Truck Burning Oil like CRAZY

[mavmannate]

If it blows a cloud of blue smoke when you first start it it's possibly valve guides. Check your valve covers for leaks too. Sometimes those bolts get loose. Don't over tighten or you will smash the gaskets. You might want to take it somewhere secretly and get a compression test. If oil is flooding a cylinder it will foul a spark plug. If it backfires a lot that's a sign it has an ignition problem. Lift your hood in the dark and start it. watch for sparks jumping around like I told you before. That won't fix the oil problem but it might point fingers at the loss of power.

I just went out and checked for sparks. Nothing. Watched it for about 3 mins. None.

Tomorrow morning I'll be pulling the plugs to check them.

2 weeks ago we though the passenger side valve cover was leaking so we resealed it and still though it was. so we got new gaskets, the kinds that dont require sealer. They are tightened down firm, but not enough to squeeze those gaskets or twist them.

Not to mention, last summer I replaced the oil lines from the oil filter to the motor. It was like 80 bucks but its still in perfect shape.

[mavmannate]

cracked head or burned head gasket between cyinders can also cause this effect as you originally stated, have you checked your oil for creamy white residue after driving or see/smell and coolant in the oil? Again pull your spark plugs, if two of them next to each other are trashed and the rest are good then you found where the gasket is ruined or head cracked. I would be asking the father in law for help if possible if I was you!

Last time I changed the oil there wasnt anything abnormal that either of us saw. Now, when I open the cap to put oil in it, the inside of that tube has white residue.

Thanks!

[psychomekanik]

The problem your having actually sounds like more than one concern. First the lack of power. The lack of oil pressure is another concern. For a second let's think out of the box. I try to decipher what a customer is telling me, investigate, and determine the problem with the vehicle. I had a guy bring me a car this week complaining of a misfire. After a while of looking at it, probing for more information, and test driving it. I got to the bottom of his concern. He had warped rotors! LOL. He was confusing the vibration while braking for an engine miss. To be a successful technician, not only do you have to be an electronics expert, a plumber, and sometimes a welder and so on, but you have to have a little detective in you. Here's a case scenario for you. What if it had a driveability concern? (IE: a sensor, plugged exhaust, etc,) And the engine simply doesn't run right. The engine bogs down to a super low r.p.m. The oil pressure will show extremely low. That's not a problem with the oiling system, It's just not running fast enough to pump up any pressure. And what if you had an oil leak that you overlooked. Like an oil pressure sender (guage sensor) They have a habit of leaking and trailing down the sensor and away from the block, and dripping to the ground without making much of a mess on the engine itself. They only leak when the engine is running, so you wont have much oil in your driveway or garage. So now you think that you have low oil pressure, and using oil. I would lift it up, and start it. Look CAREFULLY for oil leaks with it running. None found? Now pull the plugs. If it's burning it, you'll see it on them. I would VERIFY that it is actually burning oil, and actually had low oil pressure before you condemn it. Wouldn't it suck if you gave up and sold it, The next guy buys it, fixes a leaky oil pressure sender ($15.00) and installs a fuel filter ($15.00) and it totally fixes all of the problems? My suggestion would be to work at the problems one at a time. Starting with the driveability issue. Retrieve codes, and write them down. Clear them. Road test, and duplicate the concern several times. Retrieve codes again. What codes returned. You don't need a scanner to retrieve codes on this model. Jumper the 2 pins in the connector (pic attached) turn the ignition on, and they will prove out as follows. it will flash once-pause- then twice. (12) indicating field service mode. It will flash code 12 three times and then a long pause. If there's any more codes it will flash them next. it always flashes a code 3 times, then moves on to the next one. it will flash 12 again and start the cycle over again until you exit field service mode. Write them down and turn the ignition off and remove the jumper wire or paper clip. Now disconnect the battery for a couple minutes, and drive it again. recheck for codes. If any return, post them here or follow diagnostic routines per the code.

[psychomekanik]

I forgot to add the pic..

