    D_Weezy Active Member

    Messages:
    526
    State:
    Cadiz, Ohio
    Name:
    Dale
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  3. D_Weezy

    D_Weezy Active Member

    Messages:
    526
    State:
    Cadiz, Ohio
    Name:
    Dale
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  4. D_Weezy

    D_Weezy Active Member

    Messages:
    526
    State:
    Cadiz, Ohio
    Name:
    Dale
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  5. D_Weezy

    D_Weezy Active Member

    Messages:
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    State:
    Cadiz, Ohio
    Name:
    Dale
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  6. D_Weezy

    D_Weezy Active Member

    Messages:
    526
    State:
    Cadiz, Ohio
    Name:
    Dale
    Wow that crap is hard to read.:embarassed:
     
  7. D_Weezy

    D_Weezy Active Member

    Messages:
    526
    State:
    Cadiz, Ohio
    Name:
    Dale
    This may be easier to read.

    I am trying to help some of the people setup a bait tank like mine. I figured it would just be easier to place it in a thread. One of the first things that you should do after buying the water cooler is, have the hardware store thread you some 3/4" cpvc sch-80 nipple into all-thred pipe. I bought a 12" nipple pipe and had them thread both ends in as far as they would go. I ended up with about 5" on each end. This is enough for two. After you get this done and buy all of your parts, you are ready for assembly.

    You will need to drill a hole with your hole saw around the 8 1/2 gallon mark. My cooler has the gallon marks on the inside. This should give you enough room to fit the lid on. The flange nuts that go on the inside, on the aerator and aerator pump need the flange to be ground down to the same diameter as the nut, approximately 1 1/2" diameter. This will make for a tighter water-proof seal on the inside. Now take one of your 90deg sch-80 elbows and screw it onto the the piece of sch-80 pipe. Screw on the outer flange and add the rubber washer.

    Slide this through the hole. Place some aquarium sealant on the inside of the cooler around the base of the pipe. Place the other rubber washer on the pipe. screw on one of your flange nuts with ground down flange. Tighten the nut down sealing the inside of the pipe. Place your Flowrite aerator on the pipe. I used one of their below water aerators but you could use one of the above water ones. I just like the fact that, the below water aerator pushes the water and bubbles directly into the water column.

    Now you need to drill your other hole 8” to the right and 3 ½” up from the bottom of the outside of the cooler. This will give you space for the thru-hull pump strainer. Add the threaded elbow, that comes with your thru-hull pump to it, making sure that it will point up when the pump is placed into the cooler. Place a rubber washer on the pipe, of your thru-hull pump. Place the pump through the hole in the outside of the cooler. Place some aquarium sealant on the inside of the cooler around the base of the pipe. Add the other rubber washer and the ground down flange nut. Tighten the nut and add your thru-hull pump strainer. Put pipe tape on your 1 ½” sch-80 nipples and add them to your debris strainer.

    Now this is important. Make sure that the debris strainer openings are placed in the right direction, for proper water flow and filtering. You need to place the 90 deg sch-80 elbow on the water inflow side down to join up with the aerator pump. The other 90 deg sch-80 elbow on the water outflow side needs to be facing up to join with the aerator. Now you need to cut two pieces of hose to place between the aerator pump, debris strainer and aerator. You need to place the hose on these with the stainless hose clamps.

    Now it is time to mount the Rigrite Aerator Timer in the Project box. You need to drill three 3/8” holes in the project box. One hole goes in the center of one 2” x 3” side. This is for the stem of the Aerator Timer. This will be the top. The other two holes go into the other 2” x 3” side of the project box. This will be the bottom. The bottom holes need to be approximately 1 3/8” appart center to center on the 3” width, of the bottom of the project box. Your wires go through these holes. Place the rubber grommets into these two holes.

    Now you need to mount the project box to the cooler. Drill two 1/8” holes in the back of the project box. They need to be 1” in from the top and bottom of the center on the 6” side of the project box. Drill two holes to match these in the cooler, wherever you want to mount it. Be careful not to drill all the way through the cooler, just through the outer shell. Place industrial adhisive on plastic screw anchors and press them into the holes. Let dry per directions. Mount project box onto cooler.

    Mount the Rigrite Aerator timer in the top hole of the project box, per manufacturers instructions. I placed the ground wire from the aerator and the 10ga black wire throught the grommet hole on the left. Now slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the two wires. Place the two wires into a female spade connector and solder if needed. Now slide the heat shrink tube over the ends of the wire and heat up.

    Next place the positive wire from the aerator and the 10ga red wire through the grommet hole on the right. Now slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the 10ga red wire. Solder the 10ga red wire to one end of a inline fuse holder. Next slide the heat shrink tube over the ends of the wire and heat up. Now slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the other end of the inline fuse holder. Attatch a female spade connector and solder if needed.

