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Pro Cat 240 and rough water question

16K views 21 replies 14 participants last post by  wadekaminski 
#1 ·
i was wondering how well it handled (and fished) in rough water. Like Lake of the Ozarks or Stockton on a windy day rough!

Looking to maybe purchase one of these but my only concern really is can I keep it off the bottom of the lake. Take the family out and feel secure etc. As we all know Missouri’s big reservoirs can get really rough.

Thanks in advance
 
#3 ·
Grew up on near Stockton and have been on Truman many times would rather be on those lakes in rough water with my Seaark 2072 than any bass boat. We were on Oologah one day with 5 ft swells trying to get jugs out. It was rough and wet, worried about my brother getting knocked or falling out of boat, but never about swamping the boat. They ride higher in the water than a fiberglass boat.
 
#5 ·
I don't want to be "that guy" and don't own a Pro Cat but I've was told a couple of years ago that 7 Pro Cats had been swamped from the transom on Wheeler Lake alone, by wind/waves. They then put the transom splash guard as standard on some models, optional on others. Rumor (again I can't verify) was that they were designing a taller transom for the Pro Cats and reinforcing the front structure due to large warranty claims from cracking on their jet boats - mainly in Alaska. Last year Sea Ark company sold to Correct Craft of Florida and I lost my insider info.

That said I know a lot of folks that are very happy with them. Also they have an excellent resale value.

Since you were asking about big water I thought you might want to investigate a bit.
 
#11 ·
Benji has a 200 and all these boats you are hearing about with rear swamping problems are caused by dragging socks. An operator problem not a boat problem.
 
#12 ·
Well i hate to say it but a few years back on Tawakoni when the wind was 30+ a certain person i know had a pro cat and stated it would be fine in the big waves....We chose not to fish that day and just watched waves were 4-6 ft hitting the bottom of the bridge...Well they launched ( in a protected cove) came out guns blazing:sneaky: turned the corner straight into the waves....the 1st wave came over....then the 2nd.....on the 3rd it was full and going down......they lost everything......... I love the procat series but guy's any boat will sink and some days ya just need to stay at the house.....Lets live to fish another day!!:love:
 
#13 ·
Like Big Sam said but in different words. You got to know your limitations. The real question is not how big of a wave can my boat take, the real question is "should I put myself and gear in jeopardy when I really should't be out". The wager value quadruples in winter's cold water.
 
#17 ·
I really didn't want to post a reply but I feel I must... rough water on a swift moving river verses a lake is apples and oranges. I fished the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers out of a 16' Bass Tracker for almost 3 years before I bought my Seaark. I never felt uncomfortable against any barge wake.

Dragging a large (or 2 large) drift socks with 4 foot+ rollers at your stern out on a lake is a different animal. I've only fished wheeler lake twice and 2 years ago it was miserable with wind/rollers but I never felt uncomfortable there either. The key is to keep the trolling motor in the water and pulling you. The danger comes when you kill the trolling motor... no different than if you let off the big motor quickly and take your own wake over the stern.

I have a 20' Vcat... the transom is fully inclosed (2017+ Procat's are a bit different but still inclosed) and even if a wave/wake comes over most of the water rolls right off the back.

It all boils down to knowing your and your boats limitations. If I were to jump in a racecar I'd probably put It into the wall pretty quick... why? Because I don't drive one. My boat on the other hand is a different story. I spend 100+ days on the water in it.

Buy what you can afford and go fishing!
 
#18 ·
So many things come to play here there is no specific answer. Some basics that most boat owners know but some newbies may not can be really important.

Things to think about are:

Most waves coming into the nose of a boat lift the boat up and lowers it once the wave has passed. That is because the nose of most boats are the lightest part of the boat. Also because the design of most boat noses are such that the front is curved under, helping a wave go under and lift the boat. The main problem here can arise when the waves are separated just enough that the nose is angled down when the next wave gets there causing it to come over the top of the nose. I generally find it better to approach a wave at a 45 degree angle. That will still allow the nose to come up over the wave but will also usually allow the boat to come up and over the wave and stabilize before the next wave gets there. In essence making the waves seem farther apart.

An important note is that this can best be done when the boat is under power either with the gas motor or the trolling motor.

Often the worst case scenario is when the motor quits and the boat turns so the waves are hitting the transom. It is often the lowest part of the boat in the water because of the weight of the motor and is flat. That is the most likely place to get water coming over the side of the boat and it can swamp a boat quickly.

If you are out when the waves get big, and for some reason, the motor quits, the best thing I think you can do is to keep the nose pointed into the waves any way you can. The waves are most often caused by the wind so a drift sock off of a front cleat would be best. Keep in mind it is best to have the wind sock a good distance from the boat. If you tie the wind sock rope short, it will not let the nose of the boat rise to get over a wave as quickly as it could if the sock was a distance away. If you don't have a drift sock, a bucked in place of a drift sock may work. Use what ever you can to keep the waves coming into the nose of the craft.

Of course it is best not to be on the water when conditions are that bad but sudden storms do happen with short notice. Planning ahead can be the difference between being safe and not being safe. Sometimes getting back to the car is not the best choice. Just get to the bank. Often a cove or creek will provide protection also.

Others may have different or even better ideas about staying afloat in rough water. I hope they will comment on their thoughts. A good thread about this subject is a good idea.

Keep an eye out for others that may be in trouble on the water. It is a terrible feeling to be broke down on the water.

Be safe
 
#19 ·
I honestly don't know how well the Pro Cat will/would handle rough water as I have never been on the water in one. I do know I have been on Rend Lake, a very shallow flat lake that starts white capping in light wind and the Smithland Pool of the Ohio River during rough water conditions in my G3 1860 without incident. I have been lusting after a Pro Cat and looked over every one I have been around ever since I first saw one while attending a sport show in St. Louis several years ago. I have not seen anything that would indicate to me it would not be as good or better than my G3. Barring an unforeseen finical windfall I will likely finish out my fishing days in the G3 but will continue to daydream about the Pro Cat.
 
#22 ·
Driving, fishing, parked on the bank in rough water are all completely different scenarios. This is why I really didn't want to post a reply and get dragged into this.

Any boat can be swamped just like any competent operator can fish in almost any water condition.

Know your equipment, know your skill level, get off the couch and go fishing. The internet is great but time on the water is the only real teacher.
 
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