[Ecfool]

very good advice from Mark listen to it and learn.
One thing I would add is while you have the plugs all out do a compression test or better yet if you have equipment a cylinder leak down test, if it is using oil you can pinpoint down from where by listening to where you hear most air escaping IE: if it is mostly from dip stick tube more that likely a bad ring or piston scuffed from improper clearance when rebored, if from mainly valve cover breather most likely culprit would be valve guides. also listen to exhaust pipe and down intake.
Remember when diagnoising problems with vehcile DONT forget basics, visual,compression and if Check engine light on check for codes. As Mark said a little detective work by really thinking exactily what and when does problem occure helps a bunch in diagnoising and repairing problems. Throwing a bunch of parts at a problem cause a friend of a friend said had same problem on 1911 Hupmobile fixed it gets expensive on cars today.

[Dougg]

x

[Phil Washburn]

you did it yourself? something broke. if you don't know what you are doing, DON'T do it....go to oreillys, buy a long block, pay the extra $100 for a 3 year warranty and drive the thing

REMOVE THESE ADS
BECOME A LEVEL 2

[mavmannate]

The problem your having actually sounds like more than one concern. First the lack of power. The lack of oil pressure is another concern. For a second let's think out of the box. I try to decipher what a customer is telling me, investigate, and determine the problem with the vehicle. I had a guy bring me a car this week complaining of a misfire. After a while of looking at it, probing for more information, and test driving it. I got to the bottom of his concern. He had warped rotors! LOL. He was confusing the vibration while braking for an engine miss. To be a successful technician, not only do you have to be an electronics expert, a plumber, and sometimes a welder and so on, but you have to have a little detective in you. Here's a case scenario for you. What if it had a driveability concern? (IE: a sensor, plugged exhaust, etc,) And the engine simply doesn't run right. The engine bogs down to a super low r.p.m. The oil pressure will show extremely low. That's not a problem with the oiling system, It's just not running fast enough to pump up any pressure. And what if you had an oil leak that you overlooked. Like an oil pressure sender (guage sensor) They have a habit of leaking and trailing down the sensor and away from the block, and dripping to the ground without making much of a mess on the engine itself. They only leak when the engine is running, so you wont have much oil in your driveway or garage. So now you think that you have low oil pressure, and using oil. I would lift it up, and start it. Look CAREFULLY for oil leaks with it running. None found? Now pull the plugs. If it's burning it, you'll see it on them. I would VERIFY that it is actually burning oil, and actually had low oil pressure before you condemn it. Wouldn't it suck if you gave up and sold it, The next guy buys it, fixes a leaky oil pressure sender ($15.00) and installs a fuel filter ($15.00) and it totally fixes all of the problems? My suggestion would be to work at the problems one at a time. Starting with the driveability issue. Retrieve codes, and write them down. Clear them. Road test, and duplicate the concern several times. Retrieve codes again. What codes returned. You don't need a scanner to retrieve codes on this model. Jumper the 2 pins in the connector (pic attached) turn the ignition on, and they will prove out as follows. it will flash once-pause- then twice. (12) indicating field service mode. It will flash code 12 three times and then a long pause. If there's any more codes it will flash them next. it always flashes a code 3 times, then moves on to the next one. it will flash 12 again and start the cycle over again until you exit field service mode. Write them down and turn the ignition off and remove the jumper wire or paper clip. Now disconnect the battery for a couple minutes, and drive it again. recheck for codes. If any return, post them here or follow diagnostic routines per the code.

Ok, so I had a long day dealing with some stuff and didnt get a chance to look at anything. But the good thing is he has a code reader. Im gonna check all of this out tomorrow in his garage in which he has a woodburning stove. (its in the low 20s-40s today and tomorrow)...

I'll let you know what comes of all this.

[Gary S.]

BUMP.........Any updates?

[catfish_hunter01]

CRUDE OIL PRICE: Oil | Energy | Petroleum | Oil Price | Crude Oil Charts | Oil Price Forecast