    Next slide the heat shrink tube over the ends of the wire and heat up. Now slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the positive wire from the aerator pump. Solder the positive wire from the aerator to one end of a inline fuse holder. Next slide the heat shrink tube over the end of the wire and heat up. Now slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the other end of the inline fuse holder. Attatch a female spade connector and solder if needed.

    Next slide the heat shrink tube over the ends of the wire and heat up. All wiring should be done. Now all we need to do is connect the wires to the Rigrite Aerator timer. The 10ga black wire and ground wire from aerator pump are connected to the ground on the timer. The 10ga red wire and fuse holder are connected to the +12 VDC on the timer. The positive wire from the areator pump and fuse holder are connected to the OUTPUT on the timer. Are you confused yet? Place fuses in the proper fuse holders. Put the whole mess of wires and fuse holders into the project box and place the lid on it. Connect 12 volt battery clips to proper 10Ga wire and you are ready to go.

    Parts List:
    1-Small tube of industrial adhesive
    1-Water cooler
    1-Rigrite Aerator timer
    2-Radioshack automotive-rainproof inline fuse holder #270-1234
    1-Debris strainer
    1-Radioshack project enclosure #270-1805 (6”x3”x2”)
    1-Flowrite Powerstream Aerator
    4-Flat rubber washers 2”OD 3/4”ID
    1-Tube aquarium sealant 100% silicone
    1-Roll 10Ga black wire
    1-Roll 10Ga red wire
    2ft of ¾” ID hose
    3-90deg elbows ¾”inside thread with ¾” slip-on jags on other end
    1-Piece 6” sch-80 all-thread nipple
    1-Thru hull pump 500 gph
    1-Pack female spade connectors
    2-Rubber grommets 3/8”ID
    4-All stainless 1” hose clamps
    2-Sch-80 ¾”OD 1 ½” long
    1-Pack 2amp spade fuses
    1-Pack 15amp spade fuses
    1-Set of 12 volt battery clips
    2-Plastic screw anchors
    2-#10 panhead screws ¾”
    1-Roll pipe thread tape
    1-Hole saw 3/4”
    Wire solder
    Soldering gun
    Soldering paste
    Heat shrink tubing

    Man, I hope I didn’t miss anything. I hope this helps you.
     
  8. Flamekeeper

    Flamekeeper New Member

    Messages:
    2,314
    State:
    Louisville, Ken
    Thanks Bro,for the answering my request for building imformation list, on this bait tank project. You are the man!!:cool2:, One more question for you.



    Do these(3)BOLDED items have a certain parts #?

    1-Rigrite Aerator timer

    2-Radioshack automotive-rainproof inline fuse holder #270-1234

    1-Debris strainer

    1-Radioshack project enclosure #270-1805 (6”x3”x2”)

    1-Flowrite Power stream Aerator

    Thanks again I just want to make sure I have everything right. Kenny:wink:
     
  9. D_Weezy

    D_Weezy Active Member

    Messages:
    526
    State:
    Cadiz, Ohio
    Name:
    Dale
  10. D_Weezy

    D_Weezy Active Member

    Messages:
    526
    State:
    Cadiz, Ohio
    Name:
    Dale
    I am getting the parts together, to build one from a 5 gallon water cooler. This will work a lot better in my little 12ft aluminum boat, for crappie minnows. Should give me about 4 1/4 gallons of water. This one will have an above water line aerator. Should do nicely in my small boat.
     
  11. Telly

    Telly Guest

    Nice bait rig you made yourself there D. I like it. How much would you charge to build one just like that for me? You may have stumbled on a new profession for yourself, building bait tanks.

    Compared to any popular ready-made store bought shad tanks a few questions please about your parts costs and time finding and chasing down these parts and assembly time:

    1. How much did you pay have to pay for all these parts for your rig?

    2. How many hours did you spend finding parts and miles driving to pick up all these parts?

    3. How much time did you spend putting all these parts together to finish your tank?

    Is it cheaper to build this bait tank of buy a ready made shad tank?

    Thank you so much for these tank details.
     
  12. D_Weezy

    D_Weezy Active Member

    Messages:
    526
    State:
    Cadiz, Ohio
    Name:
    Dale
    I will have to set down and figure out the total cost. With all of the parts, it would not take you more than two days to build. The few things, that I did not buy within a couple miles of my home, were ordered on the Internet. I looked and found tanks in this size from $70.00-$199.00. They were not insulated. That was one of my main requirements. Otherwise I would have just bought a small trash can.